1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I either have a fuel or ignition issue. I went out for a spin, it only hit 4000 rpm, struggled and died. No antifreeze overflow this time. It wouldn't restart right away. I got it going and wouldn't idle. Then no restart and tow. I got it running again, the idle was low, set it higher, then went to move it, die again and no restart. I am going to switch to my HEI distributor. I thought it might be a fuel issue but maybe it is ignition related. The plugs are black and dry. I has had a really long crank to start, especially when warm.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well I am pretty sure the Mallory distributor caused the hard start and cutting out at 4000 rpm. Carb is putting out two good streams of fuel. I did find the hose leaking before the inline fuel filter. I looked at the reluctor wheel and module pickup. It moved and cut into the pickup wheel. I swapped it with a HEI and it cranked normally but no spark. I am going to run a bigger gauge wire directly to the battery for testing but I bet the ignitor 3 module in it is toast. It is a good module with neat features but any spike in voltage or a distributor out of time or wires crossed, like I did, poof goes that module, had it happen twice before. I have at least 3 HEI distributors and extra modules, one is a AC Delco replacement, will probably go with this brass cap and Accel Brute Thunder coil and low ohm center contact. Then my new Autometer tach will work without the Mallory 6AL. I am not spending money on the ignition system. All this is leading to a sequential EFI set up for this car. Oh and it is only slightly quieter with the Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. I am actually pretty shocked at that one. I know where there is cliff to push this car off but I have to get it running first.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So the ignition was the issue. I had the power wire on the wrong terminal. I swapped the distributor before I figured this out. The distributor I swapped in has a faster curve and a 20 degree adjustable vacuum advance can. I will swap in the fancy Ignitor 3 module later since it has a rev limiter. I had to adjust the idle up a couple of times. It got flooded out enough the oil thinned out that the oil pressure dropped. I got back from the drive and dumped the oil it was black. I cranks normal when warm and my $200 tach now works.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I pretty sure the noise I am hearing isn't a knock from wasted bearings. I am almost positive it is the bottom part of the Turkey tray I cut off since I had the gaskets without the the bottom tray lying around. I cut it just below the gaskets, it was very close to the pushrods. I have a feeling pushrods are hitting it, kind of a flappy sound, my Wife called it. I need to pull the intake this weekend and at least eliminate that possibility while I have time.

 

[olds307 and 403]

My streak of good luck has continued. Pulled the pan under the intake, it did nothing, there was some contact but unfortunately no. Pretty sure the motor must have spun a bearing probably due to the weak ignition, the whopping 4000 rpm and flooding. Oil pressure is down, light is on at idle, never a good sign. I was told my headers might to be tested today. Then I got sent these pics, not good. Apparently 4th time is not a charm, definitely the worst out of the 4 sets I have bought. Needless to say they didn't make it on the dyno.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, the mini starter is acting up again. It clunks, cranked a bit, till I let off the key. It must be the solenoid again. I got the new one but they didn't include bolts. My current one has counter sunk Allen head bolts. So I need to take the block off my old starter or drill the new one out or buy new bolts.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, finally something sort of went my way, kind of. I went to switch the back block on the old to the new starter. There were the same attachment points but there were also two new ones where the new different style block attaches. I like the counter sunk Allen head starter bolts that came with the old starter. The new starter had a smaller block so I used a step drill and counter sunk till the bolts protruded the same amount as the old starter, the heads are 3/4 the way sunk. It cranks over fast. I plan on fixing the old starter as a back up. I have a Summit mini starter that is the same Hitachi style for parts.

 

[olds307 and 403]

These parts arrived today. I am installing the fan controller this weekend. I am leaving the rad for the new motor. Speaking of that, still no word, hopefully soon so I can order pistons. FYI, I have $1000 just for the starter, rad and fan controller. The strokes and ground undersized 330 crank, 1/2" Halo and studs, another grand.

 

[WanaBa442]

Who made/what brand is the radiator?

 

[olds307 and 403]

It is an Auto City Classic with dual 1 1/8" core aluminum rad. It should keep the new 350 stroker ice cold.