EL CAMINO 1983 El Camino 5.3 Swap / Build Thread

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New Brake Master Cylinder

If you read my last installment, you'll know that we're quarantined at home working through COVID-19. Not being able to run out to the auto parts store added a level of challenge to replacing the failed master cylinder. I thought maybe I might be able to convince my local O'Reilly to help me out with a curbside pickup, but O'Reilly one-upped me delivering the new master cylinder to our front porch, for free, in just 48 hours. Once we had the new part in hand, it only took a few minutes to bench bleed it and install it on the car. I think we may finally have the brake system finished (quickly kocks on nearest wooden object). The brakes feel solid and they held pressure over night without leaking. We'll keep any eye on them for the next few days for puddles, but I'm cautiously optimistic.

Heater A/C Box Cleanup

Years ago, when my younger brother was driving the El Camino, he parked it every night under a pine tree in our parents yard. We've cleaned at least a million pine needles out of every crack and crevice of the car. We found needles in the carpet, inside the frame, stuck to the side of the old engine block, and just about everywhere else a needle could settle. You can imaging my trepidation about the condition of the heater A/C box. I had visions of a solid mass of mud and pine droppings. So, when I pulled the heater fan motor, I was pleasantly surprised. There were, of course, pine needles, but blissfully, these was no mud. In fact, there wasn't even very much dust. I pulled the top of the heater box and used the shop vac to suck out the pine needles around the AC condenser and the heater core. Everything appears to be in good shape. The heater door moves freely and even the drain flap opens and closes as it should. At some point, we will need to order a seal kit and reseal the whole box, but for now, it's servicable.

Headliner

Like most old GM cars, the El Camino's headliner was drooping badly. That same younger brother attempted to resecure the headliner with thumbtacks. While functional, his solution looked about as classy as you would expect. In the twenty years since, the headliner, and the foam above it, have continued to deteriorate. I turned my son loose with the task of forcefully removing the old headliner. Once the dust cleared, the headliner and backer board were in pieces and gone. We have a new headliner on order. In the meantime, we installed sheets Kilmat sound deadening material to the underside of the roof. We used the same Kilmat on the floor pans before we reinstalled the carpet. The goal is to make the El Camino's cab a little more like the quiet interiors of today's modern cars. Even if we can't quiet it down that far, it certainly won't hurt anything.

Heater Controls

Back when we sorted through the wiring, we had to do some creative rewiring to revive the heater fan motor. At that point, we had low, medium, other medium, and high, but we were stuck in Defrost mode. The slider on the heater control panel was physically stuck on DEF. While I was sucking trash out of the heater box, my son was standing on his head inside the cab eye-balling the heater controls. He immediately spotted the problem. If you've ever had one of these control panels apart, you'll be familiar with the 9 port vacuum valve that controls which mode your HVAC system is in. In basic terms, this valve is a pair of wheels with tiny holes in them. As you move the mode lever on the control panel, the one of the wheels turns against the other wheel to align holes that connect vacuum circuits to activate the various HVAC modes (defrost, heater, vents, etc.). The two wheels are held together, face-to-face by a plastic clip. At some point, the clip broke and jammed the control lever. As you might expect, that clip isn't available on the after-market. A new repop control valve is $75. A NOS valve is is $150!!! Luckily, I found a really smart guy on the Internet who discovered that the clip can be replaced by a #8-32 machine screw with a lock nut. I have a reasonable stock of hardware in my shop. So, a #8-32 machine screw was no problem The challenge was that the head of the machine screw was too tall and it interfered with the control lever, just like the broken clip did. It took some fiddling around, but I ground enough off the head of the screw to make it clear the control lever. With everything pieced back together, the controls work perfectly.

Backup Lights

This problem turned out to be incredibly easy to solve. When we tested out all of the lights, several weeks ago, my son pointed out that we had no back up lights. Then, when we were working on the transmission shifter linkage, we discovered that the back up lights actually DID work, they just didn't work when the shifter was in reverse. It turned out that the back up light switch was just out of adjustment. The problem was that my old El Camino was a 3-speed manual, so I've never messed with a column mounted switch. Some quick Internet research showed me just how easy these things are to adjust. In case it might help someone else with the same problem, you're looking for a white semi-circular piece of plastic mounted to the top side of the steering column just above the brake pedal. The switch is mounted on toothed rack that "pivots" around the steering column. All you have to do to adjust the switch is use your finger tip to rotate the switch one way or the other a few clicks. It's easier to do than it is to describe. Once I knew how it worked, it literally took 30 seconds to adjust. The only reason it took that long is that I went three clicks the wrong direction. Six clicks back and the lights came on.

