Can't go wrong with a set of classic aluminum slots if you can find a good set or two pairs in the right sizes, lug patterns and back spacing. Ansen Sprints are pretty close but not quite like the old school slots.
1983 Cutlass
- Thread starter Shakes the Rat
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I like that style and they are affordable, I have Convo Telstars on my Monte and I have always thought a five spoke wheel looks best on a Gbody.
Be ready to change your mind a gazillion times before you buy new wheels, i like many other sure as hell did! Best bit of advice is to find a good online wheel visualizer to help narrow down what fits your taste.
It will be hard to beat the wheel you linked at that price though! As 565 said, i too think a 5 spoke wheel looks the best on our cars....obviously my opinion. I've seen other wheels look decent if picked properly, but even my factory 5 spoke olds rallyes look sweet for a 14" wheel.
It will be hard to beat the wheel you linked at that price though! As 565 said, i too think a 5 spoke wheel looks the best on our cars....obviously my opinion. I've seen other wheels look decent if picked properly, but even my factory 5 spoke olds rallyes look sweet for a 14" wheel.
Alright, back to the transmission. I need to have the direct piston machined to accept five steels and clutches before I can begin assembling the transmission. This begins with disassembling the direct drum and reassembling it with four steels and clutches. I measured the clearance with a feeler gauge. I also measured a steel/clutch and the piston.
I had .056 clearance with new clutches/steels. Since I want to have a final .050 clearance, I subtracted .006 from the clutch/steel measurement. This should be what I want machined from the piston. Because the clearance tolerance is .040 to .060, I'll probably machine it a few thousandths short. I'd rather it have a tight gap than wide.
I had .056 clearance with new clutches/steels. Since I want to have a final .050 clearance, I subtracted .006 from the clutch/steel measurement. This should be what I want machined from the piston. Because the clearance tolerance is .040 to .060, I'll probably machine it a few thousandths short. I'd rather it have a tight gap than wide.
Once again, my plans didn't work out. I wanted to take the direct piston to a friends shop last week to machine it for the 5th clutch. Unfortunately, I got sick for the first time in three years. I was down for a week so that didn't get done. I did have some time off Christmas eve so I got some work done on the frame.
I made a template for the lower control arm brackets,
cut them out of 11 gauge and welded them up.
I bought a TIG welder 4 months ago. Since I'm using every opportunity to practice with it, I used it to weld the plates together. I then used my MIG to weld the brackets to the frame itself. I need to drill a few holes in the bracket so water and dirt won't collect inside. If I can stay ahead of other shop work, I can get to the upper control arm reinforcement Sunday.
I made a template for the lower control arm brackets,
cut them out of 11 gauge and welded them up.
I bought a TIG welder 4 months ago. Since I'm using every opportunity to practice with it, I used it to weld the plates together. I then used my MIG to weld the brackets to the frame itself. I need to drill a few holes in the bracket so water and dirt won't collect inside. If I can stay ahead of other shop work, I can get to the upper control arm reinforcement Sunday.
Great looking work!Once again, my plans didn't work out. I wanted to take the direct piston to a friends shop last week to machine it for the 5th clutch. Unfortunately, I got sick for the first time in three years. I was down for a week so that didn't get done. I did have some time off Christmas eve so I got some work done on the frame.
I made a template for the lower control arm brackets,
cut them out of 11 gauge and welded them up.
I bought a TIG welder 4 months ago. Since I'm using every opportunity to practice with it, I used it to weld the plates together. I then used my MIG to weld the brackets to the frame itself. I need to drill a few holes in the bracket so water and dirt won't collect inside. If I can stay ahead of other shop work, I can get to the upper control arm reinforcement Sunday.
Time for an update. After a rough start of the year (I got sick, my dog got sick, my truck broke down) I'm finally able to get back to my Olds. My dog cost me $600 at the vet so new parts are put off for a while but I still have a lot of labor to do.
I drilled the speed/drain holes for the lower control arm brackets.
The box sections are mostly welded in. I tacked the lower side in but haven't welded it yet. I'm going to flip the frame over to make welding easier.
And I made the transition piece from the trans mount.
And since GM apparently hired a blind man to weld their frames with two batteries, jumper cables and a coat hanger, I'm rewelding the frame.
I drilled the speed/drain holes for the lower control arm brackets.
The box sections are mostly welded in. I tacked the lower side in but haven't welded it yet. I'm going to flip the frame over to make welding easier.
And I made the transition piece from the trans mount.
And since GM apparently hired a blind man to weld their frames with two batteries, jumper cables and a coat hanger, I'm rewelding the frame.
I picked up an engine before I went to work. 350 TBI engine from a truck. The casting codes show it has provisions for a roller cam and the owner swore it has never been rebuilt. Could be two or four bolt main. I'll find out when I do a tear down, maybe tonight.
I may take you up on that. It'll be awhile though. Since the engine will be the most expensive thing in the car it'll probably be the last thing I build.
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