BUILD THREAD 1985 MC-SS Build Project

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sls1025

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 24, 2017
21
13
VA
Hello All,
Over the years I've had a number of cars (i.e.projects) and have unfortunately had some life event take place that forced me to let the project go. So after many years without some junk taking up the driveway, and looking for something that my son and I could build, I asked him to find us a Monte Carlo SS. It happened he was between cars and we found this 1985 MS-SS that was in fairly good shape, he was going to use the car to get to the commuter lot but picked up a Ford Focus RS so the car was mine to start on. Hopefully, baring any more back surgeries, other illnesses, lay-off's, or world ending events I'll be able to finish this one.

The MC has over 100k on it however the interior was clean and fairly well kept. It ran great but needed valve seals and valve cover gaskets. The L\F fender was creased at the wheel opening and the drivers door was rusted in the rear corner. The only other major rust was the bottom edge of the deck lid. There is some heavy surface rust behind the drivers door just ahead of the wheel opening and both of the bottom edges of the rear inner wheel wells. The floors are in fantastic shape with the exception of the seam where the "floor" behind the rear seat meets the floor going into the trunk (see images). Since all the window seals were leaking, I pulled the carpet and insulation as the carpets were wet and molding.

The plans were for a very reliable, drive anywhere\anytime, vehicle that I can drive to work, give it a wash, then take to a show on Saturday, an Auto-X (once and a while a drag-race) on Sunday, then start the week over. Since we've started collecting parts we've decided we would really like to give 1/2 and standing mile events a try. We have no expectations of being a contender in any single event type since it would be very expensive to build a car that could compete at a competitive level in one or possibly 2 different types of events and maintain day-to-day drive-ability and reliability.

Current Plans;
Engine and Trans;
Shafiroff built LSx 427 (Dart SHP LS Next Long Block) with a single turbo
Bowler or Tick Performance built Tremec T-56 Magnum upgraded internal plumbing with external pump and cooler.
Quick Time bell housing, Sick Speed Monte Clutch kit.

Rear Diff
I already have a Quick Performance 9", thick walled tubing, 35-spline axles, Wavetrak LS, 4.11 gears, Wilwood rear disks. I'm may change the Yukon center section with a Strange center section to include a GearFX internal oil cooling pump system alternately I may find a spot and weld in another bung into the housing then run an external pump and cooler.

Steering and Suspension
I have the SpeedTech Track-Time Suspension system with front Chicane coil-over upgrades, Viking Double adjustable front and rear coils-overs
SpeedTech\ATS spindles and Wilwood C7 front brake kit
I have ordered a SpeedTech steering box and already have the bump steer kit and new tie rod ends, center link etc.

More to follow


IMG_0912.jpgIMG_0911.JPGIMG_0913.jpgIMG_0926.jpgIMG_0936.JPGIMG_0939.JPGIMG_1305.JPGIMG_1307.JPGIMG_1310.JPGIMG_1574.JPG35-spline.jpgKBS.JPGParts Pile.JPGSpeedTech Sway Bar.jpgSpindles.JPG
 
S

sls1025

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 24, 2017
21
13
VA
It has commenced

While I hadn't expected to remove the front steering and suspension prior to pulling the frame; a friend of my son has an MC SS and bent a control arm and my son donated the ones off mine. Not a big deal just forced me to change my plans a bit.
ComingApart1.JPG
ComingApart2.JPG
ComingApart3.JPG
ComingApart4.JPG
Garage.JPG
The Garage.JPG
 
S

sls1025

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 24, 2017
21
13
VA
So after the test fittings and welding I went about cleaning and grinding so that I could apply the KBS rust coatings.

The first step is applying a degreaser and cleaning as best possible. Then spraying the second part which "primes" and etches the metal which also performs its magic on the surface rust.

I then applied the rust seal (Red). I have a Black topcoat to apply over the frame however I want to do the entire frame at one time and decided I will probably keep it red.
Once the frame is out and being strengthened and notched, I'll do a better job smoothing out the frame surfaces and fix some more of the factory welds.

Once that dried I went ahead and bolted up the control arms and coilovers with spindles to make the frame mobile.

I'll need to do a bit more grinding of the frame at the tops of the coilovers where they come through for additional clearance.

I intentionally installed each shock with the adjustment knobs in different directions to see which is easier to get to once everything is bolted back together.

