BUILD THREAD 84 Hurst Olds - TechG8

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yep I've got an amazon order going. Ill have the sensor Monday and the connector Tuesday.

will advise...
 
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Funny... we both visited the issue with some exploring over the weekend.

The more I read, the more I think it IS what we need... heated O2.

Headers tend to cool down the exhaust enough to make an O2 sensor act erratically. It never ocourred to me, but the car always ran shittier in cooler weather.. like this morning. Rainy, cooler, and ran like Crap... almost died 3 times.

Which one did you end up getting? I see three there.. looks like Walker was the cheaper of the set.. as much as I prefer AC Delco, uhm... I don't prefer it at 2.5 times the cost 😀

-Gonz
 
I found some of the information i was looking for that goes into more detail about open loop and closed loop. There's even information about O2 censor and MC dwell. This information is out of one of my GM Tech book.
There is another Tech book that goes with this one but i haven't found it yet but i do have it. More i was reading the more it was all coming back to me.
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We used to (and I will again) wrap header tape at the collector and past the O2 sensor to hold the heat a bit more. Also keeps heat off of your feet.
 
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Excellent information! Thanks a ton!

-Gonz
 
I re-learned something today...I had completely forgotten that WOT puts you into open loop. Of course, hardly any diagnosis requires WOT except for setting the TV cable on a 4R transmission as the only thing I can think of that does.

But when you say you're going to WOT at some point I'm guessing the engine RPM comes up and apparently reaches about 600 degrees at the sensor and starts to send a signal. Pure speculation, but apparently it still seems to point to the sensor not getting/staying hot enough.

I don't recall if you had mentioned that the TPS readings are good throughout the range as I've heard stories of dead spots and glitchy readings as it travelled, but I am assuming they are OK. The ECM is pretty finicky with wacky sensors and will drop a code pretty quick. So if you're not seeing any codes, I'm still betting on a "cold" sensor.
 
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Additionally, if you need "GM" approved O2 sensor lubricant, they use Bostik Regular Grade Never-Seez. GM p/n 88862477. $66.20 list price per 8 oz can at your local GM parts dealer.

How do I know? Because all they do is put a p/n sticker on top of the can of Bostik. Why repackage it when you can put a sticker on it and charge 3 times as much? 🙂 I've seen this elsewhere online for $16.99 per can. Same stuff.

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I don't recall if you had mentioned that the TPS readings are good throughout the range as I've heard stories of dead spots and glitchy readings as it travelled
The stories you heard are correct, even GM TPS had dead spots, replaced many at the dealer.
 
ORDERED a AC 213-632 today... lol


Wouldn't it be ironic if this thread solved my problems when all along, I thought it was the carb, and was going to have you rebuild it? 😀

(Probably still will anyway, your reputation precedes you)

-Gonz
 
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