In regards to the large hose from the bottom/front of the carb; is it going to a PCV valve in that #1 intake runner or just a fitting?
307 runs when it wants, is it running too rich?
- Thread starter TheBandit203
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TheBandit203 said:
Then that is not right. That hose off your carb should be going to a PCV valve on your valve cover ( passenger side on a stock G-Body with Olds engine but it doesn't matter ).
Now anybody here correct me if I'm wrong, but if you got that hose going to a fitting there, then I can't see that being a good thing in any way. I mean, what's it's purpose? It would be useless at best and detrimental at worst. I just don't see a benefit to doing that. If I were you, I'd install a PCV valve in the valve cover like everyone else and be done with it.
The way I see it, you need to;
1) Tune your carb. That's just a no-brainer.
2) Reduce fuel pressure.
3) Verify TOTAL timing. 20* base timing is the setting for your stock CCC setup, not necessarily with your non CCC setup. What if your non CCC distributor is giving you 24* mechanical advance? You'd have 44* total timing if you had your base timing set at 20*. That's too much.
4) Fix choke and set it right.
As DoubleV & the rest said you have 4 - 5 steps to take. But instead of tuning carb first I'd get the fuel pressure down to 4 - 6 psi, the carb tuning may actually be close or right where it should be BUT with 10psi you'd never know (that's almost TBI pressure).
Next I'd hook the PCV port to an actual PCV valve in the valve cover if possible. Having just a fitting / PCV in that intake port is no good (unless that was a VERY OLD OE intake from yester-year, I have seen them but can't remember an OE Olds application). I mean, in that intake port you're basically pulling raw fuel and air back into the carb b/c it's pulling vacuum, and disrupting the flow into the intake port of the head.
Next I'd dial the carb in, using the detailed instructions from earlier, along with getting the choke working properly - you said the carb was rebuilt at a shop, shouldn't they have ensured the choke worked?
Hope all the info helps and keep us informed.
Next I'd hook the PCV port to an actual PCV valve in the valve cover if possible. Having just a fitting / PCV in that intake port is no good (unless that was a VERY OLD OE intake from yester-year, I have seen them but can't remember an OE Olds application). I mean, in that intake port you're basically pulling raw fuel and air back into the carb b/c it's pulling vacuum, and disrupting the flow into the intake port of the head.
Next I'd dial the carb in, using the detailed instructions from earlier, along with getting the choke working properly - you said the carb was rebuilt at a shop, shouldn't they have ensured the choke worked?
Hope all the info helps and keep us informed.
No the original choke was the temp choke that ran off the heat of the intake manifold. How can I lower the fuel pressure?
Ok I bought a pcv last night I will see if it works today. Is it me or this doesn't look like the part i need?
The PCV is a good idea but I don't think it's going to fix your rich running problem. Think about it for a second; There is manifold vacuum at the PCV port on the carb. There is also manifold vacuum in the runner where the fitting is. Basically, they just cancel each other out. You still should put the PCV in the correct spot though.
1. Your fuel pressure is too high.
2. Your choke needs to be hooked back up and properly adjusted.
Until you address the issues above, there is no need to try to adjust the carb.
1. Your fuel pressure is too high.
2. Your choke needs to be hooked back up and properly adjusted.
Until you address the issues above, there is no need to try to adjust the carb.
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