1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

I compared the stock style timing set and another stock balancer. I am sure it has to be in the right position. So it is actually much more normal sounding, no signs of life yesterday. The Powermaster mini starter has a lower pitch than the other mini but not stock either. It sounds mostly normal, no weird cranking like with the timing chain skipped at 475,000 km on an ds 307. I could tell I had the distributor in 180 out, popping out the exhaust. Went 180 the other to line up with #1 on the cap. It popped out the carb almost instantly. I cranked it to the firewall, cranked the distributor to the firewall, little better sounding, enough for tonight. I will go back one tooth and try again this weekend.
20220707_192451.jpg
20220707_192515.jpg
20220707_192523.jpg
 
I agree completely on these motors. Almost no one knows these old cars anymore. Yeah, the aftermarket replacement cams and timing sets all need checked with a degree wheel. I did degree this cam and timing set, when it was in the 350, everything is within spec. Problem was 4 hours straight after work. I nearly got it running in 15 minutes last night. It didn't help misplacing the the throttle cable clip. I have it zip tied on but still probably not getting full throttle. I find these motors once apart never just instantly start, always lots of screwing around to get them running.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Rktpwrd
I agree completely on these motors. Almost no one knows these old cars anymore. Yeah, the aftermarket replacement cams and timing sets all need checked with a degree wheel. I did degree this cam and timing set, when it was in the 350, everything is within spec. Problem was 4 hours straight after work. I nearly got it running in 15 minutes last night. It didn't help misplacing the the throttle cable clip. I have it zip tied on but still probably not getting full throttle. I find these motors once apart never just instantly start, always lots of screwing around to get them running.
Mine still ain't right and I still don't understand why. I really need hands on help with it but I highly dought I'll get any beside the verbal abuse "put an ls in it" or "put a Chevy in it" I've made it abundantly clear to those around me if I hear it agine il be in an orange jumpsuit and something from my toolbox will be in evidence. When you figure it out I need to know because we'll you read my thread. Next couple weeks I'm teaching myself diesel mechanics because I obviously can't pay someone to do that either. Hopefully I have better luck with that. And I'm pulling for you on this one. Perhaps I can one day stand on the shoulders of your knowledge and actually have a car to drive.
 
Thanks. I am no diesel mechanic either but I do drive them. Mechanically they are reliable for hundreds of thousands of miles. The DEF systems are a nightmare and regeneration and particulate filters a PIA. Hell Detroit Diesel could not even make a serpentine belt for years on end that didn't just fly off. What is the issue with your Duramax?
 
It lives! I restabbed in the distributor with the rotor on number one and the timing indicator on 20 degrees. It had 50 psi cold and around 15 psi warm idle oil pressure with 10W30. I had to add a bulb between the L wire and the 12 volt key on source, which I should have done initially. I had a pig tail very similar to a factory dash light, it now charges. I set the timing at 20 degrees at 1000 rpm in park.
 
Thanks. I am no diesel mechanic either but I do drive them. Mechanically they are reliable for hundreds of thousands of miles. The DEF systems are a nightmare and regeneration and particulate filters a PIA. Hell Detroit Diesel could not even make a serpentine belt for years on end that didn't just fly off. What is the issue with your Duramax?
Head gaskets
Congratulations!!
 
Yeah, it runs a bit better. This motor isn't perfect by any means. The oil pressure is lower than I thought with 10W30, it was just turning on the oil light and at a stop idling in gear. It might have been bit flooded and diluted. So I did an oil change with our 20W50 synthetic blend, a noticeable oil pressure improvement. I also went through and swapped a couple of bridges, rocker arms and pushrods around. There was some valve train clatter and play, looks like I improved the loose cylinders and is a bit quieter. Also the siamese bore 403 with increased compression is cool running with this huge 2 core with 1 1/8" cores aluminum rad, Plymouth Breeze fans and the awesome 80 amp Davies Craig digital adjustable fan controller, it hasn't seen above 180. Most times it has barely been above the 160 Robert Shaw high flow thermostat temperature, since I have the fans kicking in early. I love the soft start on the fans with this controller and only one starting at a time then after 30 seconds, full speed. Yeah, I have heard a few of certain years Duramax loose head gaskets. A sucky job for sure. At least the heads are aluminum, less awful to lift off.
 
Well, I did some full throttle tests of this 403. I smell burnt tires😁. Plenty of torque, half throttle will spin the tires. It is running at about 11.5 AFR at wide open throttle. Supposedly the max torque AFR, I believe it.
 
Well, I did some full throttle tests of this 403. I smell burnt tires😁. Plenty of torque, half throttle will spin the tires. It is running at about 11.5 AFR at wide open throttle. Supposedly the max torque AFR, I believe it.
That's awesome! Want to sneak over the border and fix mine? LoL come on I'll show you around jersey lol
 
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: Rktpwrd and DRIVEN
Mine isn't perfect LOL. I wish I could help you to get it running right. It is amazing what a few turns of the screws can do and having a wideband to actually see the changes. This motor still has more valve noise than I want. It could be the thicker head gaskets but these heads were milled when rebuilt. I fear this cam is heading south after dumping the first high ZDDP, 2100 ppm Lucas Hot Rod 10W30 due to low oil pressure. The oil looked pretty silver, I should have grabbed a magnet and pushed it around, never a good sign. The cam was ran for years in another motor and all the lifters turned in the bores. I am happy it is less noisy, no out right knocking and can get out of its own way, big time. The other thing that surprises me is how cool this 403 runs, barely above thermostat. I wish the last 403 in my Gbody ran this cool. The years of hot running soured me on that car. There is still the million dollar 358 that needs to go back to the machine shop, the first shop will never see anything I own that needs machining. Either the rods or the machine work is bad, my bet is on the machine work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Clutch and Rktpwrd

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor