with a 700r4's .70 final drive ratio....
60mph @ ~1628rpms
70mph @ ~ 1900
80mph @ ~ 2170
60mph @ ~1628rpms
70mph @ ~ 1900
80mph @ ~ 2170
Cheers bud that's the way to go for sure, that will be a future plan 👌with a 700r4's .70 final drive ratio....
60mph @ ~1628rpms
70mph @ ~ 1900
80mph @ ~ 2170
Yeah the turbo 700 will be the ideal setup, will be a future upgrade for sure. Not to worried right now she wont see a lot of open road use but she will in the future, pretty hard to get a lot of this stuff here but you can get rebuildable turbo 700's from time to time. They use them with the holden v8's, i've got one going into a Holden wagon here sometime soon....I saved a 3.08 R&P from someone's past project, plus a pair of 700R4s. Glad to find that the TPS cable was still attached when I moved it recently. These seem like an ideal combination for splitting mild performance and drive ability. The wagon has 3.73s and a 200-4R, a better, but harder combination to pull together.
Does the heater high/low blower relay still have the 12 GA/3.0 wire running from the starter to either a 3 cavity or 4 cavity (most likely this one) that has the A/C compressor wires? If so look to see if it is melted at the red wire's cavity. Then check to see if it runs to the relay. Possible it could of been the fusible link (16 GA/1.0) that could be an issue which would be an easy fix. But a good long term fix even after replacing the fusible link would be adding a 30 amp fuse up near the relay or just run a new 12 GA/3.0 red wire from the battery or starter with a 16 Ga/1.0 fusible link (about 4 in/10 cm long) to the relay with the 30 amp fuse near it.So this old witch is still throwing it at me, got the new rear Tyres the other day 245/50/17s . Went to fit them & found the rear brake cylinders had let go, had new shoe's cylinders & fitting kit here so chucked all that in. Painted up the drums & chucked the wheels back on, looks heaps better. So put her to work for a day & all going well but i'm thinking what are you going to throw at me next, as you will know from the posts i've just about replaced everything on her now. Well yesterday we had to shoot up early to the building supply shop, misty morning so turned the heater on & off we went. Got my stuff & back at the wagon we go to fire her up & nothing except the clock going, wont turn over. So checked the fuses then thought its got to be the heater, when all the computer controlled carburetor garbage was pulled out that obviously had the heater wiring in it so i found a way to power up the relay direct to the battery so the heater would work a couple of weeks ago. Never used it with the engine running but thought win i'd sorted that, anyways i move the heater control switch & the dash lights come up & everything powers up but still no key start. Tried disconnecting the heater then dead again so powered that up again & dash lights etc again unless you move the heater switch, so thought crap. Went back into the shop & bought a very expensive long screw driver to jump the starter which got us fired up & home all good...... So think all i can do for now is a start button but i'm thinking this witch is probably going to need a full rewire which being in Nz is not cheap, just on $1200 to get a replacement loom here. Definitely a love hate relationship with this old gear, into her now in excess of 20k so can only keep going but yeah🤬🤬🤬
Cheers heaps this will be a major help in finding the issue, i'll get into this in the near future & go a hunting. At present she's back in the naughty corner in the carport where she loves to live by the looks hahaDoes the heater high/low blower relay still have the 12 GA/3.0 wire running from the starter to either a 3 cavity or 4 cavity (most likely this one) that has the A/C compressor wires? If so look to see if it is melted at the red wire's cavity. Then check to see if it runs to the relay. Possible it could of been the fusible link (16 GA/1.0) that could be an issue which would be an easy fix. But a good long term fix even after replacing the fusible link would be adding a 30 amp fuse up near the relay or just run a new 12 GA/3.0 red wire from the battery or starter with a 16 Ga/1.0 fusible link (about 4 in/10 cm long) to the relay with the 30 amp fuse near it.
GM set it up where the heater blower relay is spliced off the same wire that feed the main power & ignition switch. Yet the set up lighting on the other red wire.
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