If this was a Mopar forum I could have guys drooling over his “collection “ of stuff. 250+ cars, trucks, and then the parts. But I like my g body cars!
2019 Challenger Widebooty HellKitty (she's giving me the meatsweats...)
- Thread starter motorheadmike
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Started the wiring tonight.
Let's hope I get this right.
Let's hope I get this right.
After attending a Zoom meeting with Baseball Canada for little league I spent two solid hours making this bracket and routing/terminating the wires. Bought some electrical fabric tape to see how I like it over braided nylon sleeves or corrugated tube.
Hot pink hockey tape would have worked too.
Hot pink hockey tape would have worked too.
Hard to believe there are bundles of new wires under here. Not too bad.
The wiring is complete... and everything verks. At least in so far as the power comes on as it should. Push a button it does a thing.
There is a momentary switch for the purge and the meth pump (for testing). It was impressively hard to find a switched 12V source in this car. The solution was to tap into the CIG/ACCY fuse... I had to build my own splitter. Eventually I will add a nice big relay and have the means to split off a bunch of key-on circuits. But for now this is good enough.
I managed to get the IDC % reading to the Snow controller so that should be awesome for having a bit of extra insurance for the nitrous activation. Its wired to use boost and IDC as reference and a WOT switch at the gas pedal to ensure that the nitrous only comes on when all the parameters are met. So think 60+% IDC, 10psi, and floored. The idea here is to prevent hitting the spray on a missed shift or power shifting (if I ever get so brave).
Made a cute little adjustable bracket to hold the micro switch.
Lines are run and shielded. Unfortunately I ran out of 1/2" corrugated conduit, I will pick some up later this week.
Now you see it, now you don't.
The only thing I am missing now is a tank. Walmart has disappointed me, so it looks like I am building one.
There is a momentary switch for the purge and the meth pump (for testing). It was impressively hard to find a switched 12V source in this car. The solution was to tap into the CIG/ACCY fuse... I had to build my own splitter. Eventually I will add a nice big relay and have the means to split off a bunch of key-on circuits. But for now this is good enough.
I managed to get the IDC % reading to the Snow controller so that should be awesome for having a bit of extra insurance for the nitrous activation. Its wired to use boost and IDC as reference and a WOT switch at the gas pedal to ensure that the nitrous only comes on when all the parameters are met. So think 60+% IDC, 10psi, and floored. The idea here is to prevent hitting the spray on a missed shift or power shifting (if I ever get so brave).
Made a cute little adjustable bracket to hold the micro switch.
Lines are run and shielded. Unfortunately I ran out of 1/2" corrugated conduit, I will pick some up later this week.
Now you see it, now you don't.
The only thing I am missing now is a tank. Walmart has disappointed me, so it looks like I am building one.
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Two gallon meth tank: complete. This was my first attempt at this kind of thing. It was pretty easy overall. .080" wall sheet, .125" at the bungs and mounting brackets, and the fill neck was from Amazon (came anodized and welded like sh*t). Just need to prime and test the system now.
Design philosophy:
The goals here were to have lots of capacity. Like long-@ss road trips and not having to think about running out capacity. Plus, I am lazy. Propane last forever and I rarely have to service it. Lazy.
The tank is level in the car and the pick-up is in the back left corner to account for weight transfer.
The head of the pump is at/below the bottom of the tank/pick-up... I am pretty sure this reduces the lift-load on the pump.
Things I didn't do or do yet:
Float level switch. I wired for this, but I think it is pretty unnecessary given the volume. Plus, this keeps two wires open for other projects.
Internal baffling. Again capacity and design negates this need in drag racing or mile runs. But, if I ever get into road racing I will revisit the possibility.
Design philosophy:
The goals here were to have lots of capacity. Like long-@ss road trips and not having to think about running out capacity. Plus, I am lazy. Propane last forever and I rarely have to service it. Lazy.
The tank is level in the car and the pick-up is in the back left corner to account for weight transfer.
The head of the pump is at/below the bottom of the tank/pick-up... I am pretty sure this reduces the lift-load on the pump.
Things I didn't do or do yet:
Float level switch. I wired for this, but I think it is pretty unnecessary given the volume. Plus, this keeps two wires open for other projects.
Internal baffling. Again capacity and design negates this need in drag racing or mile runs. But, if I ever get into road racing I will revisit the possibility.
So I'll show my 'rookie-ness'..... 🤔
Are there no repercussions using Methanol as far as the blower internals go? It won't/doesn't hurt/impact seals or eat away @ the materials (rotors or case)?
Are there no repercussions using Methanol as far as the blower internals go? It won't/doesn't hurt/impact seals or eat away @ the materials (rotors or case)?
Can't help but be nervous for your head gaskets at the thought of the tank/pump being in the trunk and the long distance the juice has to travel.
Does the system have a prime/test button that you can try whenever you like and some kind of anti-drain back valve?
Does the system have a prime/test button that you can try whenever you like and some kind of anti-drain back valve?
From my research none of that will be a problem. Hellcat owners just don't do much with pre-rotor meth or water/meth injection. NX came out with a lid and there are direct port spacers with spray bars... but, not much pre-rotor. However, the LSA/LS9 crowd do lots of pre-rotor injection. As do folks with Whipples, Maggies, and the like. Not sure about the Terminator/GT500s... but, probably the same. I am not planning on spraying a lot and I am going to run either straight methanol or a 90/10 mix with water (by weight) if I need the added cooling. Methanol is only corrosive if it is exposed to oxygen (and allowed to stagnate) which is why having a sealed cell is paramount to not having it break the aluminum down, and when vapourized doesn't sit in the supercharger long enough to matter. As an example I attached a PDF that shows the effects on different metals and alloys. As for the risks of mechanical damage or stripping coatings - doubtful. It's only being used for seconds at a time at best and is fully vapourized (like water grains on a humid day) - so unless there is a microscopic mechanical abrasion that occurs, worse than the rotors already bedding into themselves as they are designed to do with a sacrificial coating from the factory, again I doubt it being a problem. Of course I am throwing some risk at this.
For what it is worth a 50/50 mix of water meth is considered to be inert (non-flammable).
It is a 300psi pump, it should be good for pushing that distance through a -4 AN line. It is not uncommon to do a rear mounted pump in a car - the TR world just loves putting them underhood because of the repurposed over-follow tank. I did add a test button, it is a green button like the blue one from the video so I can prime the system or use it for some pre-run IAT cooling (I used to do this with my TR all the time). And yes, there is an anti-drain back/siphon valve just behind the DS front tire. As for the head gaskets, this is only supplemental for octane and cooling, and represents a very small amount of fuel (I am guessing less than 5%, but I can verify later). The primary nozzle is a #2 and is rated at 100mL/min (which is about 13.25lbs/hr) at full song. The operating system is full-time closed loop with dual widebands. The cars are very rich EQ ratio-wise in the stock tune so even if it went lean it would be very safe and would rapidly adjust to the drop in fuel.
Obviously, I am not going to screw around with the nitrous and will be adding a bit more fuel to match the 25hp shot I am planning (which will translate to 35-50hp on this car because of the PD blower). But, again - in theory - all within the safe thresholds of the stock tune and fuel system if the methanol cacks while the nitrous is on. You can safely go to a 3.17" pulley on these cars (upwards of an 80hp) gain on the stock fuel system and tune without consequence.
Have you ever thought about an interchiller setup?
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