1983 Big Block Monte Slow Build (Lowered Expectations)
- Thread starter Supercharged111
- Start date
Got the carb the rest of the way apart and hot tanked. Next I got some oxidation off with a Dremel wire brush. Noticed some cut marks around the idle screws which are a pain to access. Seems they were capped from the factory.
As was the part throttle screw but I freed it.
I'm not sure if I should knock out the brass too? I don't know that I can fit anything down the hole to adjust it while the carb is assembled. Plus I want to drill and tap this area so I can thread a plug in to keep dirt out.
For reference, it was only 1.5 turns out.
Edit: after seeing my own pic, I realized that the brass insert spins right out. It has a 3/8" NF thread. Time to see if I can find a plug.
As was the part throttle screw but I freed it.
I'm not sure if I should knock out the brass too? I don't know that I can fit anything down the hole to adjust it while the carb is assembled. Plus I want to drill and tap this area so I can thread a plug in to keep dirt out.
For reference, it was only 1.5 turns out.
Edit: after seeing my own pic, I realized that the brass insert spins right out. It has a 3/8" NF thread. Time to see if I can find a plug.
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Already engineered a solution with parts on hand. Whacked the aluminum plug back into the brass threaded dealy, Dremelled a screwdriver slot into it, chucked it into the drill and lathed it down with sandpaper until it fit. This is it threaded in, there's no resistance and the fit is perfect.
I think I need to thread it back out and stake it in for a little better grip though. I also concluded that a hogged out valve stem tool will be a cheap easy alternative to the current offerings for tweaking the part throttle adjustment screw.
I think I need to thread it back out and stake it in for a little better grip though. I also concluded that a hogged out valve stem tool will be a cheap easy alternative to the current offerings for tweaking the part throttle adjustment screw.
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Staked the plug into the brass fitting and it helped get that plug tighter. It can never back out though with an air cleaner fitted. I did notice another problem today.
And for clarity, this is a Saginaw pump still right?
I can't see why it wouldn't be. I have a non-hydroboost housing I can pop on if so and be able to monitor fluid levels properly. After seeing so many build threads, I took a closer look at my frame.
This is an area of concern. Enough so that I think it's prudent to source a new frame to clean up. There is one for sale locally and I intend to have a peek here over the holidays. It's been on CL for a month so hopefully can beat him down from asking price if it's cleaner than mine. I saw a TON of floor rot in the single pic posted, but this state isn't known for rotted out cars so only one way to find out.
Based on that last pic, is this an early or late 83 frame? I want to know what I'm looking for there. It appears some trans cross member modification was required for the powertrain swap.
Does this slip yoke look like it's too far out?
And there's a peek at the ghetto *ss floor repair. Looks like I'll learn a lot of new tricks on this car.
And for clarity, this is a Saginaw pump still right?
I can't see why it wouldn't be. I have a non-hydroboost housing I can pop on if so and be able to monitor fluid levels properly. After seeing so many build threads, I took a closer look at my frame.
This is an area of concern. Enough so that I think it's prudent to source a new frame to clean up. There is one for sale locally and I intend to have a peek here over the holidays. It's been on CL for a month so hopefully can beat him down from asking price if it's cleaner than mine. I saw a TON of floor rot in the single pic posted, but this state isn't known for rotted out cars so only one way to find out.
Based on that last pic, is this an early or late 83 frame? I want to know what I'm looking for there. It appears some trans cross member modification was required for the powertrain swap.
Does this slip yoke look like it's too far out?
And there's a peek at the ghetto *ss floor repair. Looks like I'll learn a lot of new tricks on this car.
Yeah, that yoke is a touch too far out, like 3". No way it was ever driven like that.
I don't know the year breaks (someone here will chime in), but the later frames have 2 sets of crossmember bolt holes on the driver side (about 8" apart, front to back).
You obviously didn't know my dad. I'll take a tape measure to the trans cross member area, but if 84 is the break point then that answers that. I'm not sure what year this potential donor is as the ad doesn't say.
G body frame
stock frame Has front suspension on it (Monte carlo cutlass regal grand prix ) 78- 88 GM
cosprings.craigslist.org
These ads have the same location, so it appears it was a Cutlass.
G body interior blue 78 - 88
Complete interior Good carpet also (Monte carlo cutlass regal) Was originally out of cutlass
cosprings.craigslist.org
This HVAC setup looks different than mine.
The original ad was posted with the body shell and HVAC box. Hopefully he's yanked the body then. I'll send him a message and see.
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