In my '79 Cutlass assembly manual list body mount 330947 (purple) with no lower mount for coupes AM47 & AR47 with RPO VD6. I'll guess this si what you have as it's the only Cutlass listing with that body mount.
BUILD THREAD '78 Cutlass Supreme Lichen Edition
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Thank you for that information. I'm looking for my build sheet. What is 'purple' about it?
Also I bought a jegs frame rail extension because I figure I'll need a 4speed at some point. I'm pretty sure this frame rail extension will need to be welded, and I think for that to happen the body needs to be off the frame. So at this point I'm wondering if I can use my existing crossmember geometry for a 2004R... I planned on single exhaust, along the factory path anyway.
Color code for the mount. Funny thing is purple is also used for the #5 position over the rear axle but is a different p/n.
Also this is worth the investment for any A/G since there is no other out there.
1979 Olds Cutlass Assembly Manual Oldsmobile 442 Supreme Calais Salon | eBay
This reprinted manual gives you assembly illustrations down to the last nut, bolt and screw. It shows exploded views of the mechanical parts of the car, and includes part group numbers. Use this manual to help you disassemble or reassemble parts of your car, and or to help identify parts that...
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There is the vd6.Also this is worth the investment for any A/G since there is no other out there.
1979 Olds Cutlass Assembly Manual Oldsmobile 442 Supreme Calais Salon | eBay
This reprinted manual gives you assembly illustrations down to the last nut, bolt and screw. It shows exploded views of the mechanical parts of the car, and includes part group numbers. Use this manual to help you disassemble or reassemble parts of your car, and or to help identify parts that...www.ebay.com
I only have the Haynes manual so thank you.
So, yes it looks like the #5 and #3 mounts on my car are not bolted, but instead have a grommet push through to retain in the frame. I'll check later, but it is probably unlikely that I have a caged nut in the body above the #3 mount, and although I could cut the door sill and bolt through that (as I've seen on other threads), I'm probably going to leave that factory bushing in place as a bump stop of sorts.
Actually due to the bean counters there will be a cage nut there as it was cheaper to build all cars with all the cage nuts instead of having two different panels to that has to be picked from before the body is assigned a VIN. It's like the floor pan when it can to stick cars, all had the same pan & was torch cut when it was listed to be a stick.
Did the other roller pin on the other side today... The old pin had lost its press fit and roller Head was bent... I hope I get years out of these hinges now. Going to put the door panels on soon after I find out why the power locks are non-functional; I just read there is a relay involved. Also experimenting with refinishing these alloy wheels; had to use 180 grit just to remove the oxide, still pitted, so I applied some sandable primer. Wasn't planning on it, but they will now be painted and probably clear-coated.
Did the other roller pin on the other side today... The old pin had lost its press fit and roller Head was bent... I hope I get years out of these hinges now. Going to put the door panels on soon after I find out why the power locks are non-functional; I just read there is a relay involved. Also experimenting with refinishing these alloy wheels; had to use 180 grit just to remove the oxide, so they will be painted and probably clear-coated
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I have a believable chrome for the rim and ridges that were polished (and the inboard side) - I am thinking a powder blue for the part that was originally grey. I'll have to experiment on a test piece to see if the 2k gloss I never used for other project will peel the urethane paint before I gloss the painted wheels. Although we'll all know the wheels don't belong on the car, they'll prolly look pretty good on the car - my wife might even stop cringing when she looks at the car. It is on steelies now without hubcaps.
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