BUILD THREAD '78 Cutlass Supreme Lichen Edition
- Thread starter doood
- Start date
I think the N90s will look good, personally I'm not a chrome guy but sounds like a cool plan to me
I'm putting together a plan to lift the body off the frame, maybe an inch or less, using these floor jacks. The car is currently supported by the wheels on four ramps and the wheels are chocked. I'm going to bolt 2 floor jacks to a 2x8 plank to extend the footprint; the floor jacks will be spaced ~5 ft apart and placed under the pinch weld. I will fold the upper platform of the Jack into a u-channel that will receive a 2x4 that will span the two jacks along the entire pinch weld. I could probably bolt pieces of L iron instead of bending the platform. I will bolt the 2x4 through the bent pieces (holes exist), or L iron. I will run a circular saw down the 2x4 half an inch deep or screw strips into the 2x4 to grab the pinch weld. I will loosen all body mounts leaving them several threads engaged. I may use a single Jack under the rear quarter panel on that pinch weld (similar use of planks and 2x4).
I will remove the inner fenders of the front wheels. I will unbolt the rag joint. I will unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and leave it supported by the brake lines or tie it off. I will remove the bumpers and the bumper fillers. I may remove or move the radiator and AC condenser, since I have to patch the core support (rotten under petcock).
I will then slowly screw these jacks up into the pinch weld and lift the body perhaps an inch. I will take pieces of 2x4s and jam them in between the body and the frame at regular intervals so I don't lose my fingers when I'm farking with getting the old mounts out and the new ones in.
If you think this is a reasonable plan give it a like, and if you have suggestions please give them.
I will remove the inner fenders of the front wheels. I will unbolt the rag joint. I will unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and leave it supported by the brake lines or tie it off. I will remove the bumpers and the bumper fillers. I may remove or move the radiator and AC condenser, since I have to patch the core support (rotten under petcock).
I will then slowly screw these jacks up into the pinch weld and lift the body perhaps an inch. I will take pieces of 2x4s and jam them in between the body and the frame at regular intervals so I don't lose my fingers when I'm farking with getting the old mounts out and the new ones in.
If you think this is a reasonable plan give it a like, and if you have suggestions please give them.
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I want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly: you want to lift the car with the screw jacks pictured above? Doesn't the square platform also turn with the threaded shaft? It appears that the two halves thread together with the operator turning the platform to adjust the height, then locking it in place with a jam nut. That won't work if the body is secured in a channel that's part of the platform unless you twist the base to lift. I think.
You may be creating extra work in the name of safety as well, but that's ok. Shop safety is vastly underrated. I didn't disconnect much if anything when doing the Elk mounts, and don't see a big benefit to removing the bumpers aside from doing the required patchwork. The coiled brake lines have plenty of flex to allow the body to rise the required amount above stock height (about 1/8" worked), and I might've even left the steering shaft connected as well. Placing wood between the body and frame provides an opportunity for things to get jammed and would also put your fingers in the danger zone more often, but I completely understand where you're coming from. I'm a risk-taker and trusted the jack to not blow out but also only removed one bushing at a time so the body could never fall anyway.
My recommendation is to use a 2.5 or 3 ton hydraulic floor jack if possible, with a long grooved 2x4 on top, and using 2 jacks would be better.
Or using a H.F. crossbeam between the single jack & lumber would provide additional stability as well as height adjustability at each end. I also understand that buying the jack and beam could be about $300 though. I used a single jack and board but can't recommend the beam enough now that I have one.
You may be creating extra work in the name of safety as well, but that's ok. Shop safety is vastly underrated. I didn't disconnect much if anything when doing the Elk mounts, and don't see a big benefit to removing the bumpers aside from doing the required patchwork. The coiled brake lines have plenty of flex to allow the body to rise the required amount above stock height (about 1/8" worked), and I might've even left the steering shaft connected as well. Placing wood between the body and frame provides an opportunity for things to get jammed and would also put your fingers in the danger zone more often, but I completely understand where you're coming from. I'm a risk-taker and trusted the jack to not blow out but also only removed one bushing at a time so the body could never fall anyway.
My recommendation is to use a 2.5 or 3 ton hydraulic floor jack if possible, with a long grooved 2x4 on top, and using 2 jacks would be better.
Or using a H.F. crossbeam between the single jack & lumber would provide additional stability as well as height adjustability at each end. I also understand that buying the jack and beam could be about $300 though. I used a single jack and board but can't recommend the beam enough now that I have one.
I was trying to find a thread that described how to unbolt the rag joint end of the steering column from the box. I see, under the plastic shield, there is a clamp over the spline to the box. Just wanted some reassurance that I simply unbolt and pry towards the firewall to take the rag joint end off the steering box. Not looking to remove or upgrade the collapsable steering shaft, just want to get it off the box for lifting body. Any input appreciated. Any heads-up on any "gotchas" appreciated.
Edit: assembly manual looks like it's a single bolt pinching a clamp. Should be reasonable.
Edit: assembly manual looks like it's a single bolt pinching a clamp. Should be reasonable.
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