85 T-Type engine swap

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You also need to upgrade the fuel line to a larger diameter, install a baffled gas tank, put a fuel filter inline (can install inside the rear frame rail) and electric fuel pump. If you do factory intank style it'll need a harness, recommend a hot wire kit.
What do you think of these kits and are their part good quality?
 

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It was t-boned on the driver’s side A pillar and the frame is trashed. So the chip scene is dishonest and fraudulent? My thinking is that I can double my horsepower and drivability by doing a easy engine and transmission swap for under 1500 bucks that’s gotta be a win.
Sounds like a decent deal........but with so few 84-85 turbo cars produced, there won't be much for technical support out there or 84-85 specific parts. Years back, the parts to changeover to 86-87 setup were reasonable......but those days are long gone.

While you are getting parts.....grab the fuel tank and sender, fuel lines, drive shaft, gauge cluster, and hydroboost brake setup.
 
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Buy the whole car, or buy a crate SBC for your Regal.
 
Why would I buy a car that has a bent frame and not a single usable body panel? Not to mention a trashed interior. Ok I lied. The left rear quarter panel is descent.
Makes your conversion easier. Just park side by side and swap parts.

If the rest is as trashed as you say it shouldn't cost much of anything.

I'd recommend the factory style tank, either from that wrecked car, another turbo regal, or, a 4.3l monte carlo and have the filler neck swapped with a regal one.

I also wouldn't run that rubber line from back to front. Never run any more rubber line than necessary for an emergency repair, always flare and install new sections of metal.
 
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Makes your conversion easier. Just park side by side and swap parts.

If the rest is as trashed as you say it shouldn't cost much of anything.

I'd recommend the factory style tank, either from that wrecked car, another turbo regal, or, a 4.3l monte carlo and have the filler neck swapped with a regal one.

I also wouldn't run that rubber line from back to front. Never run any more rubber line than necessary for an emergency repair, always flare and install new sections of metal.
My HOA would love that lol I wish that was an option. So you are saying that the fuel tank and sending unit are both different? I knew the sending unit needed upgraded because it didn’t have enough fuel pressure. Thanks for the info on the rubber hose. I didn’t know that. What size fuel line is needed?
 
My HOA would love that lol I wish that was an option. So you are saying that the fuel tank and sending unit are both different? I knew the sending unit needed upgraded because it didn’t have enough fuel pressure. Thanks for the info on the rubber hose. I didn’t know that. What size fuel line is needed?

Correct.

Factory tank comes with a baffle to keep fuel near the sump during cornering. Carbed gbodies did not get the baffles.

Sending unit has a hanger for the intank fuel pump the fuel injected cars came with.

Fuel injected cars had a 3/8" ID feed line. Carbed cars had a 5/16" ID feed line. Doesn't sound like much but makes a difference.

Find a public storage with a buy one month get one month for $1, park the hulk, and strip it to nothing over the two months. Bag and tag everything you can salvage, needed or not, then let a scrap guy have the carcass for free removal.
 
Carbed cars had a 5/16" ID feed line
all of my g body cars came with 3/8 fuel line. i haven't seen 5/16 line since the '60s early '70s.
 
Correct.

Factory tank comes with a baffle to keep fuel near the sump during cornering. Carbed gbodies did not get the baffles.

Sending unit has a hanger for the intank fuel pump the fuel injected cars came with.

Fuel injected cars had a 3/8" ID feed line. Carbed cars had a 5/16" ID feed line. Doesn't sound like much but makes a difference.

Find a public storage with a buy one month get one month for $1, park the hulk, and strip it to nothing over the two months. Bag and tag everything you can salvage, needed or not, then let a scrap guy have the carcass for free removal.
I hate using this as an excuse Not to do something especially when it’s a good idea. I’m paralyzed so moving it would be a pain in the gooch and it just takes me forever to do things. You could probably run that fuel and change the tank in a half day. That’s a two day job for me. I had to take my car in to get the valve cover gasket replaced because I couldn’t reach the last bolt. They did a shitty job and didn’t hook the alternator back up right and ruined my batter. it’s so frustrating paying someone to screw you over. Anyway lol sorry for venting on you I might be able to strip it where it’s at.
I get it now. My car has the mechanical fuel pump on the block so it doesn’t need a baffle. This one is in the tank so it needs a baffle. Makes sense. What does ID stand for?
 
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I hate using this as an excuse Not to do something especially when it’s a good idea. I’m paralyzed so moving it would be a pain in the gooch and it just takes me forever to do things. You could probably run that fuel and change the tank in a half day. That’s a two day job for me. I had to take my car in to get the valve cover gasket replaced because I couldn’t reach the last bolt. They did a shitty job and didn’t hook the alternator back up right and ruined my batter. it’s so frustrating paying someone to screw you over. Anyway lol sorry for venting on you I might be able to strip it where it’s at.
I get it now. My car has the mechanical fuel pump on the block so it doesn’t need a baffle. This one is in the tank so it needs a baffle. Makes sense. What does ID stand for?
ID = Inside Diameter
 
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