Did some measurements, pretty sure the body mounts will need loosened and the body will need shifted to passenger side, there is a 1/2 inch difference at least, side to side.
1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style
- Thread starter olds307 and 403
- Start date
Is that car bent? I hope not but take some cross measurements from equal points on each side x the frame midsection front section and rear section.just to be safe
I will before loosening the body off the frame in the next few months. No obvious impact from what I see. I just did a rough measurement on the front, the same amount out.
I only asked because sometimes when they get hit they shift on the frame my 87 is crooked on the frame I straightened the frame but never loosened the body and shifted it back over
So I've had trouble finding the one piston and rod I need. I am seriously considering building the current 350 with better pistons and rods. The block should hone to 4.065" oversize. I have nearly fresh 2.07"/1.56" heads with the bowls opened with a cutter. They are 62 to 64cc. I would even the chambers to 64cc, add new positive seals and roller cam springs. I would also blend in the bowl hog cuts into the ports. I have slightly used roller lifters, longer main studs and a 1/2" 4 main Halo. I also have a 330 forged steel crank that is cut .020" mains and .010" rods. It was balanced for the no longer available 18cc dish forged Speedpro pistons and stock rods. So they would have to remove weight to balance the crank. Would no doubt be cheaper than adding expensive Mallory metal. I also have new cam bearings. Basically, I would need a new Cloyes billet roller timing set, roller cam to my spec, Mahle 10cc dish 1mm ring pack pistons, new Scat or Molnar direct replacement connecting rods, rings, bearings and basic gaskets, already have some. I would also go with a BBO stock replacement pan. A deep mid sump and a rear baffle vs the stock SBO pan. I would only need the cylinders honed, cam bearings installed, cleaned up deck and a line hone along with balancing for machine work. Cutlassefi got nearly 420 HP and 400+ FT LBS of TQ with a flat tappet cam and similar heads. I will probably buy the Stainless Chinese full length headers to get it completed quicker. I would probably move the new A body aluminum/plastic rad, serpentine belt set up and electric fans from the 88 to the 70S. Of course, the 2004R will still need upgrades like the Billet forward drum, wide band and CK shift kit at minimum.
Another part I have is ARP 7/16" Olds 350 head bolts. Cutlassefi accidentally sent me them instead of the longer ARP main studs for the Halo. I am going to pull the heads, intake, the rest of the top end and accessories off the 350 in the next few weeks too access the cylinder conditions. I am doing this so I can work on the heads and not remove the hood to pull the motor. Man, the cool, bulging "S" hood, seriously weighs about 200 awkward pounds. Two of us in my little shop found it a huge challenge to take on and off. If it wasn't for the hood tooth, the motor would pull with removing anything. The 88 steel hood is a lightweight feather in comparison. I could slap this 350 together but 250 hp doesn't appeal to me. You know, barely 9 to 1, 204/214 cam and stock cast pistons with soft stock rods. With the Mahle pistons and Molnar rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts, ARP main studs with a 1/2" Halo, 7500 rpm should be no issue. Cutlassefi's 417 hp/433 tq 350 has a fair amount of bowl work and filled crossovers. I won't fill the crossover's but I will blend the bowl cuts into the roof, tear drop the guide bosses and remove the air bumps on the exhaust side. I would think a roller cam will allow better vacuum and manners with a similar duration along with more lift. I do have 1.6" Comp roller tip and 1.72" Scorpion SBF full roller rocker arms, 5/16" to 3/8" conversion studs and guide plates. Since the roller cam will be a custom, Mark can put the lift where he thinks it should be for iron heads. I am measuring the body today, I need to see if just the rear is cockeyed to one side or if the whole car is.
I did some more measuring. I tried measuring from the frame to the tire, could not get an accurate measurement on the front. So I went from the hole in the frame to the trim screw, within a 1/4 on the front. So much for the whole body put to one side from the factory. Now the back is a different story. The back I stuck the lip of the measuring tape through the hole in the frame, pulled it tight and measured to the outside of the fender near a trim screw, same on both sides. I got 4.5" difference! Yes, bondo and smutz in the hole could throw off the measurement some. It definitely noticeable and I didn't see any obvious frame twists but I will obviously be doing much more investigating. If it was smacked in the rear end, how comes it still handles and drives very nice? It can take corners way better than my 88 Cutlass. On a slalom course, the 4 wheel drum brakes would be the biggest challenge.
Rocketman269V on Oldspower suggested I measure from the frame to the pinch weld where the wheel well and inner wheel tub meet. He also suggested from just in front off the bumper bracket on the frame to the fender lip. Yeah, only off a 1/2" at both places. It has to be an issue with the wheel tub as well. I may run a spacer, just on the driver's side.
I measured at the tires to the the edge of the outer fender lip. From what I measure, the passenger tire is 1" further out on the passenger side. So it is probably out a good 1/2" on the frame/body and probably the other half is the upper control arms. So maybe a 3/4" spacer on the driver's side should work, 1" will probably make trimming the wheel well trim ring, like on the passenger side.
So I put on my 3/4" spacer to test fit on the driver's side. It will make the wheels even in the wheel wells. So the studs are 3/4" and about 1 thread so I will probably just grind that one thread if there is interference. I have a 7/16" x 20 Tap and Die. I have Gorilla open end 7/16"x20 lug nuts. Of course they are twice as tall as the 12×1.50MM nuts that came with the spacers. Either grind time or try to find the factory lug nuts. No factory style nuts in town. I bought McGuard 12x1.50" lug nuts that look the same as the 7/16"×20 McGuard nuts on the rest of the wheels since the spacer has Metric studs.
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