12 sec car.. also streetable

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The 200 Vs the 700, the 700 will cost more. In my opinion it's well worth it in the long run, but if budget is an issue, deff stick to the 200. Getting the proper TV cable/ bracket , a double hump after market cross-member, cut down or pickup a new driveshaft, After it's all said and done you could have up to 1000$ in accessories just to fit it in your car. I bought ALL of my parts through PATC ( http://www.transmissioncenter.org/). I spent about 1600$ on parts, but that's because i went wayyy over the top with it.
 
CamaroAdam73 said:
The 200 Vs the 700, the 700 will cost more. In my opinion it's well worth it in the long run, but if budget is an issue, deff stick to the 200. Getting the proper TV cable/ bracket , a double hump after market cross-member, cut down or pickup a new driveshaft, After it's all said and done you could have up to 1000$ in accessories just to fit it in your car. I bought ALL of my parts through PATC ( http://www.transmissioncenter.org/). I spent about 1600$ on parts, but that's because i went wayyy over the top with it.

Personally I think the 200 is an all around better trans for a car. The OP is right in the sense that the 700 is a truck transmission in regards to the lower overdrive and lower first gear. The trans is great for moving a heavy truck down the road with big tires but in a car I just think the 200 is a much better fit.
 
I understand the first gear differences, but overdrive too, really? There is only a .03 difference in overdrive between the transmissions, not enough to worry about. If you already have the 2004r then bouild it and run it, if not go with the easier one to find.
 
jrm81bu said:
I understand the first gear differences, but overdrive too, really? There is only a .03 difference in overdrive between the transmissions, not enough to worry about. If you already have the 2004r then bouild it and run it, if not go with the easier one to find.


For some reason i thought it was .67 vs .75
 
thanks for all th good inpu guys! I Appreciate it... So what can you guys tell me if I was to use a 350 insteD of the 400?
 
87MC_SS said:
thanks for all th good inpu guys! I Appreciate it... So what can you guys tell me if I was to use a 350 insteD of the 400?

Well all the numbers I gave were based on a 400 SB. 50ci is basically 12% of your engine size therefor in a perfect world you could expect roughly 12% less power but I'm gonna say not that much in the real world. That plus more cubes makes for a tamer motor and better street manners.
 
stomis said:
That plus more cubes makes for a tamer motor and better street manners.

That's why I like messing around with big blocks. I know small blocks can make gobs of power and work great but the nice thing about a big block is you can typically make the same amount of power without it being as radical.
Like the old saying goes, "There's no replacement for discplacement". 😀
 
FE3X CLONE said:
stomis said:
That plus more cubes makes for a tamer motor and better street manners.

That's why I like messing around with big blocks. I know small blocks can make gobs of power and work great but the nice thing about a big block is you can typically make the same amount of power without it being as radical.
Like the old saying goes, "There's no replacement for discplacement". 😀


The only replacement for displacement is RPMs or Forced induction 😀


The reason I have no plans to go to a big block is because of fuel mileage. At least with a small block car you can still squeek out 15mph give or take.

I was looking at 468 small blocks today. $5000 for a ready to go short block all forged and to the 9s. I would love to have that but to me doing a home brew turbo setup is way more economical to get a car into the low 10s that something like that.

A 454 or 468ci small block with 195 AFRs and a 530 lift roller cam would be a wicked 10 second car you could DD every day though...
 
Those super high c.i. small blocks are insane!!! But anyways, someone mentioned a 377... that's a a 400 with a 350 crank, right? What if it were bored .030 over? Would that be a 383 minus without the longer stroke? Also, I don't think anyone mentioned making the 406 into a 421 stroker? You'd probably spend the same on stroking the 350 and the machine work is all ready done on the 400. That'd be preetty beast!!!
 
85montemj said:
Those super high c.i. small blocks are insane!!! But anyways, someone mentioned a 377... that's a a 400 with a 350 crank, right? What if it were bored .030 over? Would that be a 383 minus without the longer stroke? Also, I don't think anyone mentioned making the 406 into a 421 stroker? You'd probably spend the same on stroking the 350 and the machine work is all ready done on the 400. That'd be preetty beast!!!

420/421 is iffy. Lots of guys will tell you that for a street driven long distance vehicle not to stroke a stock block and just go aftermarket. 434 stroker cant be done in a stock block without filling certain jacket areas in the block from what I've read. All in all the general consensus is to not push the factory 400 blocks past 406/408 cause your asking for trouble.

As far as the 377 I believe 377CI is the 350 crank .030 over in a 400 block. Its a screamer motor much like the 327 is to the 350.
 
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