4Door350 said:
that is actually where i was gonna get it from. i was just going to get the governor, i already have a trans go shift kit in it so i assume it should be okay valve body wise
200r4 governor
- Thread starter ERIC87442
- Start date
- Status
that is actually where i was gonna get it from. i was just going to get the governor, i already have a trans go shift kit in it so i assume it should be okay valve body wise
Can somebody explain how the governor in the 200-4r works?
I know that the governor does effect drivability by controlling the time that the transmission stays in a particular gear at part throttle. I also know that the governor also controls the WOT shift points.
What I don't know is how it actually accomplishes this. I know that the that the GN governor is lighter than the standard governor and this causes the transmission to stay in gear longer at part throttle and also cause the higher WOT shift points.
What would happen to the WOT shift point if a second spring was added to the GN governor?
I know that the governor does effect drivability by controlling the time that the transmission stays in a particular gear at part throttle. I also know that the governor also controls the WOT shift points.
What I don't know is how it actually accomplishes this. I know that the that the GN governor is lighter than the standard governor and this causes the transmission to stay in gear longer at part throttle and also cause the higher WOT shift points.
What would happen to the WOT shift point if a second spring was added to the GN governor?
it's been awhile since i looked at one, hopefully i remember it correctly...
the gov is driven off the tailshaft, as RPM's increase the gov arms try to swing outward (the more weight, the earlier and farther they move), this movement is also limited/slowed down by the springs. as the arms move outward they push on a (pair of?) check ball. as the ball moves in, it allows ATF to flow around it instead of through the main system. this fluid dumps to the pan and drops the line pressure.
so the stiffer the springs or the lighter the weights, the less bypass and the higher the line pressure. higher line pressure=later and harder shifts.
i have heard of people replacing the springs with solid rods or welding the check ball hole shut, but this may be for racing only. i don't know if it's ok for the street. but i don't see why not, it will give you extremely hard shifts which may not be comfortable, but they don't necessarily damage the trans (IIRC they actually preserve the clutches and bands). and the line pressure will still be controlled by the TV assembly.
the gov is driven off the tailshaft, as RPM's increase the gov arms try to swing outward (the more weight, the earlier and farther they move), this movement is also limited/slowed down by the springs. as the arms move outward they push on a (pair of?) check ball. as the ball moves in, it allows ATF to flow around it instead of through the main system. this fluid dumps to the pan and drops the line pressure.
so the stiffer the springs or the lighter the weights, the less bypass and the higher the line pressure. higher line pressure=later and harder shifts.
i have heard of people replacing the springs with solid rods or welding the check ball hole shut, but this may be for racing only. i don't know if it's ok for the street. but i don't see why not, it will give you extremely hard shifts which may not be comfortable, but they don't necessarily damage the trans (IIRC they actually preserve the clutches and bands). and the line pressure will still be controlled by the TV assembly.
Thanks for the info! Controlling the line pressure makes sense to me, although the weights on the 200-4r gov are pushed out by the springs and are normally in the "out" position. It's sort of counter intuitive to me, In other transmissions that I've seen the weights spin out at higher rpm's thus controlling the shift points.
- Status
Similar threads
