84 Monte Carlo Engine Swap...or Camshaft Replacement ?
- Thread starter Tynan918
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While it’s probably ok due to the fine grains of metal produced by the grinding of the cam and lifters, If you have to let the car sit, it would be better to rebuild another motor that’s a known quantity rather than risk more money in the pit that the 305 is.
In all likely hood, the filings from the wiped cam have already circulated though the engine and damaged various bearings inside before the filter could catch them. The best course of action now is find another engine to swap in.
Like I said before, his best option is less than 100 miles away, and is a roller engine
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All this talk of cheap usable running pullout 350s from shops must be wonderful, but that's not how things go down in Oklahoma.
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All this talk of cheap usable running pullout 350s from shops must be wonderful, but that's not how things go down in Oklahoma.
Are you sure that reply isn't just sarcasm from yet another person who is frustrated after being repeatedly asked for advice which is immediately ignored?
So if it is running fine now then why bother spending more money on a bunch of new parts for a "band Aid" fix, and even if you did replace the cam and lifters why do you need to spend even more money on pushrods, rocker arms and valve springs?
Like I said before, his best option is less than 100 miles away, and is a roller engine
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All this talk of cheap usable running pullout 350s from shops must be wonderful, but that's not how things go down in Oklahoma.
He can also try Craigslist. I bought a POSI 7.5 with 3.73 gears for $100 off of CL.
If it makes you feel better, the 396 in my monte w unknown mileage had developed a rod knock. Pulled the entire engine and replaced the bearings after giving journals a good polish. Each one were well within specs checking them with plastiguage. While I had the engine flipped upside down I had noticed the cylinder walls that were within view all still had some visible crosshatching marks which gave me the impression the engine had relatively low miles. While the engine was out, I decided that I wanted to put a computer friendly cam in. This is where I discovered a broken roller rocker adjuster and a couple of eaten lobes/lifters. My old adjusters as well as the new ones that I ordered when you set the lock screw, it screwed in pretty deep which arrived to the conclusion that my rocker studs were a tad short and left thread engagement at 2-3 threads. I think the 2-3 thread engagement led to the failure point as some of the others upon inspection started to crack at the base of the adjuster. Replaced with longer screw in rocker studs and now the lock screw would sit almost flush with the top of the adjusters. Buttoned it all up and daily drove it for 3-4 years. That engine was still operational when pulled but sits lifeless on a engine stand.
Point of this is you need to make some informed decisions based on the condition of the engine that you're being dealt with. Sucks to be you if you pull it apart and find it to be all tired and worn out. My apologies if it seems like I contributed to pulling the string on the talking doll...
Point of this is you need to make some informed decisions based on the condition of the engine that you're being dealt with. Sucks to be you if you pull it apart and find it to be all tired and worn out. My apologies if it seems like I contributed to pulling the string on the talking doll...
Because buying new parts that aren't needed is how you build things. It makes it cooler.
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