12 sec car.. also streetable

[jrm81bu]

It's my personal opinion that you shouldn't stroke certain motors, the 350 is one of them. Now that's totally my opinion, there's probably millions of people that would disagree. Those 383's are proven to make a lot of power but it's a compromise. There's the custom piston long rod style I have doubt about the reliability of these, I'm sure it's fine for a race motor that see's lots of revs but not a lot of hours/miles. And then there's the short rod stock piston style that don't rev that great, but use mostly off the shelf parts. And then with these you also have to take into account rod angularity which puts lots of side loading on your pistons and wear them out faster. Neither sounds all that good to me, I'd just go with a stout stock stroke bottom end in either a stock 350 or 400, either will be able to make enough power to put you into the 12's reliably, with the right bolt on parts, plus cam, compression, and head choice.

It's kinda funny that you would go with a stock 400 bottom end, but then blast a 383 with a 5.7 rod for having a bad rod/stroke ratio. The stock 400 is worse. Any of these combos work great for a daily driver.

 

[87MC_SS]

oKAY question.. Can someone give me an estimate of how much I would spend to rear mount a turbo with a rebuilt 305 in my 87 MC SS, I can get a T3 for 80bucks off a bud who pulled it form his race motor. And as for the pipes I can go to a exhaust shop with the turbo and have him bend all the pipes... I choose rear mount because I want to pop the hood and hav it appear to b stock. An oil pump and tap into the oil pan.... sounds simple

 

[kornball426]

87MC_SS, What's the turbo off of?

Huh... I thought the 400 used the same 5.7 rod as a 350 and you had to use the shorter rod in a 350 block if you wanted to use standard 350 pistons. My bad... I got it backwards I take it back in that case I'd definitely go with a 383 5.7 rod, or 6 inch over a 400 bottom end just because of the fact you get better cooling and thicker cylinder walls in the 350. Still I just don't like the idea of stroker SBC's. My brother had a 383 long rod (6.0 inch, custom piston) in an Iroc that ran like a scalded dog, but it also blew itself to pieces in no time. Could have been shoddy building, cheap kit (I think it was Eagle cast steel crank, and forged rods so I don't think that was it) or machining... But it left an impression on me. So yeah they're probably fine, let me change my stance to "I wouldn't build one" because I had a bad experience with one. :lol:

I guess... What you're saying about turbo's make sense. My truck will brake the tires loose before it ever makes full boost trying to foot brake it... Transbrake might be able to do it though. And other than turbo diesels which everyone I ever drove was an auto, all turbo cars I've been in or driven was a stick. So maybe you're right.

 

[87MC_SS]

87MC_SS, What's the turbo off of?

Huh... I thought the 400 used the same 5.7 rod as a 350 and you had to use the shorter rod in a 350 block if you wanted to use standard 350 pistons. My bad... I got it backwards I take it back in that case I'd definitely go with a 383 5.7 rod, or 6 inch over a 400 bottom end just because of the fact you get better cooling and thicker cylinder walls in the 350. Still I just don't like the idea of stroker SBC's. My brother had a 383 long rod (6.0 inch, custom piston) in an Iroc that ran like a scalded dog, but it also blew itself to pieces in no time. Could have been shoddy building, cheap kit (I think it was Eagle cast steel crank, and forged rods so I don't think that was it) or machining... But it left an impression on me. So yeah they're probably fine, let me change my stance to "I wouldn't build one" because I had a bad experience with one. :lol:

I guess... What you're saying about turbo's make sense. My truck will brake the tires loose before it ever makes full boost trying to foot brake it... Transbrake might be able to do it though. And other than turbo diesels which everyone I ever drove was an auto, all turbo cars I've been in or driven was a stick. So maybe you're right.

originally idk but it recently came off his 79malibu drag car

 

[stomis]

A t3 seems a little small for a v8 but then against rear mounts following different principals. IMO dont waste your time.

 

[kornball426]

That's what I was thinking... T3's are a common DSM/mitsubishi 4G63 turbo other than the "big" 16G turbo. Probably too small, but T3's come in different sizes there might be one that's good for a V8.... Especially a stock 305.

One way to pick your basic turbo is to Multiply your displacement X desired RPM for peak power, then divide by 3456, then multiply by .85(85% efficiency) that should give you a very close estimate of the flow needed to make the peak amount of power for the displacement and RPM's you intend the run the engine at. Then it's a matter of figuring out what turbine wheel sizes you need to meet that specific goal. Or at least that's the formula given to me by my tuner friends.

the "Turbo Stangs" forum is very informative about this sort of thing. There are guys there that know everything about putting a turbo on a V8... Even if it is a Ford 302 not a Chevy 305. :wink:

 

[stomis]

Well your correct to a point. T3 is the size of the housing. There are all different size turbines on both sides which will determine your RPM range, boost efficiency, etc.

From the little I read about turbos you want to pick your housing size based on needed flow and your trim based on rpm range.

 

[kornball426]

I don't know enough about turbo's to try to explain how it works, so I'll take your word for it...

 

[78PanelExpress]

Replace the rear is #1 on my list. Starting with the 400 small block, I would go with a 2 bolt main 400, a Summit "house" hydrolic cam, around 535 lift, 301 duration, a set of cheap generic full length headers, and (this is key) weld pipe making the collector tube at least 24" longer with the 3" piping to allow THRUST which greatly improves low end torque, exhaust is SO important! At least 4.56 gears, invest in a converter able to pull off at least 3100 launch RPM, run a colder plug with around 0.47 gap, bump up the timing a bit,....it really does not take allot of mullah to get a G into the high 12's. You don't need fancy aftermarket heads either!!! The cubes and rear are the ticket.