IMG_2056.JPG
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IMG_2064.JPG
KBS Rust Seal - 2.JPG
KBS Rust Seal -1.JPG




Here you can see that I need to grind out a bit more of the frame for the coil overs.


Coil top is too close .JPG

Coil Top to Close .JPG
 
C

CDUNIGAN1981

Apprentice
Mar 15, 2015
70
18
Good Dad!
Lucky Son!

Good luck to the both of you
 
S

sls1025

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 24, 2017
21
13
VA
Good Dad!
Lucky Son!

Good luck to the both of you
Thank you, my son now has 3 projects of his own. In a couple of the pictures you can see a 1965 Mustang and the Jeep XJ which are both his.
He now spends most of his money and time playing with his Focus RS. He has managed to pick up a couple sponsors and does a good deal of shows to support them.
The car is a blast to drive, I have to admit.
I've attached an image of his toy:

FocusRS .jpg
 
C

CDUNIGAN1981

Apprentice
Mar 15, 2015
70
18
Talking about cars that are way more fun to drive than a person would otherwise imagine....

My wife drives a 2012 Outback with a 3.6 Boxer engine
It will smoke many coupes off a stop light and hugs turn like you wouldn't believe
Not to mention... you can't get it stuck

Really fun cars come in many different styles
Having said that, I graduated in 1999 and had many friends driving Hondas... at the time I mocked them but then again I was 17

Actually, I still mock them and I'm 38 but to each their own.
Tuner cars are still better than Xbox's and most drugs
 
S

sls1025

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 24, 2017
21
13
VA
Shafiroff,huh? Haven't heard that name in years..... LS are ridiculously simple; I wouldn't pay that kind of money for one.
Love the chassis work!
Thank you.

While I would much rather build the engine on my own, I have no garage or space to assemble it. Additionally, I do not know of any 'fairly' local machine shops that I would trust to perform the necessary machine work.
Right now my son is checking into the discounts he can get from a couple of his sponsors and the speed shop he works at part time for the parts we are looking at. I was only planning on purchasing a long block from Shafiroff or sending my parts to him for machine work.

I'm still not 100% settled on a block; it will either be the GM LSX block or the Dart SHP Pro LS Next. The block will be modified for piston squirters. Will use all ARP fasteners, 1/2" head studs, etc.

There are a couple of builds I've been looking at emulating:

The first one from Borowski Race but with the 83mm turbo

From Shafiroff the Stage II

There are also a couple I've looked at on other forums.
 
S

sls1025

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 24, 2017
21
13
VA
Some of the other items I have on hand that I need to get to work on at some point.

Here is a picture of my trailer after my first trip down to NC to visit G-body Parts. I picked up the drivers door and fender, cowl hood, new nose cone, trunk lid, and some other odd's and ends I will need.

IMG_0996.JPG


I have a patch panel to replace the spare tire well in the trunk. Additionally, I have a Fuel Safe 22 gallon cell that I plan on centering between the rear frame rails and have it extend down through the floor to the same extent that the original spare tire well extended.


IMG_1912.JPG



To complete the brakes I've picked up a new booster, Ni-Cop lines, and a Wilwood Master Cylinder with proportioning valve.


IMG_1981.JPG




For the interior; I am going to replace the factory AC with a Vintage Air unit. I need a new dash pad but I'm going to have a cage installed and the windshield bars run behind the dash, so I'll need to modify\cut the corners of the dash for the tubes before I get my dash recovered or buy a replacement and modify.

With regards to the instrument cluster; one of the items my son was able to get through one of his sponsors was a Haltech Racepak IQ3S dash. So I purchased a Classic Dash insert to install it. I need to install an AC vent and have one from Classic Auto Air that will fit like the factory one. I also plan on having New-Vintage classics make an indicator panel similar to the factory one for a number of indicators that I want separate from the IQ3S.
As far as controls and switches; I've always like the looks of the GT40 type switches. I worked with Watson's Street Works to have a couple of switch panels made, one for the headlights to install in the dash and one for the power locks and windows to install in the console. Lastly, I'm going to install an Innovate Motorsports Boost and Air Fuel Ratio gauge with Ethanol % and Fuel Temp gauge.

The first image shows the Racepak in the gauge insert and the second is a "poor" rendering I did in MS Paint (don't be too harsh it was my first time)

Dash - 1.JPG



My "poor" rendering

Dash.JPG.png



Switch Layouts

GT4 3 switch Shawn copy.jpg GT4 2 panel Shawn copy.jpg
 

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