454 build(slow)

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When considering piston domes you also have to figure in deck height which I run 9.78 which puts mine at zero, you don't want your pistons down in a hole and usually used heads will need some milling to get them perfectly flat again which will change the cc of the head.
Most likely your head gasket will be around .039 thick (standard Fel-Pro)
I'm thinking the piston head volume will be closer to -21.00cc to -24.00cc range once your machine work is done.
If you are planning on buying new rods also and since you already need a crank and pistons I would try to find a balanced rotating assembly kit which will save the additional cost of balancing(could be 200-300+) than if you gather separate components from different vendors.
 
Sound like a good build so far. When I spun my bearings I did a mild quick build.

Bored 30 over
Replaced the peanut port heads with 781 heads w/stock manifolds
stock rods and crank
trwl2399 pistons
Felpro MLS gasket .041
Comp Cam 11-208-3 duration 280/280. Lift 520/520
For fun a 125 wet shot

Not to big but still fun enough. Some say I will dyno it.
 
565bbchevy said:
When considering piston domes you also have to figure in deck height which I run 9.78 which puts mine at zero, you don't want your pistons down in a hole and usually used heads will need some milling to get them perfectly flat again which will change the cc of the head.
Most likely your head gasket will be around .039 thick (standard Fel-Pro)
I'm thinking the piston head volume will be closer to -21.00cc to -24.00cc range once your machine work is done.
If you are planning on buying new rods also and since you already need a crank and pistons I would try to find a balanced rotating assembly kit which will save the additional cost of balancing(could be 200-300+) than if you gather separate components from different vendors.
I have the 9.78" deck, not the mythical tall deck 454.The block has not been milled but the heads I am gonna use have been milled .003 I think and they have only 200 miles since so I dont need to re-mill them. So the stock 119-122cc is probably alittle high for my calculations but im not sure how far its off. When I did the compression check I didnt keep in mind that the block needs milled still 😳 Im hoping I can get my heads done in the next couple weeks so I can cc them to figure out exactly where im at.
 
454cutlass said:
Sound like a good build so far. When I spun my bearings I did a mild quick build.

Bored 30 over
Replaced the peanut port heads with 781 heads w/stock manifolds
stock rods and crank
trwl2399 pistons
Felpro MLS gasket .041
Comp Cam 11-208-3 duration 280/280. Lift 520/520
For fun a 125 wet shot

Not to big but still fun enough. Some say I will dyno it.
I thought about using that cam and a few others from Comp but decided on something closer to a .540-.550" lift from Lunati. Alot of my friends and family that race recomend using Lunati and I have heard nothing but good things from them. I also like how they are based out of Mississippi and not overseas. Have you had a chance to get yours to the track? If so what "ballpark" did you run in if you dont mind me asking.
 
The top end is the biggest killer of BBC,your going to need bronze guides in a stock head with SS valves and proper Valve Train Geometry.And valve springs to match the cam set at proper seat lbs.But hay don't bore a Big block .060 if it only needs 30 your not gain much,and if you don't put bronze guides and SS valves in stock head you might want tobe able to rebore if needed.

A good friend built a 468 years ago with stock head casting all new but one ext used SS ext valve it was on back order lol. This engine was done to the nuts with gear but with one reused valve,Fired it up and stared backing it up to put in the car hauler and just shut off.this was bad lost block hole in bore,the 292 head was gone piston and rod all gone over a used SS valve not a stock valve.
 
larryo454 said:
The top end is the biggest killer of BBC,your going to need bronze guides in a stock head with SS valves and proper Valve Train Geometry.And valve springs to match the cam set at proper seat lbs.But hay don't bore a Big block .060 if it only needs 30 your not gain much,and if you don't put bronze guides and SS valves in stock head you might want tobe able to rebore if needed.

