7.5 to 8.5 rear driveshaft question

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Not to side track this thread too much further, but on the topic of hard to find vibration- I had a slight vibration problem that was kicking my *ss basically. We balanced everything twice... rotated tires, double checked road force variation with the balancer, etc. and it ended up being a front brake disk that was out of balance. I knew the disks were getting old and right at the wear limit so I didn't feel bad taking a chance installing new ones. The new ones cured the vibration issue.
 
Well of course that makes sense, as the metal wears off the rotor it becomes more unbalanced.I had this problem with my pickup it had a vibration on the highway and i had new tires balanced and installed but it did not go away until i changed the front rotors because they were old. I have all new brakes all around on my car, rotors, calipers, pads, drums, shoes and spring kits and even new wheel cylinders. I did all the work myself and the car stops on a dime.
 
don't forget the thinner the rotor is (assuming yours have been turned atleast once) the easier it is to heat warp a rotor (just ask Grand Cherokee owners with those stupid composite rotors that seem to warp just staring too hard at them). Regaurdless what increases teh runout on a rotor ... it will cause vibration issues. Vibration diagnosis sucks *ss. It's often hard to isolate ... especially in older cars where stuff seems to be loose everywhere anyways.

BTW, if you could SEE noticible dents in the driveshaft - I'm a tad surprised they even tried to balance it. I second the GN driveshaft for simplicity ... buy it and some good U-joints be done with it. Why cut something that doesn't need cut?
 
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