84 Buick Regal/5.3 PS issues.

[Built6spdMCSS]

That’s harsh dude, but unfortunately correct.

It’s the world we live in. I need the answer with no research and knowledge gained in 30 seconds or less lol.

Harsh to those with soft skin but it is 2021 and everyone is a creampuff just about.

Been on these forums for years watching them turn to sh*t, why I posted what I did with my builds a long time ago with tons of details and info, and chime in on the really oddball technical stuff. I'll leave the simple stuff to be answered by 90% incorrect info and grab a beer to watch everyone chase their asses while the correct info is in front of them all day when a little work is put in.

 

[krav84]

Welcome to the forum. Looks like this is your first post. If you would have used the Holley system you wouldn’t be having this problem. What motor mounts are you using?

if i know Holley im betting the holley system is worth more than i paid for my entire engine $445?
some of dont have or dont want to spend more on adapter parts than the entire car

 

[krav84]

I just put a Dirty Dingo PS pulley; 5" diameter down from the 7". It helped the clearance on the steering box.

how hard was that pulley to remove and reisntall on PS pump?
some Youtube guy said it was a bear to get off?

 

[fleming442]

how hard was that pulley to remove and reisntall on PS pump?
some Youtube guy said it was a bear to get off?

They can be. You need the tool available from any parts store.

 

[krav84]

Frustratingly nobody puts LS engines in the same place. Some people put them forward and low, some up and back.

I home built my own mounts and have a stock truck PS pump pulley. Mine clears with 1" to the PS box.

Depending on the mount you can potentially slide the mounts back or use a different set of holes.

People use a 3.4 grand am PS pulley or the one off a 5.3 gmt360 chassis (TBSS, envoy denali or rainier) that is smaller.

View attachment 174495

Hey dude, i would like to pick your brain on details of your swap.
How did you fab your own mounts?
which way is the power steering clearing the steering box from, behind? over or off towards pass side?

Im running stock PS pulley too.

I bought some podoy chinese knockoffs of Lsx innovation type motor mounts for my 5.3LS swap into 84 cutlass. they dont fit maybe cuz the stock 307 was replaced with 305 and that guy messed with motor mount locations on the frame?
i dunno, but anyways i didnt find out until engine is wedged into place that neither mount is gonna work.

at first i tried using the pass side mount and was gonna dremel the other hole out bigger to fit but the oilpan was sitting right on the crossmember of pass side which im sure would crack it open or wear a hole thru.
this also left the engine tilted an inch lower on drivers side.

then i tried using drivers side mount and already fabbed a spacer bracket to lift the pass side high enough to clear crosssmember, only to find the drivers side manifold is not even close to fitting in there, it points right at the frame rails , right at the brake manifold and gear shifter mount.
Im running stock PS pulley too

So unless you have a better plan;

now that ive got engine sitting in my fabbed pass side mount, its already got the valve cover pressed against the heater box but at least that manifold fits with lotsa room.
the other side of engine is is hoisted in midair with engine hoist and level now but that mounting hole on frame bracket is about 3/4" lower than clamshell on engine AND the Drivers side manifold is pointing directly at frame and brake manifold bolted to the frame.
ive already cutoff about 3/4 off one manifold bolt but its not enough.

So i have to fab another mount spacer AND cut off the exhaust manifold flange and turn it ccw about 2 hrs and cut a wedge out of maniold to point it into the open space and re-weld that into place.
Im no great welder but i think i will need special rods to weld cast iron?

 

[krav84]

Ok, I have read about this issue 100’s of times and almost every thread I read is slightly different from my issue. My ps pulley is pressing up against the gear box. I have a 5.3 bolted to a 4l60E, G Force crossmember, G Force trans adjustable mount. When I push the motor back as far as it will go, it throws the crossmember bolt holes off with the frame holes, but then it has clearance with the pulley. When I set the crossmember to the correct position it wedges the ps pulley into the box. Can I make new holes on the frame or do I need an aftermarket bracket kit for the alternator and ps pump? I’m using all stock truck accessories. Thanks

im in process of swapping a stock truck LS into 84 cutlass as well but with stock th350 transmission but have similar issues. im 1/2 inch off to side of pulley but still cant fit drivers manifold in ans will have to enlarge transmission mount holes or something.

From sounds of it , either of your own suggestions should work.
if you didnt cut a new driveshaft already i would just redo/extend the crossmember mount holes since some people say those pulleys are a bear to get off PS pump.

Did you manage to get both the exhaust manifolds on the engine already while its in place? if so do the collectors bolt up too or did you go the Headers route cuz they didnt fit?

 

[L92 OLDS]

That’s harsh dude, but unfortunately correct.

It’s the world we live in. I need the answer with no research and knowledge gained in 30 seconds or less lol.

And the request is made without an introduction. Usually the first post.

