Looks good man. I think it'll turn out real nice when you're done. I've been checking out all of the available caps and adapters myself since I lack an air compressor, and there's quite a few options out there thanks to the graffiti artist movement. It's good to know that they work well for spraying a car. I personally like the fan spray tips and have been sourcing them from depleted cans of urethane because they offer better coverage and far less overspray than the tips that come on paint nowadays.
Years ago, my father and I painted a '79 El Camino with rattle can black metallic and learned a couple things the hard way. It turned out alright but I wish I would've known beforehand that:
• Unless you paint everything on the same day there's a good chance it won't match perfectly.
• The shade of paint can slightly vary batch to batch so it's a good idea to purchase entire flats/boxes of cans with matching numbers.
• Buy more than you think is necessary, and it's going to take more cans than you originally think it will.
• Don't use halogen lights to see what you're doing, as they put off too much heat and affect how the paint lays down. With metallic this causes shadows because the flakes settle at different angles.
• Use a $5 gun attachment for spray cans to avoid extreme hand fatigue or even cramps.
• Employ a friend or child to constantly pre-shake your next can before you need it.
• Lightly wetting the floor prevents dust from being stirred up but too much leads to water splashing onto the car as you work.
• Spray paint takes forever to harden, it honestly takes about a month to fully cure. Wet sand only, and add soap to the water or the paper clogs immediately. Buffing/rubbing compound can be applied by hand but a machine is too aggressive since the paint is so thin.
I know you said you weren't trying for perfection and you definitely didn't ask for my input but I felt compelled to share my mistakes in the hope that it helps someone.
