12 sec car.. also streetable

[larryo454]

Hi the 377 is a 30over 400 and a 60 over 400 is 383 with the 3.48 crank. The 377 like we know is big piston and shot stroke with the 5.7 or 6 long rod. And u don't have to clearance the block for rods or the rods for the cam.with the long rods you get a slower piston speed so the flame don't get weak on top of the piston. because the piston don't travel down as the 400 stock rod with a 5.565 rod length.The big bore likes lots of Duration @.050 like 250 and up with a good head for flow and ext. A friend of my has 377 and it pulls like a BBC something like my 461BBC BUT he is using a solid roller cam in the 377. The cam is like .630int and .630ext dur 264/270 @.050 good for 7200RPM. And we use them on the street all the time but not for the highway but yes it is streetable not for long halls on the highways

 

[stomis]

Hi the 377 is a 30over 400 and a 60 over 400 is 383 with the 3.48 crank. The 377 like we know is big piston and shot stroke with the 5.7 or 6 long rod. And u don't have to clearance the block for rods or the rods for the cam.with the long rods you get a slower piston speed so the flame don't get weak on top of the piston. because the piston don't travel down as the 400 stock rod with a 5.565 rod length.The big bore likes lots of Duration @.050 like 250 and up with a good head for flow and ext. A friend of my has 377 and it pulls like a BBC something like my 461BBC BUT he is using a solid roller cam in the 377. The cam is like .630int and .630ext dur 264/270 @.050 good for 7200RPM. And we use them on the street all the time but not for the highway but yes it is streetable not for long halls on the highways

See the idea of a 377 to me is RPMs. RPMs=big cams. Big cams=solid lifters. Solid lifters=no street friendly.


I'm looking into the 350 to 396 stroker thats all stroke right now. Think my next build will wind up being a 383 though because I've been highly advised to not use a 400 block by alot of people.

 

[Phoenyx]

You can forget the 305 idea. Its not happening and especially for $4000. Just get some vortecs for the 400,.

400ci SBC : Said you already had it.
906 or 062 vortecs : $150-$200 watch CL
Machine work for heads, cut spring guides for lift, valve job : $200-$500
Cam : $150
Roller Rockers : $150-250
Edelbrock Airgap : $240
750 summit carb: $250
MSD Streetfire HEI : $125

That motor has been built a few time in magazines. Advertised numbers are something like 425hp and 475 ft/lbs.

As fa as the trans goes no the 700 wasnt "made for trucks" but it does appear that way with its terrible gear spread and not very high OD. Stick with the 200, pull the trans yourself and get a 500hp/500ftlbs master overhaul kit from CKperformance. Its like $350 bucks and any good transmission guy should rebuild that trans with your supplied parts for no more than $300.

So now your at around $2200ish. You should be able to find a GN or 442 8.5 in rear for $500-$800. And wahlah you have a mid 12s car that came in at around $3000 in parts.

I agree with this 100%. This is your best option.

But I have to say one thing, I wish we had a good transmission shop like that here. The only one we have charges over $2000 to rebuild a TH350. That's me dropping off the trans, and him rebuilding it with a new converter, unreal.

 

[larryo454]

WOW $2000 for a th350 for a rebuild and the full overhaul is only $100 to $150 to my door in Newfoundland.But it know Alberta and its ways i work up north in Fort Mc murray and i know the shop rates. The th350 is a easy build tho u need to try it and put a stock converter in if you don't think that you have it right. there is lots of info on how to rebuild the th350 even with pics and step by step with mods.O and what kind of converter did u get with the build.

 

[Phoenyx]

WOW $2000 for a th350 for a rebuild and the full overhaul is only $100 to $150 to my door in Newfoundland.But it know Alberta and its ways i work up north in Fort Mc murray and i know the shop rates. The th350 is a easy build tho u need to try it and put a stock converter in if you don't think that you have it right. there is lots of info on how to rebuild the th350 even with pics and step by step with mods.O and what kind of converter did u get with the build.

Yeah, well this is also the place that ripped me off and charged me $260 to put in a new set of speedo gears. But they're the only transmission shop in the book. I would try to do it myself (I've done shift kits, this would be my first transmission rebuild) if I had a garage. And I never even wanted to get it rebuilt, I was just asking about getting a shift kit installed. But he actually refused me unless I had him rebuild it. He is known for ripping people off, but I didn't know it at the time.

 

[larryo454]

WOW $2000 for a th350 for a rebuild and the full overhaul is only $100 to $150 to my door in Newfoundland.But it know Alberta and its ways i work up north in Fort Mc murray and i know the shop rates. The th350 is a easy build tho u need to try it and put a stock converter in if you don't think that you have it right. there is lots of info on how to rebuild the th350 even with pics and step by step with mods.O and what kind of converter did u get with the build.

Yeah, well this is also the place that ripped me off and charged me $260 to put in a new set of speedo gears. But they're the only transmission shop in the book. I would try to do it myself (I've done shift kits, this would be my first transmission rebuild) if I had a garage. And I never even wanted to get it rebuilt, I was just asking about getting a shift kit installed. But he actually refused me unless I had him rebuild it. He is known for ripping people off, but I didn't know it at the time.

Yeah that nuts pal what others do to others.All u need todo is look up th350 mods on the net and you might be surprise on how much info there is. like the 700r4 and the 4l60 1st gear can fit in the th350 with a 3.04 gear ratio vs 2.56 gear is stock.This make for a tire burner or hard lunch it makes your 3.08 feel like 3.73 off the line and 3.73s like 4.56s lol

 

[ALaRock]

I was looking at 468 small blocks today. $5000 for a ready to go short block all forged and to the 9s. I would love to have that but to me doing a home brew turbo setup is way more economical to get a car into the low 10s that something like that.

