1988 Monte Carlo LS ProCharger Build (10/12/21 - Back to Painting, Switching directions for power added)

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
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NW Indiana
Isn't there a screw in option also?
I swear I saw that somewhere posted here?
 
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UC645

Royal Smart Person
Apr 20, 2020
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Kittanning, Pa
Those are pretty snazzy! I have saved the links when i get to that point. I did find out one of my friends has a stud gun, although it is not a uni spotter are all of the tips interchangeable?
I’m not sure to be honest. I have yet to use one and am trying to avoid one to fix my roof.
Isn't there a screw in option also?
I swear I saw that somewhere posted here?
There are, but you’re going to be chipping paint if you install them after primer and if you install them prior to any paint, you’ve got exposed metal under sheet metal threads.
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
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Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
Those are pretty snazzy! I have saved the links when i get to that point. I did find out one of my friends has a stud gun, although it is not a uni spotter are all of the tips interchangeable?

The tips on most are interchangeable. I know mine does.
 
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Burning

Greasemonkey
Jul 9, 2020
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Bardstown, KY
Isn't there a screw in option also?
I swear I saw that somewhere posted here?

These are them, i just didnt like that i would have a area for water to get in again.. Water will always find a way into a penetration.

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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
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NW Indiana
These are them, i just didnt like that i would have a area for water to get in again.. Water will always find a way into a penetration.

View attachment 159425
I would install the screws after epoxy primer then after final painting a little rtv or something similar around the screws to avoid water penetration. Not going to be a daily driver so hopefully that isn't an issue except for washing car
 
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Burning

Greasemonkey
Jul 9, 2020
182
647
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Bardstown, KY
Been a busy last couple days trying to work here and there as i can.

I got the rear stripped down so that i can take the body down to metal. Besides the seam sealer being shot, this car has been incredible that there hasn't been any rust besides at the vinyl top..
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Combination of a wire wheel and paint stripper tool i got the most of the rear up to the rear cowl stripped.
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Ill drop the gas tank tonight and do that last little bit and the rear cowl. Plan is to scuff with 80 grit, wax and grease remover, tack and then spray epoxy on the trunk area to seal it up. Got a little bit more work to do on the roof and then ill do the same to the whole roof area.

These little wheels have been awesome, did the whole back with this one wheel.
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Need to go get some decent carbide cutters for this trim areas before i can continue. Gap looks decent right now, some more fine tuning needed.
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My buddy is coming over sunday and nights next week to start taking off the doors, stripping the back sides and start stripping the shell. Ill pull the motor start stripping the engine bay and filling in unwanted holes while he does that. Plan is to have the back of the trunk lid, jambs, firewall, backside of doors, and back side of hood all stripped to metal and shot in epoxy by the end of next weekend. Hopefully getting the whole car in epoxy by the end of the month.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,710
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Upstate NY
Keep the faith brother! Looks great, but a lot of work in front of you.

I like it!!👍👍
 
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Burning

Greasemonkey
Jul 9, 2020
182
647
93
Bardstown, KY
Keep the faith brother! Looks great, but a lot of work in front of you.

I like it!!👍👍

Just keeps giving me time to aquire go fast goodies lol. I'm currently pricing and gathering all the info i need to rebuild my 80e to take the abuse of about 1000ish crank.
 
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Burning

Greasemonkey
Jul 9, 2020
182
647
93
Bardstown, KY
Didnt get nearly as much as i wanted to get done this weekend.

I did finish stripping the rear trunk area, so thats ready to be sprayed. Went to remove the front windshield no dice with any of my tools... sooo next best thing, my 13 sized boot through the inside lol.

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The window has been reglued at some point and they used a MASSIVE amount of sealant that i couldnt get through with wire or with my window blade on the sawsall. The windshield has already started delaminating in some places so it was going to be replaced anyways.

Sunday we got a late start and my buddy on the way sent me a link to a motor for sale they had just been posted. 2011 5.3 with lifter noise for $200 bucks. So as soon as he got to my house we left and were on our way 4 hours round trip (old lady was pissed about skipping on the pot roast she was currently making). Got there and to my suprise it was a old man who just wanted to get rid of it as was taking up room in his garage. Came intake to oil pan minus the power steering pump and alt. I was hoping it was the LC9 aluminum block for the weight savings, but it was actually a Iron block and is considered a LMG. Its a Gen4 DOD/AFM 5.3 with 243 Heads and the NNBS intake. SOOO i took a gamble on it just being a failed lifter thats common on these DOD motors knowing that if the bearings were locked up that i could sell the 243 heads and make double my money back.

we didnt waste any time when we got back stripping it down, lone behold it was what we thought. So im gonna run this block now and keep my other one as a back up!

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On a side note i have a new 3 stage air filter/water mitigation system coming for my compressor on tuesday so hopefully ill be shooting some primer!
 
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