455 swap maybe???

[Blake442]

Not sure what mythical swap meets you go to MrSony, but these motors don't grow on trees like small block Chevy's...
They also aren't just giving them away at the junkyards, if you can even find one that is...
Labor also isn't cheap. Sure, you could probably find a cheaper motor, but it will only be good as a core and will need all the machine work, negating any savings you thought you were ahead...
Machined block, new pistons and fresh heads sounds like a fair price to me.
455's are fun, and the swap from a 307 couldn't be easier! Get to work!

 

[MrSony]

Not sure what mythical swap meets you go to MrSony, but these motors don't grow on trees like small block Chevy's...
They also aren't just giving them away at the junkyards, if you can even find one that is...
Labor also isn't cheap. Sure, you could probably find a cheaper motor, but it will only be good as a core and will need all the machine work, negating any savings you thought you were ahead...
Machined block, new pistons and fresh heads sounds like a fair price to me.
455's are fun, and the swap from a 307 couldn't be easier! Get to work!

There are always BOP stuff at swap meets on craigslist and at random mom and pop exhaust shops and junkyards. Especialy g body stuff. I live near the Iowa state fair grounds and you can't swing a dead cat around here without hitting a hobby stock or a thunder car. Hell, three houses in front of me this poor regal with a built 455 Buick is just sitting in a guys backyard covered in bird sh*t. At Yaws auto Salvage a few miles from me there were 3 307 cars, 4 455 cars two had the455 left, one had the heads left (that one of which was a toro I nabbed an 800cfm qjet off of), and a a car with the short block of a 350 left in it. Yes, you'd be hardpressed to find a freshly machined short block at a swap meet, but I've seen it. And like I said, it's just me. I'd rather an engine together than one that's in boxes that someone else has monkeyed with.

 

[Kennybill]

G heads are 1970, Ga are 1971. Small valved (2" intake) C, E, G, Ga are all pretty close in stock form. That's not a bad price if all the bolts are there. I would prefer a engine with fresh machine work and put it together myself. Do you know the machine shop that did the work? Make sure it has new cam bearings installed. Basically your paying for the new pistons and the machining, the core engine is free. Put a new stock oil pump with new oil pump shaft. Check your clearances. Buy Bill Travados book. Using a stock oil pump and stock pan it'll be fine. Cleanliness is a must putting an engine together. Put a Comps Cam (small torque cam) stay under. 500 lift and your stock rockers and bridges will be fine. Keep rpms under 5000. One builds for torque with stock heads. Always be straight when burning out, don't try any circle burnouts like tv. 7.5 rearend will hold up if not abused, I'd upgrade your axles. Jmo.

 

[H/O84]

7.5 rearend will hold up if not abused, I'd upgrade your axles

My car is an 84 Hurst olds so I have the 8.5 with 3.73 gears.

So I'm not sure if the popular opinion is to get a stock used running one or the ready to assemble one?

 

[pagrunt]

I would go with the ready to assemble. This way you'll know what is in it, how it was done, & done your way.

 

[Clutch]

If you can get A-body valve covers it makes life a lot easier

thats my A-body valve covers and toro pan after I heated it and beat the axel indent out for oil retern

 

[Clutch]

If you can get A-body valve covers it makes life a lot easierView attachment 64937thats my A-body valve covers and toro pan after I heated it and beat the axel indent out for oil retern

I used a 72 W-30 gm crate motor and a m-21 with Hooker super comp headers

 

[olds307 and 403]

A 455 apart is a good thing, measure everything when it goes back together. If those are forged pistons, it adds to the value. Those manifold's suck, no better than your current manifold's. I personally think it is the weight of the crank, rods and pistons in a 455 is the issue, the Olds 350 has basically 0 oiling and bottom end issues. You will need notched valve covers to clear the Hyvac and maybe the booster as well. The Olds 350 and 403 is a true bolt in and a nice power improvement. People want $700 for knocking 455's or smog motors. I almost picked up one for $500 but is was a 76 smog motor with dreaded J heads, it sold for $400. I picked up my last great running 76 Olds 350 for $120.

 

[Clutch]

View attachment 64938 I used a 72 W-30 gm crate motor and a m-21 with Hooker super comp headers

You can use stock valve covers I did it with a different 455 in this car when it was an automatic but the motor was converted to an ajust able valve train and I could not get the right side valve cover off in the car it sucked but it was fast for a cheep build 455 auto with air and Cruse lots of fun

 

[H/O84]

From what I have read I thought the oiling issue was the oil passages allows the oil to get up to the top end faster than it can get back down. I also read that people install cam bearing oil restrictors to help keep some more oil I'm the pan