thanks for the info. so what would be the best pair of haeds to go with? i was thinking bout porting and polishing the heads and putting bigger valves on it. from what ur telling me, it stili wont be possible right? i was thinking about going 202 on the valves.
1st gen 350, vortec head questions??
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The vortec heads are a great head. They have the LT1 port and combustion chamber design. They have great low and mid range power. Chevy High Performance has done some good articles on them. I think Car Craft and Hot Rod have as well. I did a ton of research before I bought mine. A brand new pair of cylinder heads completely built was like $550 and were out flowing off the shelf bow tie heads. If I remember right you won't gain a lot of power from putting 202 160 valves in it with porting. I know there is a 180cc version out there, just check out the Jegs and Scoggin Dickey sites. 180cc intake runner would probalby get you close to 500hp naturally aspirated out of a 383 with the right cam. Do remember this, the bigger the cam and the bigger the heads the less low and torque you will make. with a 383 you will be able to get away with more than on a 350. You will also want to match the torque converter with the cam and head combo. You may want to talk to the cam company you want to use, as well as a cylinder head company and converter manufacturer. A car that has more low and mid range power with a great power curve will be more fun to drive on the street that a car that has a high peak horsepower peak that is up in the rpm range. Do you already have the heads or will you be purchasing all new parts?
well im getting a good running motor 350 with intake carb and msd distributor. its basically stock imma use it for a while and start getting parts little by little. when i sell another project that i had then ill tear it down and do everything. im hoping to get 4 to 5 grand for the other car. whatever parts i get before i sell the car. will be less things i need to get with the 5 grand. ill be spraying the skoc one with 100 shot till i build it again.
with that kinda budget u can get a whole forged stroker kit, machine work, and some badass heads. but even with 5500 invested in a motor it will be hard to get 550 to 650 to the wheels on a small block. 7k and u got it. i think with a good 4k invested in a motor u can squeeze out 400 to the wheels and hit it with a 200 shot. u really need to go to a machine shop and tell them want u want out of a motor. 550 is alot to put down to the wheels all motor. ur talkin 4bolt main block, of course, depending on how much spray ur gonna use will determine what type of crank u will need. but can get a whole forged stroker kit for 1500 or less. depending on how much work the block needs u will spend another 500 at least getting it prepped for the kit. then u gotta figure what h/c/i ur gonna use. what nitrous kit, carb, u gotta have a bullet proof drivetrain that can handle 550 motor plus what ever u plan on spraying it with. but personally if i were to ever build a small block with that much power would definitely contact a good performance shop.[/quote]
that sounds pretty good to me 400 and a 200shot i think it will be good for now i say for now cuz we are never satisfide
that sounds pretty good to me 400 and a 200shot i think it will be good for now i say for now cuz we are never satisfide
what brand stroker kit do u guys suggest in the 1500 price range? i havent seen any forged ones going for the price. iv seen them going for 1800. the 383 full rotating assembly.
If you want 550-650 from a small block, you'll want an aftermarket block otherwise it won't live long, so you're already out $1,500+, which is on the cheap end... for something like a Bowtie or Little M block you're at $2,100. You'll also be lookin' at aftermarket heads for that kind of power (unless you know someone who is REALLY good with factory heads, even then it's iffy), so expect 1,000+ for those. Rotating assembly (10-11:1 comp.), ~$1,500+. You're up to $4,000. You still haven't chosen a camshaft/lifter set, timing set, distributor, intake, carburetor, oil pump, tin (timing/valve covers, oil pan, etc.), water pump, gaskets, sealant, or (the most important part) machine work & balancing. The more power you make, the harder it is to make it on a budget with a traditional SBC... LS motors do it a lot easier, but it's still pricey. Your best bet is to shoot for 450-500 with an SBC and build it right, which is doable under 5k.
400 to 450 HP seems reasonable. Check out Scats website. They have tons of rotating assemblies. They can also help you with what your intentions are. if you are spraying the engine you at least need the forged pistons and good rods. 200 hp it would be good idea for the forged crank as well, especially if you plan to use the spray every weekend. Speed o motive also does stroker kits. They also sell complete long blocks and short blocks as does Scat. In my engine I have the Scat forged crank and H-beam rods. If i am right the pistons are JE.
Any build with nitrous in mind I would go forged everything. Splayed main caps are a must imo, and do your research on nitrous engine builds.
yes do as much research on nitrous engines as possible and try to get some help with someone with exp. im 21 and have been playing with nitrous since i was 16 and have destroyed 4 motors. i would buy cheap bottom ends to play with. and learn. usually the pistons and rods crap out before the block or crank. on one of those stockers with a 200 shot the mains were scared from walking but the block held together. once i got comfortable with nitrous a few yrs back i started building my motors to handle it. u need at least forged pistons and rods. my current n02 motor im running a 2 bolt main block studded mains, (the only 4 bolt main ford blocks are boss so i just use the 2bolt sucks i know but its held together for 2yrs) forged crank, forged i beans, forged srp. and i hit it with a 200 shot. hyper are okay for like a 75 shot or a 150 shot every once and while. but for the price u can get a set of forged for a lil more. and i dont care what people say a/f monitors wont help with n02. by the time the monitor notices ur motor is leaning out the damage has been done and then some.
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