8.5 in rearend
- Thread starter Billy1979malibu
- Start date
I have a hone on order to make the old inner into a setup bearing; should be arriving today. Thanks again for the input!!!Something like this works extremely well. It's small and can be rotated to watch the torque while spinning. Snap On makes one that uses a light that can be set to illuminate a desired setting - it's pretty slick, but $400.
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Using a fish scale is 'old school' and effective, but takes a fair amount of space.
What I meant by it will seem tight is that 25-40 in/lbs of rotational torque will not spin freely by hand - in my opinion it feels tight, almost too tight. But it won't be.
I'd strongly recommend making a setup bearing for the inner pinion.
To be clear: After I have pinion depth and mesh pattern and backlash satisfactory with the setup bearing, I will perform final assembly. Prior to final assembly I will make sure the new bearings are very lubed with gear oil.... and you are saying I should tighten the crush sleeve until I see 25-40 in-lbs of rotational torque with the pinion alone, or with the carrier installed? I ask, because that is outside of the recommended torque per my pair of references (a trade school video and a softcover book on rebuilding 10 and 12 bolts).
Also, I intend to use the crush sleeve, but have the solid spacer with shims as a backup. I haven't bought more crush sleeves. I'm not actually sure how the solid spacer does the same job as the crush sleeve. I have to research that. If you know the mechanics of how the solid spacer takes up the same preload as the crush sleeve, and you want to share your knowledge, please do so.
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I used the 64-72 upper control arms on mine as the G body ones weren't long enough to get the pinion down into the negative numbers where it needs to be.I'm also just now catching up on this thread. Others such as Clone Tie Pilot, GNVAIR, and RT Jam have mentioned the Ford Crown Vic rear and coincidentally I've been reading up on it lately. Another member, tokarz1 did a real nice job setting his up.
I was looking at using a shortened P71 Crown Vic aluminum driveshaft in conjunction with a B Body differential, as I'm considering using that instead of an 8.8 from a Fox Body Mustang. That reading led me to a few people actually using the whole Crown Vic diff (up until '97) and upgrading the guts, and one of those people is tokarz1. Apparently the Vic's UCA ears are in almost identical positions as the G Body (Mustang isn't), the lowers are also very close, the spring perches are off by 1/2", and the rears are fairly cheap and plentiful since they're in multiple cars. They're a bit wide and need shortened, and it seems that using UCA for a 73-77 A Body would be beneficial.
8.8 rearend build
I know just like the 305 build not everyone is going to approve of what I'm doing and some will feel it's completely sacrilegious and that's ok, everyone likes what they like and are free to state their opinion and do what they like on their own car. I enjoy building things, the planning...www.montecarloss.com
You're better off to do the carrier bearing pre-load first before messing with the pinion stuff. Pre-load for the carrier side bearings is set by the shimming without any specs to check with a torque wrench. Just a 0.004" thousandths thicker shim on either side from just slight drag and that's your pre-load spec from the CSM. MANY experienced guys go by feel and if you do it for a living, then you know what that feel is. Regardless, it should rotate smoothly but not spin around like a pinwheel.
Just remember not to install the real pinion rear bearing until final assembly. While still checking backlashes, you want to still be able to remove the pinion because you may need to add/subtract a shim.
When setting bearing pre-load- Pinion alone without the carrier. You're just setting bearing pre-load so nothing but two bearings to worry with. With the new bearings, you want to see 20-25 inch-pounds rotating torque for bearing pre-load. I just checked the 1985 CSM to verify that spec. If you're seeing 25-40, the bearings are too tight. Gotta sneak up on the torque for the nut to get there while periodically rotating the pinion to ensure bearings are seated. A little at a time.
Keep in mind, I'm not a differential specialist and I don't know anything. What I've done in the past has no "bearing" on any advice that I give.
This is from the 1984 CSM, but pretty much the same. Keep in mind some of these procedures are for final assemblies, such as checking bearing preloads they say put a front seal in. Yeah, you do want to do that on final assembly, but not while you're doing pinion shimming or preliminary checks. Gotta read between the lines on some of this stuff.
Just remember not to install the real pinion rear bearing until final assembly. While still checking backlashes, you want to still be able to remove the pinion because you may need to add/subtract a shim.
When setting bearing pre-load- Pinion alone without the carrier. You're just setting bearing pre-load so nothing but two bearings to worry with. With the new bearings, you want to see 20-25 inch-pounds rotating torque for bearing pre-load. I just checked the 1985 CSM to verify that spec. If you're seeing 25-40, the bearings are too tight. Gotta sneak up on the torque for the nut to get there while periodically rotating the pinion to ensure bearings are seated. A little at a time.
Keep in mind, I'm not a differential specialist and I don't know anything. What I've done in the past has no "bearing" on any advice that I give.
This is from the 1984 CSM, but pretty much the same. Keep in mind some of these procedures are for final assemblies, such as checking bearing preloads they say put a front seal in. Yeah, you do want to do that on final assembly, but not while you're doing pinion shimming or preliminary checks. Gotta read between the lines on some of this stuff.
I am making the old bearing into a setup bearing.
Do you know the part number for the bump stop on the rear axel.
I've only found this (mislabeled?), and I don't want poly (want OEM rubber).
10000812. Need 2. I believe they're for any G-body and some older A-bodies, but don't quote me on that. I know they fit the 8.5 442 rear.
These are for earlier A-bodies but they MIGHT work? Anyone know? I know they're just a tad taller looking, but unless you're riding on the ground, can't see how you'd be hitting anything anyway. Main concern is the fit in the slot.
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So, I've got zero preload at 471 thousandths and I can't get the center section out with 477 thousandths of shims. Ratchet Strap and floor joice for the save.
The iron shims from the factory with the open carrier measured 248 and 238 thousandths for driver and passenger side, respectively.
I'm going to use 240 and 230 thousandths for driver and passenger side, respectively for my first shot at backlash and first mesh pattern.
The iron shims from the factory with the open carrier measured 248 and 238 thousandths for driver and passenger side, respectively.
I'm going to use 240 and 230 thousandths for driver and passenger side, respectively for my first shot at backlash and first mesh pattern.
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A small pry bar helps too in getting out those stuck center sections sometimes. Glad everything seems to be progressing. Take your time, and don't be afraid to double and triple check your work. You're getting into the tedious part now.
