84 Buick Regal/5.3 PS issues.

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Ok thanks dude. Looks like you had your entire front end disasembled, bumper, body pieces, rad support and everything off?
easy to work on then but alot of work and parts to keep track of and my stepdads already harping every day when he gets his garage back after only 2 weeks :-(
Good to know stock manifolds wont work as is.....now do i risk throwing away potential 100$ by cutting up the stock manifold to try out my cast iron welding skills or just buy headers and hope to recoup a 100$ by selling manifolds.

What manifolds do you have? Stock pickup? They aren't worth $100, maybe $20 if you are lucky if someone wanting to do a turbo setup wants them.

Speed engineering sells a decent set of stainless longtubes for G body. I used ls1 f body headers at the time because affordable stainless G body headers didn't exist.

I had the front end off my car because I wanted to clean the frame rails and needed to replace the door hinge pin bushings. By no means does it have to come off.
 
Weld the manifolds - it will work without issue. Truck LS manifolds are very easy to weld.
 
The welding actually goes pretty good. I think the manifolds are more like cast steel instead of iron. I cut and welded mine on my 5.3 single turbo swap. Welded 2-1/2" aluminized exhaust tubing to them no issues.
 
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Here is what I did for my mounts.
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right on man, this is what i was originaly going to do but every youtube channel was raving how the adjustable aluminum ones were the qwik drop in way to go, well worth the 40 bucks, sadly it wasnt true for me. i even had some 4 inch plate but used most of it already adapting the pass.side adjustable mounts.
Im in canada and so far trying to use stock truck manifolds and they do get advertised locally for 100-150/pair cdn$ but since more than one guy here says they weld easy, i might as well give it a shot.
Sorry to original poster for hijacking his thread
 
im in process of swapping a stock truck LS into 84 cutlass as well but with stock th350 transmission but have similar issues. im 1/2 inch off to side of pulley but still cant fit drivers manifold in ans will have to enlarge transmission mount holes or something.

From sounds of it , either of your own suggestions should work.
if you didnt cut a new driveshaft already i would just redo/extend the crossmember mount holes since some people say those pulleys are a bear to get off PS pump.

Did you manage to get both the exhaust manifolds on the engine already while its in place? if so do the collectors bolt up too or did you go the Headers route cuz they didnt fit?
I actually used s10 shorty headers and they fit perfect. I don’t have the shaft yet because I wanted to get the motor and trans positioned before I got it made. I got an ICT billet bracket and it lifted the ps pulley about an inch and half over the box, now I have to clear the oil pan a little. It’s pretty much kissing the frame. Once I slide it back about half an inch it should all work.
 
You haven't read very much honestly, this was solved years ago. With the above posts showing the lack of information on what I have put out a long time ago, come on people....

TRUCK SMALLER POWER STEERING PULLEY: DORMAN 300-201, 300-202 is the metal pulley.

BOOM.

Big HUGE post, the first one in the sticky's in this section...


Can lead a horse to water but I guess you have to jam their skull in the bottom of the trough to get them to drink.
I actually already tried that pulley and that’s the one that I was having issues with. I now have swapped the ps pump and need a different pulley. I think my issue was more on the motor needing to go back a bit
 
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