1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

Ground the studs and used a Die on the threads. Found 7 of the stock lug nuts, the perfect height, probably 1/4" of stud past the nut and they are basically even with the spacer. I put Blue Loctite and torqued the spacer to 110 ft/lbs. I ground the lip slightly on the inner wheel well, just to be certain. The uneven wheel spacing from side to side looks like sh*t. It is much closer now.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Since I will be going with Procomp aluminum heads milled to 68cc on the 363 stroker, I am swapping out the 77 to 79cc #8 heads with the 62 to 64cc #6 heads with 2.07/1.56 valves with the bowls opened. I am going to reuse the .028" head gaskets, look really good, just Copper coating them for 9 to 1, up from 8 to 1. I also have a good used Performer cam, 204/214 .448/.472 on a 114 LSA. I have the floppy Cloyes Street roller and a decent slack all steel basic replacement timing set that cam off the 260. I am going to try and degree the basic replacement set with the Performer cam, see how far it is off. With the 2300 stall, bigger boost valves and my 5000 rpm governor in the 2004R will make the 70S a fun 1/4 block burn out machine again.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well I found Felpro blue head gaskets and stock small 14cc dish pistons, best case scenario with #8 heads was 7.7 to 1☹. There is some wear on these cylinders, probably the reason for the slightly low cylinder. Either way this motor still has acceptable oil pressure and way less sludge than expected. I knew this motor had new gaskets at some point. The Felpro rubber valve cover gaskets broke in pieces, I have new Rocket Racing ones, rubber with the metal core. Here is the other surprise, the timing chain. Less slop than my double roller. I will inspect the cam, probably the less than 200 duration and .400 lift stock cam. I sprayed the cylinders, hitting the ring lands as much as possible with Kleenflo Combustion Chamber cleaner, it really frees stuck rings.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Almost ready to pull the Olds 350 and 2004R from the 88, drained them both. I pulled nearly everything of value, including the grills and Euro headlights. I even pulled the bracket where the brake switches go on for the cruise. I am pulling the oil pan on this 350, I need to see if there is a N crank. Plus I can clean out everything better. I ordered the rubber/cork diesel pan gasket. It makes it much easier for the timing cover to go back on and putting in the Ford 292 rubber rear main seal in as well. It can be a PIA to get out the old rope seal out. I may be in there for a year plus, no point in it oiling the driveway.

 

[69hurstolds]

I ordered the rubber/cork diesel pan gasket.

Not that it matters much in the big world scheme of engines, but it always slightly annoying to me to see Olds V8 oil pan gaskets referred to "diesel" pan gaskets. They're gas engine pan gaskets, too. In the U.S., they used the same GM p/n for all V8 oil pan gaskets from the 1964 330 and up (unless there's a unique piece I'm not familiar with) which were cork with steel core. TBH, I don't even know how that wives' tale even got started. Technically, they either have a steel core or they don't.

GM P/N 384472, superseded to 22519181 late in the 83 model year. Only two numbers used for 26 model years. There was one different part number used for exports, but I don't know the exact reasoning or what any difference was. Doesn't matter much, all the GM Olds V8 pan gaskets went obsolete 11 years ago.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Either way, it is the OS30471C heavy duty neoprene/cork replacement gaskets. Will see what actually arrives, do these have the metal core? Like everything Olds V8, you don't know exactly what you order till arrival or if it even shows up due to actually being discontinued.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I pulled the pan, no N on the crank. At least I have two 330 cranks.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I am a little more than frustrated on ordering parts through Amazon. I buy my main important parts through Mark Remmel. Not bothering Mark with little sh*t, I figured, little pissy parts are easy through Amazon. I ordered a 10 pack of thin Qjet gaskets since both tore removing the 1" open spacer on the Performer intake. Also ordered a heavy duty pan gasket set and an Autometer tachometer, no other tach has worked with my Mallory 6AL box. Well, the Tach was sent South to the Weyburn facility, no huge deal, no rush, SHOULD be here by the end of the week. Covid lockdowns has delayed the carb gaskets by weeks, hopefully next week at the latest. Also ordered a solar motion light to match the super bright one by the roll up door. This one was so I could see the two locks at my walk in door. Well, the sensor is screwed, only works properly once after resetting. So I ordered another, again, just got it, weeks late. Here is the best part, my pan gasket was shown as delivered, it isn't! I went to Purolator's site, said missed delivery, the door bell was not rang. They brought the package back to Regina, 1.5 hours away! So hopefully, they will bring it back here, will see. I get the volume of packages but don't show something as delivered when it wasn't.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Got my pan gaskets, a nice gasket, I assume not RTV is needed except where the side gaskets meet the pan lip seals. Hopefully the Autometer tach and carb gaskets come tomorrow. I plan on checking the ICL and see where the duration is at .050" this weekend. I will probably put it in 4 degrees advanced. I am pretty sure this is an Edelbrock timing set from some of the markings and the pics on line. Hopefully will get the short block in place as well. I need my engine stand empty for the 363 ci stroker within thr next couple of weeks.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Got this today. Hopefully a tach will finally work with the Mallory 6AL. I will try and get an AEM air/fuel meter this year as well.