800 series steering box adjustment

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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Hey guys

The steering on the stock Cutlass Calais I picked up earlier this year is pretty sloppy (No surprise there). It has the factory 800 series F41 box with the adjuster preload stud and the four bolt cover.

I've gone thru and inspected all the front end suspension and steering components, and everything looks good. The steering shaft could probably use replacement/upgrading, but I'm not ready to do that just yet.

Some years ago when I built the Juggernaut the first time, I remember adjusting the steering box itself to help tighten up things and it worked great. Problem is, as the years have passed, I don't recall what or how I did it.🙁

Could one of you fine gentlemen kindly remind me how to do it again and when/where to stop adjusting so I can get this other one tuned up and improved? I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance
Donovan
 
I was going to do mine a couple years ago and downloaded instructions to do it but then decided to try a new Borgeson steering shaft set up first and I was amazed that the slop I thought was in the box was all in the stock steering shaft.
 
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Donovan,
If I recall correctly...it's been awhile for me as well. I think it's a matter of loosening the locknut on the adjuster, and keep a wrench on the locknut as you turn in the adjustment screw to keep it from turning with the adjustment screw. I believe you turn it in till it's snug and then back it off slightly, and tighten the locknut. I think it was clockwise...
Mind you, I'm going by memory, and it might not be as sharp as it once was...😕

565 is correct. When I swapped out the intermediate shaft, what I thought was play in my steering box turned out to be the dreaded rag joint. It made a vast improvement in steering firmness.

I found this online. I hope you find it helpful. http://bangshift.com/general-news/d...-steering-box-in-five-minutes-with-two-tools/

Oh, and it does mention jacking up the front of the car.
 
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This is how I did mine.
 
Jack and Hutch,
Thanks very much for those two links. That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm going to try making those adjustments first as they're the simplest and easiest to do with the box in the car.
565, if adjusting the box doesn't do much, I've got a spare "like new" shaft I restored that I was saving for the 'Naut I can swap out.
Thanks to all of you for the quick responses, you guys and this site rock!
Donovan
 
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http://www.agrperformance.com/AGR-Installation/JK-Steering-Box-Pre-Load.pdf



SAGINAW GEAR BOX ADJUSTMENT The first adjustment is the input of the box where the steering shaft comes in.  There is a 2-inch jam ring, back it off, and then under it are 2 holes for a spanner wrench (if you do not own a spanner then a dull punch or chisel will work).  Tighten the inner piece like you would wheel bearings i.e. seat it tight then loosen, then go back finger tight so there is no play on the preload but your not over tensioning the thrust bearings.  When you are done the input shaft may still move side to side but as you turn the shaft there should be no trace of in and out movement.

The second adjustment is the Allen on top of the box; this preloads the sector shaft that your pitman arm connects to.  First, put the front tires in the air, engine off the whole time, set the steering at center or straight ahead with the tires. On Saginaw boxes the flat spot on the input shaft will be facing up.  You will then break the jam nut loose, screw down the Allen until the teeth touch inside the box you will have to feel for it as the Allen will get harder to turn, do not confuse this with the initial breaking loose of loctite.  The teeth should be ¼ to no more than 2 turns down, normally you should still have at lest a couple of threads showing. From there take the input or the steering wheel and turn it both directions back and forth across center, as you do that slowly turn the Allen tighter until you feel a light drag across center, not a drag so big that you will feel it with the engine running but a light drag is very important.  What you have done is taken the play out of the teeth then preloaded the sector shaft into the needle bearings which will keep it from moving left to right at the pitman arm.  Relock all jam nuts making sure that adjusters do not move
 
Very nice information guys. I just did the Vega box on my 32 ford, and I will be going through this with the wagon soon.
 
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