1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[Ugly1]

Pulled the plugs, they all looked like the same. It definitely sounds external or totally different that the last few rod knocks my Olds have developed, almost tinny in person. If the motor isn't screwed, I am considering going to my Qjet, Performer and manual control of the 4L80E and putting the Terminator X Max on my Dakota, for a few reasons on both vehicles. I had to move it to put the Dakota in the garage. I finally changed the Dodge factory tiny 6 gauge battery cables to 1 gauge cables. It didn't like -40 despite a 850 CCA battery, factory mini starter and our Coop full synthetic 0W30. Even they look tiny compared to the 4/0 cables I put on the Olds. We have a snow storm coming, other than moving snow tomorrow, I plan on a more through inspection tomorrow, including disconnecting the torque converter, running it disconnected and really inspecting that area. I have never seen a real knock go away after initial start up, usually the knock gets louder as oil pressure goes to nothing, not 40 psi at 750 rpm.

The one thing that might be possible is piston slap. It just occurred to me. It can sound like a rod and I’ve had it on a fresh rebuilt motor. It’s the piston rocking in the cylinder. It may be the piston, the cylinder, or the wrist pin. I think my brother told me “just drive it”. You could get a “Automotive Stethoscope: For Enhanced Noise Detection in Engines” and see if it’s high or low on the block. You can find them for around $12

 

[olds307 and 403]

Good thinking, have one of those stethoscopes. I will put it on stands this weekend and run it. I also have a new bore scope coming.

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

I can't remember if the oil pump has been accused yet or not but Melling had a bunch of them that were noisy as all hell. I almost went insane trying to pinpoint that noise once, and it certainly had me thinking a bearing was out.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I can't remember if the oil pump has been accused yet or not but Melling had a bunch of them that were noisy as all hell. I almost went insane trying to pinpoint that noise once, and it certainly had me thinking a bearing was out.

This one has a slight noise but, only a slight sound and notchy feel. Cutlassefi had two seize up on the dyno! Yes, not a bad guess, there were serious issues.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I finally fired up the heat in the garage early this morning, -28 point something on my weather station. After many hours of stalling, watching our new 55 RCA smart TV, I finally got outside. I unboxed my new 3 ton floor jack that can lift 24 inches, $100 off, $250. It is ridiculously heavy, talking 100+ pounds but actually rolls around really nice, unlike my other 90 pound 3 ton jack. I got it up, pulled the cover and checked the torque converter bolts tightness only moved slightly and even slid a 5/8" wrench to check flexplate to crank tightness. I got the torque converter bolts slightly tighter, held for checking both with a 1/2" swing bar. I also noticed barely touching the gas the sound got quieter last time it ran, talking a 50 rpm change, at idle. Then while spinning it by hand, I found it, knew it was external! I see a slight chunk out and the edge with a crack just below one of the flexplate to crank bolts. It explains why it is there only a short time after first start and gone when hot and at higher rpm, the opposite of a bearing knock. Same with the oil pressure, 70+ to 80 cold and just below 40 at hot idle, talking 750 to 800 rpm. The fix to replace this Speedmaster POS is a $400 Canadian ATI internal balance flexplate for my 330 crank. I am still waffling on dumping the EFI altogether and going old school on nearly everything except maybe a Progression ignition and a controller for the 4L80E. I may just move the Terminator X Max ECM inside the car instead of under hood and clean it up some.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I received my grommets last night.

I am going to find a spot on the passenger firewall to drill a 1.5" hole to route the Holley Terminator X Max wiring through the firewall and mount the ECM in the glove box. It will just look so much neater. When I drop the 4L80E to replace the flexplate, I need to clearance the floor pan more for the cooler lines, some dimples, still super tight. Also now that the 68cc Olds Edelbrock cylinder heads are finally released, I need a set! When I put this motor in the car, it was all put together to easily add these heads. For example, I used RTV only on the block side for the pan gasket, same for the timing cover gasket. I have all the gaskets, including Mr Gasket MLS 4.100" head gaskets going on, if the other gaskets do get damaged on removal. I also have a Cloyes 9 way billet timing set, thrust button, Lunati custom 218/218 on a 112 LSA hydraulic roller cam, with the Harland Sharp roller rockers made for these heads in a 1.65 ratio, .541/.541 lift. Also the ridiculous expensive Comp Evolution hydraulic roller lifters, hopefully the live up to the name. So only the only thing needed besides heads, is push rods, have a checker push rods. These new heads will put me at 9.4 to 1 fine for any octane but will continue with non ethanol Premium 91, should be in 400 HP range with the cam swap and more importantly 450+ ft-lbs probably, not to far off my 2100 stall. Exciting, need to make it happen.