1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

I ordered a new mini starter, a pair of Super Turbo mufflers and advance Innova timing light to be the tach for the 70S. I even have a metal inductive clamp, I will probably solder in. My shop is a disaster, I am putting in an hour every night, so far, about 6 garbage bags worth and more to come. I have an extra tool box which helps but there is still too much stuff.

 

[bracketchev1221]

I ordered a new mini starter, a pair of Super Turbo mufflers and advance Innova timing light to be the tach for the 70S. I even have a metal inductive clamp, I will probably solder in. My shop is a disaster, I am putting in an hour every night, so far, about 6 garbage bags worth and more to come. I have an extra tool box which helps but there is still too much stuff.

Note to self, no X pipes, compression is not worth it for HP, and use a 16lb cap!!

 

[olds307 and 403]

The X pipe sounds OK, just this 70 must have a lot less padding under it than my 88 Brougham, just loud and droning. It had an air lock somewhere at that time, gauge wasn't moving and with no working tach, I must have ran the carb out of fuel, it may be pulling 5000+ rpm. A questionable line to carb and a fuel filter that isn't new, both will hopefully fix the issue. I just assumed the worst with the rad pressuring up. I just gambled reusing the thinner .028" head gaskets, not paying $100 US EACH for Olds .027" thick head gaskets on a temporary motor. I need to buy a rad pressure tester, it would eliminate the guess work. This carb is acting lean at idle, it should be the opposite, will spend some time on it. The slow cranking also made me jump to the conclusion it was filling the cylinders with antifreeze. If it was, it would probably be blowing the rad cap off on every run. I need this car running right for spring, I work 12 hour days, 6 days a week for a month straight.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I ordered a coolant pressure tester and a 500 psi gauge to test the transmission line pressure with the .555" boost valves.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So, I set up the choke to the richest setup, tuned the carb idle mixture with a vacuum gauge and tach, 17" at 1000 rpm with the 204/214 cam. I also put on a new Wix 3033 3/8" inline fuel filter and bent a 3/8" Ni Cooper line from the fuel pump to the carb. What a PIA but it is done, very tight around the bottom of the serpentine bracket and the pump outlet. Starts better, still a bit long of a crank when warm. I also changed the oil, slightly grey in colour but mostly black. I did fill the cylinders with Kleenflo Combustion Chamber Cleaner before assembling. I cleaned everything out good, surprised it became black so quick. Maybe with the reverse rotation water pump and the block being empty, caused an air lock. I also picked up a new rad cap and still need to get the speedometer working, was then wasn't, a connection issue. The Superturbo mufflers to replace the too loud Aerochamber's and new mini starter, replacing the slowish hot cranking one, they should be here, hopefully for next weekend.

 

[olds307 and 403]

The front speedometer cable was snapped off near the end. Used my spare cable, it now works.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I put on the rad pressure tester, pumped it up to 17 psi. It slowly bleeds down pressure, could be the tester. It moved very slowly.

 

[olds307 and 403]

There looks like seepage from where the rad plastic tanks meet the aluminum core from that seal, 3/4 the way up. There is a steady puddle at the bottom of this one year old rad on the passenger side. Of course the pressure test didn't show the leak but there is a tiny bit of antifreeze constantly in the plastic tank grooves I have cleaned with brake clean. I have the 2 core Cooper Brass rad that also has slight seepage on the passenger side as well.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So, I painted up the original 2 core Copper Brass rad that was recored at some point. It cools fine and fits the best, will throw stop leak in with it for the slight seepage. I may have stopped the leak on the aluminum plastic rad but it is aluminum and plastic😉. A new Autocity aluminum dual 1 1/8" core rad with stamped tanks will go in with the new motor. I ordered the Davies Craig 0444 dual relay digital dual relay fan controller. The reviews are great as well as feedback from members here. Every other controller I have bought, failed in one way or another. I just have it on a direct wired toggle switch. I will be swapping rads and mufflers this weekend. I will also hopefully finish and figure out the cruise control brake switch bracket off the 88.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, tonight is the night of holes. Rad was down, I could see seepage between the plastic and aluminum on the cheap 1 year old OTC rad. So I painted the original recored rad last night. I found a hole either from a back fire or rot hole in one of the Aerochamber mufflers, they are 15 years old, it would not help the noise.

I got the Super Turbo mufflers on, they sound good. I install the rad, going good then I see steam, a puddle and see this.

Screw it, I am ordering this right away.

1968-1972 GM A-Body Aluminum Radiator Lifetime Warranty Chevelle GTO Skylark | eBay

1968-1972, CHEVELLE CUTLASS, GTO, TEMPEST LEMANS, EL CAMINO. It is the size of the tubes/rows that provide the best cooling. Usually at a premium price. IT HAS DUAL(2) 1 1/8" HIGH FLOW TUBES FOR HIGHEST EFFICIENCY.

www.ebay.com