A good friend built a 468 years ago with stock head casting all new but one ext used SS ext valve it was on back order lol. This engine was done to the nuts with gear but with one reused valve,Fired it up and stared backing it up to put in the car hauler and just shut off.this was bad lost block hole in bore,the 292 head was gone piston and rod all gone over a used SS valve not a stock valve.
The only part of the build im not doing is the head work because I know a guy that can get it done pretty cheap and im not trained on splayed valves. The heads will get new guides, seats and 2.19/1.88 valves. The springs I have are good up to a .650" lift cam so im good there. Im not sure what valve he will get me but he builds race engines all the time so I have faith that he knows what hes doing.
 
-83MONTESS- said:
larryo454 said:
The top end is the biggest killer of BBC,your going to need bronze guides in a stock head with SS valves and proper Valve Train Geometry.And valve springs to match the cam set at proper seat lbs.But hay don't bore a Big block .060 if it only needs 30 your not gain much,and if you don't put bronze guides and SS valves in stock head you might want tobe able to rebore if needed.

A good friend built a 468 years ago with stock head casting all new but one ext used SS ext valve it was on back order lol. This engine was done to the nuts with gear but with one reused valve,Fired it up and stared backing it up to put in the car hauler and just shut off.this was bad lost block hole in bore,the 292 head was gone piston and rod all gone over a used SS valve not a stock valve.
The only part of the build im not doing is the head work because I know a guy that can get it done pretty cheap and im not trained on splayed valves. The heads will get new guides, seats and 2.19/1.88 valves. The springs I have are good up to a .650" lift cam so im good there. Im not sure what valve he will get me but he builds race engines all the time so I have faith that he knows what hes doing.

That's good to know that your trusting some one with the heads who build race engines. Because GM don't make the big block any more that sucks and it kills me to see block pop lol
 
-83MONTESS- said:
454cutlass said:
Sound like a good build so far. When I spun my bearings I did a mild quick build.

Bored 30 over
Replaced the peanut port heads with 781 heads w/stock manifolds
stock rods and crank
trwl2399 pistons
Felpro MLS gasket .041
Comp Cam 11-208-3 duration 280/280. Lift 520/520
For fun a 125 wet shot

Not to big but still fun enough. Some say I will dyno it.
I thought about using that cam and a few others from Comp but decided on something closer to a .540-.550" lift from Lunati. Alot of my friends and family that race recomend using Lunati and I have heard nothing but good things from them. I also like how they are based out of Mississippi and not overseas. Have you had a chance to get yours to the track? If so what "ballpark" did you run in if you dont mind me asking.

If I change cams would probably go with lunati. Nearest track is a good two hours away. I have no tow rig or trailer. Can't drive it with 389gears and a three speed. Will hopefully make it there someday soon. For now it is just a weekend toy to cruise in
 
larryo454 said:
-83MONTESS- said:
larryo454 said:
The top end is the biggest killer of BBC,your going to need bronze guides in a stock head with SS valves and proper Valve Train Geometry.And valve springs to match the cam set at proper seat lbs.But hay don't bore a Big block .060 if it only needs 30 your not gain much,and if you don't put bronze guides and SS valves in stock head you might want tobe able to rebore if needed.

A good friend built a 468 years ago with stock head casting all new but one ext used SS ext valve it was on back order lol. This engine was done to the nuts with gear but with one reused valve,Fired it up and stared backing it up to put in the car hauler and just shut off.this was bad lost block hole in bore,the 292 head was gone piston and rod all gone over a used SS valve not a stock valve.
The only part of the build im not doing is the head work because I know a guy that can get it done pretty cheap and im not trained on splayed valves. The heads will get new guides, seats and 2.19/1.88 valves. The springs I have are good up to a .650" lift cam so im good there. Im not sure what valve he will get me but he builds race engines all the time so I have faith that he knows what hes doing.

That's good to know that your trusting some one with the heads who build race engines. Because GM don't make the big block any more that sucks and it kills me to see block pop lol


not to get off topic but gm is producing new factory big block crate engines. 427, 454, 502 and more. not cheap but they are making them.
http://store.chevroletperformance.com/s ... g%20Blocks
 
I looke at the crate engines but too much for me and I need a project for High Perf Engine Building class.
 
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