What's next?

Well, we were supposed to drop the car off at the exhaust shop on Dec 27. But, since we have several days left of our Christmas vacation quarantine, that will have to wait. In the meantime, we'll keep picking away at the lesser items on the punch list. My son doesn't know it yet, but he's about to get a new touchscreen stereo receiver for Christmas. I suspect we'll be installing it in the car sometime very soon. That will lead to more wiring, more wiring after that, and some console fabrication.
 
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New Years Update. More progress and more challenges...

Console, Stereo, Backup Camera

As I mentioned in my last update, my son received a new stereo for Christmas (Thanks Mom and Dad!) It's a Dual brand double din touch screen receiver with a backup camera. For speakers, we threw in a pair of old truck boxes that I had laying around the garage. It's decidedly NOT high-end audio. But, it has all of the conveniences of a modern stereo (touch screen, blue tooth, hands free calling, Android Auto for navigation, etc.). He can upgrade the components when he joins the working world and starts paying for his own toys. We spent a couple of days after Christmas whipping up a console to house the double din stereo and a pair of cup holders. See pictures below. If you've ever tried, you already know that a double din stereo won't fit in the factory location without significant cutting. And, once you're done butchering the dash, the touch screen is at a lousy viewing angle. It's too low and it is flat with the dash. We want to be able to use the screen for navigation, so we opted to mount it at a better viewing angle, about 50 degrees. Ideally, the screen would be mounted up high, like in a new vehicle, but this console is a good compromise. It places the screen at a serviceable angle without dramatically altering the look of the original dash. As you can see in the first picture, we had to cut out the bottom front edge of the original radio housing, but it all gets covered up by the console. And, before anyone throws daggers our way for hacking up the dash, relax. The dash has some old-age cracking. If my son ever decides to restore the car properly, it will need a new dash anyway. The console construction is pretty much finished. The next time we get some decent weather, we'll smooth out the edges and wrap it in dark brown vinyl. I didn't get a good picture, but we mounted the backup camera in the license plate recess in the tailgate. It's almost invisible, which is kind of the point. Now that it's all in and working, I have to admit, it's pretty cool to make phone calls, see a navigation screen, and view the backup camera in a 40 year old car.

Dash Light Upgrades

While we were futzing around in the dash, it seemed like a good time to open up the gauge cluster for some bulb replacements and upgrades. First, one of the turn signal indicator bulbs was burned out. Replaced. Second, like all old cars, the dash lights were pretty useless. So, we replaced the dash light bulbs with LED equivalents. They're WAY brighter than the incandescent bulbs and they put out much less heat.

Oil Pressure Gauge

Since we had the gauge cluster apart, it was a perfect time to install an oil pressure gauge. Although the El Camino was ordered as an SS, the original owner cheaped out on the gauges. Instead of a full rally gauge set, it has idiot lights and a classy, but useless, full face analog clock. No engine telemetry. When we installed the LS engine, we added a digital gauge that includes a tach, temp gauge, and voltmeter. Oil pressure, however, lives on a GM proprietary PID in the ECU and the aftermarket digital gauge can't read it. So, we went old school with a mechanical gauge. My son wanted it to blend in with the factory interior, so we went with a black on black gauge and we mounted it in the dash, just below the original warning lights. Now that we have a way to monitor oil pressure, I'm happy to report that the 5.3 has 40+ PSI at idle. Starting a mothballed engine with no oil pressure gauge made me very nervous. I'm feeling much better now.

Electric to Mechanical Speedometer Adapter

Again, while the dash was apart, it was a good time to install the new speedometer cable for the Abbott CableX electric to mechanical speed adapter. The cable install was pretty straight forward. The CableX install? Not so much. Actually, the CableX install went fine. But, once it was installed, we ran it through a calibration test and the speedometer needle bounced up and down ten MPH in either direction. It acts like the CableX motor isn't strong enough to spin the cable. At this point, I suspect either the cable lubricant gummed up from sitting on shelf too long or the speedometer head is stiff from sitting for 20 years. For now, we disconnected the power from the CableX until we have time (and warmer weather) to tear into the speedometer.

