8.5 in rearend
- Thread starter Billy1979malibu
- Start date
I wouldn't be too overly concerned about the pins coming loose. Since it's all apart anyway it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the backing plates with new ones, which come with new anchor pins and lock nuts. Btw the torque spec for the anchor pins is 103 lbsft. If it still worries you that much use some good loctite on them during assembly.
After spending good money on bushing press(s), I got the UCA bushings out. They were stubborn. As dry rotted as these are on '84-87 rear, I'm pretty sure they would serve well for another decade or more. I'll reuse the tools when I redo the control arms front and back. Got the rear on a sawhorse rotisserie with castor wheels - lol
I need a raise.
I need a raise.
Attachments
Last edited:
Got my 3.42 gears, trutrac, bearings, and 30 spline axles. Man these axles are beefy. Still need tools like a die grinder, press, shim driver, brass drift, race driver, dial indicator...
Going with inline tube '76 Seville disk brakes when back in stock at inline tube.
Going to torque these left handed ring bolts with the carrier on an axle on a spare tire... need red locktight
Going with inline tube '76 Seville disk brakes when back in stock at inline tube.
Going to torque these left handed ring bolts with the carrier on an axle on a spare tire... need red locktight
Attachments
I bought this GM# 19470452 strap kit for the 8.5" rear, mostly for the bolts so I could attach the pinion yoke holder tool, and the bolts do not have the correct thread. Does the 442 rear that I am rebuilding require different clamping hardware? The differential yoke definitely has threaded holes. I assumed the u-joint was the same between the 7.5" and 8.5" cars (is it the 1350?). My salvage 8.5" didn't come with clamping hardware.
I see a forged steel yoke on amazon for $80, but I'm pretty sure the stock yoke is good enough for me, and I want to reuse it. Can the yoke threads be so buggered that the screw won't thread? Rock Auto says the part is correct for g-body 8.5".
What gives? I've been on rock auto and various other sites and I cannot sort it out.
Q. Did the 442 8.5" rear come with cast or forged yoke?
Q. Is anybody aware of difference in u-joint/yoke clamping hardware between the 7.5 and the 8.5"?
I see a forged steel yoke on amazon for $80, but I'm pretty sure the stock yoke is good enough for me, and I want to reuse it. Can the yoke threads be so buggered that the screw won't thread? Rock Auto says the part is correct for g-body 8.5".
What gives? I've been on rock auto and various other sites and I cannot sort it out.
Q. Did the 442 8.5" rear come with cast or forged yoke?
Q. Is anybody aware of difference in u-joint/yoke clamping hardware between the 7.5 and the 8.5"?
Last edited:
Save to assume if you're asking you don't have a few standard or metric bolts on hand to test it, as well as a tap to clean up the threads.
I've tried what I had in the bolt jars. Nothing was going in easy, so I bought the clamping hardware thinking for sure it was going to thread in. I almost blew a gasket when the $17.00 clamping hardware I waited for Amazon to deliver didn't thread in. I've never had to chase threads with a tap in a forging or iron casting - maybe this is the day. I will likely be buying a new yoke.
If they look rusted then something may not thread in easy. Some penetrating oil will help, or anti-sieze on the bolt and run it in.
Understood. I've done that. It feels like it is galling. I've stripped and cross-threaded enough fasteners in my life to know when something isn't right. Although, in this case it doesn't make sense.
Last week I almost ruined the carburetor cross threading the barrel that holds the fuel filter for a few turns. Perfectly good 46 year old carb now needs teflon tape or will set the scene on fire.