A 454 or 468ci small block with 195 AFRs and a 530 lift roller cam would be a wicked 10 second car you could DD every day though...

This combination would never be a daily driver. First off you would need one hell of a transmission to hold up to that car and i am guessing you are running a 8.5 10 bolt which would never hold up to this engine. I think you need a bigger piggy bank. No offense man and nit trying to be a dick just giving my honest opinion. :lol:

For getting into the 12's the 400 would be a good start with a decent pair of port and polished aluminum heads with a decent cam maybe a 500 lift or slightly bigger comp and a small shot of nitrous and you could be in the 12's. Why didn't anyone suggest going to a turbo 350? with a rebuilt turbo 350 and a good stall with a different crossmember he could have something that would hold up to the power over investing more money into a 200r or 700. Maybe upgrade to a 8.5 or ford 9" With the money you could be saving and you would deffinitely want a posi and some 390 gears. Maybe 373 whatever your preference is. 😀

 

[stomis]

I was looking at 468 small blocks today. $5000 for a ready to go short block all forged and to the 9s. I would love to have that but to me doing a home brew turbo setup is way more economical to get a car into the low 10s that something like that.

A 454 or 468ci small block with 195 AFRs and a 530 lift roller cam would be a wicked 10 second car you could DD every day though...

This combination would never be a daily driver. First off you would need one hell of a transmission to hold up to that car and i am guessing you are running a 8.5 10 bolt which would never hold up to this engine. I think you need a bigger piggy bank. No offense man and nit trying to be a dick just giving my honest opinion. :lol:

For getting into the 12's the 400 would be a good start with a decent pair of port and polished aluminum heads with a decent cam maybe a 500 lift or slightly bigger comp and a small shot of nitrous and you could be in the 12's. Why didn't anyone suggest going to a turbo 350? with a rebuilt turbo 350 and a good stall with a different crossmember he could have something that would hold up to the power over investing more money into a 200r or 700. Maybe upgrade to a 8.5 or ford 9" With the money you could be saving and you would deffinitely want a posi and some 390 gears. Maybe 373 whatever your preference is. 😀

How do you figure that car could never be a DD? Its huge cams with loads of overlap, high rpms power bands, and huge stall converters that make cars non daily driveable.

A .530 lift roller cam isnt very big in a 355 let alone a 454 or 468. Hell I doubt youd even know it was there! The only thing left to make that car un-streetworthy is the power band and stall converter and being small cammed that setup depending on gears would more than likely only want like 3000-3200 stall since it would have a power band coming on at 2000rpms and thats more than daily drivable.

That being said the $5000 thing is only the short block. Still need $1400 for heads, $250 for an intake, $350 for a good ignition setup, an $800 built trans, $600 for a good cam, and the 8.5 with c clip eliminators, moser axles, and a detroit locker would have no problem standing up to a 10second car. Guys do it all the time in GNs and Typhoons.

 

[dogsht]

Lots of ways to skin a cat and lots of opinions on which they prefer based on what experience an individual has. Street car to me post 1950 means that it can handle the highway also since well highways are everywhere. For a real lets say daily driver capable car even though you don't plan to use it as your main daily driver car idealy means broad torque curve for a heavy car (relative to race car) is better, and power in the rpm range you drive it in. RPM stands for ruins peoples motors in a real street car. A higher maintenence spin the snot out of it to get into the power band with balanced lightweigh components & big stall converter does not spell budget or even fun driver to me. Maybe a fun ride but not a fun driver.

Stomis post made good sense but I have to disagree on the big block part as they can be sensable for these goals in a gbody even relatively fuel efficient as long as a secondary consideration. Maybe not for the thread starter as he already has 383/400sbc and no big block. But for the readers three good examples come to mind;

Dwight's 84 Cutty 12.04@112mph, 20 mpg hwy, pump gas, no power adder, overdrive trans, higher stall but lockup converter, 800 Q-jet, 455 Olds http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1381227

Bob's 86 Cutty 12.3@110mph, 15.5 hwy, pumpgas no power adder, 200-4R, higher stall lockup, 800 Q-jet, 455 Olds http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com and both of mine listed in my signature and seen in my pics.

 

[stomis]

Lots of ways to skin a cat and lots of opinions on which they prefer based on what experience an individual has. Street car to me post 1950 means that it can handle the highway also since well highways are everywhere. For a real lets say daily driver capable car even though you don't plan to use it as your main daily driver car idealy means broad torque curve for a heavy car (relative to race car) is better and power in the rpm range you drive it in. RPM stands for ruins peoples motors in a daily driver capable street car. A higher maintenence spin the snot out of it to get into the power band with balanced lightweigh components & big stall converter does not spell budget or even fun driver to me. Maybe a fun ride but not a fun driver.

Stomis post made good sense but I have to disagree on the big block part as they can be sensable for these goals in a gbody even relatively fuel efficient as long as a secondary consideration. Maybe not for the thread starter as he already has 383/400sbc and no big block. But for the readers three good examples come to mind;

Dwight's 84 Cutty 12.04@112mph, 20 mpg hwy, pump gas no power adder, overdrive trans, higher stall but lockup converter, 800 Q-jet, 455 Olds http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1381227

Bob's 86 Cutty 12.3@110mph, 15.5 hwy, pumpgas no power adder, 200-4R, higher stall lockup, 800 Q-jet, 455 Olds http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com and both of mine listed in my signature and seen in my pics.

I never said anything about big blocks. I was only day dreaming about big cube small blocks 😀