Windshield Washer Pump

The installation of the CableX box required relocating the windshield washer fluid tank forward a few inches. Until now, we hadn't bothered to test the windshield squirters, but since we were near the fluid tank, we added fluid and gave it a try. No surprise, the pump doesn't actually, you know, pump. We'll leave that troubleshooting for another day. For now, some Rain X and a new set of wiper blades will have to do.

Maiden Voyage

A couple of days after Christmas, we had an unusually warm day, so we pulled the car out of the garage for it's first wash in 20 years. The body is still a mess, but at least we knocked off the dirt and grime. Then, we took it out for it's maiden voyage. We only went a couple of blocks (still no exhaust, after all), but it gave us a chance to test the brakes and transmission. The brakes worked well and the transmission shifted smoothly. If you've been following along for a while, you know that most of the braking system has been replaced. And, the transmission was the last major "system" that hadn't been tested. When it shifted the first time, I let out an audible sigh of relief. Once the exhaust is installed, we'll take it out for a more thorough shake down drive.

What's Next?

We're finally all recovered from our latest bout of COVID-19. Stupid pandemic! So, we can try again to make an appointment for the dual exhaust install and front end inspection & alignment. Now that winter has arrived in the mid-west further progress might have to wait a while.
 

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Forward progress and more challenges...

Exhaust Install

On Thursday of last week, I dropped the El Camino off at a local exhaust shop. In case any of you are located in Central Illinois, I went to Derringer Auto Care in Springfield. These guys have been doing custom exhaust since the year the El Camino was new! We were definitely in good hands. They can build just about any type of exhaust you want, from mild to ludicrous. My son doesn't like loud exhaust. He wanted duals that flow better than stock without raising the suspicions of the local constabulary. Since we're working with a stock 5.3, there was no need to go any larger than dual 2 1/4" pipes. To keep the noise level under control, we chose Walker Quiet Flow mufflers. The shop welded the down pipes to the stub collectors that house the O2 sensors, into an X pipe, back to the mufflers, over the rear axle, around either side of the gas tank and straight out the rear, flush with the rear bumper. Just in case we ever have to pull the engine or transmission, I asked them to add a pair of ball connectors at the transmission cross member. This would let us disconnect the front half of the exhaust without fighting the X pipe, mufflers, and tailpipes. The shop sells exhaust systems as a "package", including mufflers. Since we supplied the mufflers, they threw in the X pipe, ball connectors, and a pair of welded chrome tips for no extra charge. Great people to work with.

I think my son made the right choices. It has a nice quiet rumble at idle and opens up nicely under throttle without waking up the neighbors. When I was his age, I had a pair of Cherry Bomb glasspacks on my El Camino. It was truly obnoxious. Now that I've heard this system, I would love to go back in time and make my car sound like this one. The truth is, if my El Camino sounded this good, I'd probably still have it.

Alignment

The shop that did the exhaust also does alignments. Since the car hasn't been aligned in 30ish years and we've done significant suspension work, I asked them to rack it up, inspect the wear points in the front, and see how far out of straight it was. Boy am I glad we did! The caster and camber of the front passenger corner were all out of whack. I suspect that my younger brother probably hit something pretty hard with that corner and never bothered to report it to our parents. The shop was able to bring it back into spec, but that brought the tire forward enough that it rubs the lower air dam when the wheels are turned full right. Everything above the frame is fine (frame, bumper, and sheet metal), but the air dam and the metal bracket that supports it appear to be pushed up and back slightly. We never noticed it because it looked "right" in relation to the wheel. Now that the wheel is back in spec, you can see the problem. We definitely have some straightening to do.

What's Next

The forecast promises workable temperatures on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. So, we'll spend our evenings straightening out the air dam. While the car is off the ground, I'll try to grab some decent pictures of the exhaust system. The shop really did a nice job. Next, we'll probably pull the dash apart again to clean and lube the speedometer cable in hopes of loosening it up enough for the Cable X electric-to-mechanical magic to work smoothly. Then, we're back on hold until the Illinois DMV comes out of their self-imposed COVID-19 hibernation. If the DMV ever reopens, we'll do the title transfer (still in my parents names) and put license plates on the car. And then, I expect the El Camino to disappear from the garage only to return when my son gets bored of riding around town showing it off.

There is plenty of work left to do, but the cold weather has us pretty much shutdown for the winter. We'll take advantage of any rare warmish evenings to pick items off the punch list.
 
