1980 Cutlass build

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Thanks for the link!
 
truracer20 said:
Fox80 said:
If you could post some pics of the radiator/ fan install. I am at this point on my car now that I will be reinstalling the motor and finishing up the underhood of the car
I don't know if you are past that point yet or not but there are a couple pictures of the install. The fan and shroud are Summit brand and fit OK for a universal part. I did have to notch the shroud a little to get its mounting surface tight to the top plate. Wiring was straight forward as the relay kit came with directions. I used the wiring buss bar from one of the parts trucks and mounted it on the fender to run power to the starter and fan as well as the alternator charge wire. The relay is mounted to the fan shroud. The 16" fan does much better at cooling than I thought it would. The engine runs at 190* - 195* while cruising and 200* - 205* when I run it hard. If I shut the engine off and leave the fan run it will cycle off after about 8 minutes and when I re start the engine the temp will be under 160*. Granted this is an all new cooling system besides the heater core which was flushed so there is no crud and no blockages anywhere.
The radiator fit like a stock item except that the rubbers needed some trimming to fit the tanks. And for the price the Champion radiator was money well spent, quality is excellent I believe I paid $180 for it.


Do you have a part number on the radiator and shroud? The fit does look pretty nice for what the radiator cost.
 
I should also say I had to scrounge around to find the right size mounting rubbers for the radiator since I started with a V6 small core rad. The Champion radiator will mount perfect with stock V8 rad parts. I also had to buy a fan thermostat and relay kit from Summit part number SUM-890016.
 
Next on the agenda for this car are some new shoes.

I like the Summit brand Warrior wheels and the Jegs brand Sport Star(Both are made by Ultra Wheels) in 15x8 4.5" bs and 15x7 4" bs. I prefer this center style over the Prostar and the price is hard to beat but back spacing sizes aren't ideal and they are kind of heavy.


Then there are the American Racing AR61 Silver Outlaw I that I personally really like and the 3.75" backspacing is workable in the 15x7 and 15x8 sizes


Then the Weld Prostars are THE wheels I lusted after as a teen but could never afford. This choice is the one I am leaning toward most but can't decide if I should use 15x9 with 4.5" bs or 15x8 with 3.5" bs in the rear with 15x6 3.5" bs up front.


Tires will be Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR, 26x10.0-15 rear and 26x8.0-15 front.(the picture is of a larger size tire)


I'm going for the old school bigs and littles look, so I need rear wheels with a noticeably deeper set center than the fronts. The Jegs and Summit wheels aren't going to give me that with just a 1/2" difference, the AR61 will be just a little better in that regard with a 1" difference, and the Prostars should be ideal with a 2" difference with either rear choice.

I'm just not sure how the 15x9 4.5"bs Weld wheels will fit. The rear tire specs are 26.1" tall, 10.3" section width on an 8" rim, 8.8" tread width. So on a 9" rim the section width should be 10.7", that seems a little wide.

This is how the car sits now with 14" rally wheels and 195/70-14 REAR tires, and 195/75-15 front tires,



I should have plenty of room height wise since the original rears are 24.5" tall and the new rears will be 26.1", the original fronts are 25.5" and the new fronts will be 26.1". I'm not really looking to get the tires up inside the wheel wells

Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated. This will be a major expense and I really don't want to make any mistakes.
Anyone using this size wheel or tire on their Cutlass? Have any pictures?
 
Well I went with the Summit brand Warrior R/T 15x8 and 15x7 With MT Sportsman SR. Now I have to wait for them to be shipped from Nevada...

 
I got the new wheels and tires on the car today. It's nice to have some decent looking tread width. The 26x10-15 Sportsman SR tires on the 15x8 wheels have 9" of tread width, the 26x8-15 SR's have 7" tread width on 15x7 wheels. No pictures yet but it looks good. I will say though that I've only got to try the tires on cool wet roads and wet traction isn't good... Ofcourse I still only have a one legged rear end...

One thing worth mentioning is that I have read on here and elsewhere that 4 1/2" back spacing will work on the rear of G bodies, in my case it isn't completely true. the inside lip of the rim nearly contacts the lower shock mounts and in the case of my tires the side wall is only about 1/4" from the inner wheel well at static ride height. I will need a rear sway bar.
4" back spacing worked out great on the front.

The Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR's also offer rim lip protection. Nice feature. Too bad they don't have a raised white letter option. as they do with the Sportsman ST.
 
Some pics of the new wheels and tires,










 
While I was ordering wheels I decided to get new wheel studs. So I searched and searched online to find out what the knurl diameter was. The only thing I could find was .480" So I ordered 10 7/16-20 with .480" knurl. They came and I tried to install them, no luck. Turns out the knurl on my studs is .464" with a hole diameter of .455".

So just for future reference for people searching for the same info the, 1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme uses 7/16"-20 x .464 knurl rear wheel studs.

The longest studs with that knurl that I could find are 1 3/4", just 1/4" longer than stock.

So to get longer studs you need a minimum .480" knurl.
In order to use .480" knurl studs you have to drill the stud holes to 15/32" which is .4687".
That's only .0137 larger than the original .455" hole.
My .480" knurl studs actually measure .482". So if the 15/32" bit drills onsize it leaves a .014" press fit which isn't terrible but I figure the bit will go slightly oversize .001 or so giving a little better fit. Should work.

I have read of guys pressing .480" studs into the .455" hole, I think that is a bad idea because the root diameter of the .480 knurl is larger than the hole size. The root diameter of my .480" studs is .465".
 
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