 

[L92 OLDS]

if i know Holley im betting the holley system is worth more than i paid for my entire engine $445?
some of dont have or dont want to spend more on adapter parts than the entire car

All we’re talking about here are motor mounts and a transmission crossmember. You likely spent just as much on Chinese parts that aren’t designed to work together. Imagine how much frustration you could’ve saved yourself.

 

[81cutlass]

Hey dude, i would like to pick your brain on details of your swap.
How did you fab your own mounts?
which way is the power steering clearing the steering box from, behind? over or off towards pass side?

Im running stock PS pulley too.

I bought some podoy chinese knockoffs of Lsx innovation type motor mounts for my 5.3LS swap into 84 cutlass. they dont fit maybe cuz the stock 307 was replaced with 305 and that guy messed with motor mount locations on the frame?
i dunno, but anyways i didnt find out until engine is wedged into place that neither mount is gonna work.

at first i tried using the pass side mount and was gonna dremel the other hole out bigger to fit but the oilpan was sitting right on the crossmember of pass side which im sure would crack it open or wear a hole thru.
this also left the engine tilted an inch lower on drivers side.

then i tried using drivers side mount and already fabbed a spacer bracket to lift the pass side high enough to clear crosssmember, only to find the drivers side manifold is not even close to fitting in there, it points right at the frame rails , right at the brake manifold and gear shifter mount.
Im running stock PS pulley too

So unless you have a better plan;

now that ive got engine sitting in my fabbed pass side mount, its already got the valve cover pressed against the heater box but at least that manifold fits with lotsa room.
the other side of engine is is hoisted in midair with engine hoist and level now but that mounting hole on frame bracket is about 3/4" lower than clamshell on engine AND the Drivers side manifold is pointing directly at frame and brake manifold bolted to the frame.
ive already cutoff about 3/4 off one manifold bolt but its not enough.

So i have to fab another mount spacer AND cut off the exhaust manifold flange and turn it ccw about 2 hrs and cut a wedge out of maniold to point it into the open space and re-weld that into place.
Im no great welder but i think i will need special rods to weld cast iron?

What manifolds are you using? Stock truck? They won't fit either way. V8 GMT360 (TBSS, Envoy, Rainier) might fit but GMT800 wont. LS camaro do I think.

When I installed my LS I ignored all aftermarket options and did it myself since at the time I was a broke engineering student and I had all the free scrap steel, welding equipment and tools at my Dad's shop. Plus maybe 10% of the aftermarket that exists today was available back then.

My Grand Prix was a factory SBC 2004R car and the SBC was missing so literally I just bolted the LS to the 2004r where it sat from the factory and made my own mounts to fill in the gaps between the stock SBC frame pads and the block. No front or back shift from factory. There is a print online of the dimensions of the block mount plates that I cut out of some 1/4x4" flat plate and I just took some cardboard as a pattern and filled the gaps in between. Drop engine in and bolt to trans, support with hoist while I centered the crank pulley, stuck a level on the top and start fab.

The passenger side valve cover is really close to the AC box but it fits. My engine also sits higher than some because at the time I used a stock pickup oil pan and had to jack the front end up a little to clear the tierod ends to the oil pan at full steering lock. I have a holley oil pan now and I could drop the engine another inch but it clears the stock hood and if I do lower it the headers get lower which doesn't help anything.

The pulley clears to the rear (kinda see it in this photo)

 

[krav84]

What manifolds are you using? Stock truck? They won't fit either way. V8 GMT360 (TBSS, Envoy, Rainier) might fit but GMT800 wont. LS camaro do I think.

When I installed my LS I ignored all aftermarket options and did it myself since at the time I was a broke engineering student and I had all the free scrap steel, welding equipment and tools at my Dad's shop. Plus maybe 10% of the aftermarket that exists today was available back then.

My Grand Prix was a factory SBC 2004R car and the SBC was missing so literally I just bolted the LS to the 2004r where it sat from the factory and made my own mounts to fill in the gaps between the stock SBC frame pads and the block. No front or back shift from factory. There is a print online of the dimensions of the block mount plates that I cut out of some 1/4x4" flat plate and I just took some cardboard as a pattern and filled the gaps in between. Drop engine in and bolt to trans, support with hoist while I centered the crank pulley, stuck a level on the top and start fab.

The passenger side valve cover is really close to the AC box but it fits. My engine also sits higher than some because at the time I used a stock pickup oil pan and had to jack the front end up a little to clear the tierod ends to the oil pan at full steering lock. I have a holley oil pan now and I could drop the engine another inch but it clears the stock hood and if I do lower it the headers get lower which doesn't help anything.

The pulley clears to the rear (kinda see it in this photo)

View attachment 174850

Ok thanks dude. Looks like you had your entire front end disasembled, bumper, body pieces, rad support and everything off?
easy to work on then but alot of work and parts to keep track of and my stepdads already harping every day when he gets his garage back after only 2 weeks :-(
Good to know stock manifolds wont work as is.....now do i risk throwing away potential 100$ by cutting up the stock manifold to try out my cast iron welding skills or just buy headers and hope to recoup a 100$ by selling manifolds.