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As promised, here are some pictures of the new exhaust system. It's not a sexy stainless steel show car system and it's not crazy high performance race system. With all of that said, I think we have a solid, well sorted, daily driver dual exhaust. We used 2 1/4" pipes and Walker Quiet Flow mufflers. My son wanted quiet, but better performance than a stock single exhaust. The exhaust shop included all the features we asked for and did a good job of tucking it all up, out of harms way. My son and I are happy with the way it sounds and with the way the shop landed the chrome tips below the rear bumper. We're both suckers for shiny car parts.
 

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Minor updates...

Front Tire Clearance

When the car was aligned, the shop had to adjust the caster and camber to bring it back into spec. This moved the front wheels/tires out and forward, causing interference with the lower front air dam on the passenger side. The driver side was very close, but it didn't actually make contact. Once I got the car up in the air, it was clear what was going on. At some point in the past, one of my relatives (I'm blaming my younger brother) ran up on a high curb and bent the steel support behind the air dam. The town that we grew up in has elevated sidewalks around the city square. I swear, every car in town has a mangled front air dam!

I did my best to straighten the air dam support structure. That helped, but it didn't eliminate the problem. So, out came the cutting wheel. I trimmed the tip off of the back side of the air dam and the underlying support structure. This provided about 3/4" clearance. Just to be safe, I trimmed the driver side to match. Hacking into the air dam didn't cause any heartburn because it was already cracked by whatever bent the support. If my son ever decides to do a complete restoration, he will have to replace the air dam anyway.

Electric to Mechanical Speedometer Adapter

We were blessed with a warmish evening yesterday. So, I dug into the Cable X electric to mechanical speedometer adapter again. The Cable X box appeared to be working correctly, but the speedometer needle was very jumpy. After opening the gauge cluster back up, I removed the speedometer cable and housing. As I expected, the speedometer cable lubricant had gummed up. And, of course, I'm fresh out of brake cleaner. The only "solvent" I had on hand is 87 octane. I hate cleaning parts with gasoline, but it did the trick. Once I got the goo off of the cable and out of the cable housing, cleaned the whole thing with scalding hot water and dish soap. That got rid of all of the flammables and the last of the stickiness. I coated the cable with dry graphite spray and squirted some graphite through the cable housing. That seemed to loosen up the cable nicely. But, the proof, as they say, was in the pudding. After reinstalling the cable, I ran the Cable X through it's test sequence again and the speedometer rose to 8mph and hovered merely. MUCH BETTER!

So, I finished putting the dash back together, and took the car for a test drive around the block. The speedometer shows speed and the needle doesn't bounce around. So, problem solved. Now, once we have the car licensed and the title work done, we'll have to work on calibrating the Cable X box to correct the speedometer reading. During my short test drive, I noticed two things I didn't expect.
  1. The Cable X box doesn't respond as quickly as the stock mechanical cable driven system. When you come to a stop, the speedometer continues to read at 10-15mph for a second or two before it drops to 0. Under normal driving conditions, I doubt this will be much of a problem. When you stop at an intersection, you're not usually staring at your speedometer. If you are, you're doing it wrong!
  2. The VSS readout on the digital multi-gauge looks like it might be usable as a digital speedometer. I think it will need some calibration too, but there is an adjustable "VSS ratio" setting. If it's accurate, my son will have a second option for monitoring his speed. Under 55mph, of course. 😉
What's Next?
I'm not really sure what we'll tackle next. The weather is supposed to go back to winter mode for a while. If we get the occasional warmish day, we'll pick away at the punch list. At some point, the new headliner should arrive. The emergency brake cable is disconnected and I've been avoiding investigating why it's disconnected. The stereo console needs to be finished (Smooth out the edges and add the vinyl covering). And, if we get a few nice days in a row, we need to open up the doors and revive the power locks and windows. They "operate", but they are VERY slow and finicky. After sitting idle for 20 years, everything needs to be cleaned and lubricated. Maybe even new window motors. When spring rolls around, we'll dig into the exterior rust repair. There's plenty to keep us busy.
 
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Need a driving video with sound - new stereo and exhaust to be included 😉
 
Need a driving video with sound - new stereo and exhaust to be included 😉
Ha! I actually thought about posting a short video of the new exhaust. Can a video be uploaded directly (like a photo) or does it need be hosted somewhere like YouTube?
 
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