BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
I mentioned the good Gates hose a page or so back.
I love you.
I had to bring it up again. I know I'm not the most forgetful person here. 😉
I am not a fan of the voltage drop either! I borrowed an amp clamp from a buddy and I am going to check what the amp draw actually is.
I would consider a trunk battery but with my dumb 2+2 mini trunk opening it would be VERY inconvenient to service the battery. I'd prefer to put it on the upper deck right over the rear axle so it doesn't interfere with putting stuff in the trunk but it's so far up there it's really hard to get to.
I like the 50% over capacity with 0.2V drop rule of thumb with the breaker for each pump near the pump idea. Do you put the relay still up front and back near the pumps?
I have a single relay under the hood but I would like to go to twin relays if I am running twin pumps unless 1 relay is better for some reason.
You have a GD lathe... make something foo'!
I was going to just spend $20 and buy something, but now that you have poked the bees nest I guess I am going to spend hours and twice the amount of money building something that is a 15% improvement over the off the shelf option
First one, but just a tick too small for you.
Universal Bulkhead Wiring System, 4-Way (BCWS-001): Pump Bulkhead Wiring Systems
Purchase Universal Bulkhead Wiring System, 4-Way or shop other Pump Bulkhead Wiring Systems and Racetronix products.www.racetronix.biz
Second, and probably a good choice for your needs.
QFS Fuel Cell Electrical Bulkhead Fitting 10GA Wire Fuel Pump Assembly
FREE SHIPPING, LIFETIME WARRANTY from the AUTHORITY on OEM replacement Fuel Pumps. SAVE up to 70% off on parts for your vehicle. Shop QFS-BKCN-01www.highflowfuel.com
Awesome, thanks! That $20 close to perfect. That prewired one is nice with 4 wire and a 90 but the 12 gauge wire is a bit small.
I was going to just spend $20 and buy something, but now that you have poked the bees nest I guess I am going to spend hours and twice the amount of money building something that is a 15% improvement over the off the shelf option
I was going to just spend $20 and buy something, but now that you have poked the bees nest I guess I am going to spend hours and twice the amount of money building something that is a 15% improvement over the off the shelf option
Also, this is why I am a great leader.
Now eat your gruel.
Technically it "should" be fused/breaker from battery to rear distribution block. Audio power fuse works good, probably better in that application than a breaker being in the elements and having contacts potentially corrode and cause resistance.I am not a fan of the voltage drop either! I borrowed an amp clamp from a buddy and I am going to check what the amp draw actually is.
I would consider a trunk battery but with my dumb 2+2 mini trunk opening it would be VERY inconvenient to service the battery. I'd prefer to put it on the upper deck right over the rear axle so it doesn't interfere with putting stuff in the trunk but it's so far up there it's really hard to get to.
I like the 50% over capacity with 0.2V drop rule of thumb with the breaker for each pump near the pump idea. Do you put the relay still up front and back near the pumps?
I have a single relay under the hood but I would like to go to twin relays if I am running twin pumps unless 1 relay is better for some reason.
I was going to just spend $20 and buy something, but now that you have poked the bees nest I guess I am going to spend hours and twice the amount of money building something that is a 15% improvement over the off the shelf option
Some more food for thought, voltage drop and/or low voltage affects more than just your pump. It will affect your injectors in the same manner. The dead times, or opening times depending whom your talking to, are voltage sensitive. All of the aftermarket stuff will have a voltage correction table for injector times, and I have to believe that GM does as well.
Also, I tried running all of my systems off from the charge wire of the alternator as Mike recommended and found it cause to too much voltage fluctuation. I had an easier time having a consistent voltage from the battery. I found that I was battling inconsistent fuel trims when I was at max, or near max, amp draw. We were running a 100amp CS130 alternator and we were using about 85 amps when everything wass going full tilt. But when I swapped the supply to the battery and hooked the charge wire directly to the battery, then my voltage drop would be less than .3 or.4 volts during a full pull. I had the thought that the battery was more of a supply, or storage center, of amps. Perhaps I was completely incorrect, but I know that's what has worked out best for me.
I do not have my MC working in the same manner. I have a central power stud on the firewall that I have everything except the Holley and pumps hooked to , but it has a 135 amp alternator.
I'm curious if you have battery voltage at your injectors with the car running.
Also, I tried running all of my systems off from the charge wire of the alternator as Mike recommended and found it cause to too much voltage fluctuation. I had an easier time having a consistent voltage from the battery. I found that I was battling inconsistent fuel trims when I was at max, or near max, amp draw. We were running a 100amp CS130 alternator and we were using about 85 amps when everything wass going full tilt. But when I swapped the supply to the battery and hooked the charge wire directly to the battery, then my voltage drop would be less than .3 or.4 volts during a full pull. I had the thought that the battery was more of a supply, or storage center, of amps. Perhaps I was completely incorrect, but I know that's what has worked out best for me.
I do not have my MC working in the same manner. I have a central power stud on the firewall that I have everything except the Holley and pumps hooked to , but it has a 135 amp alternator.
I'm curious if you have battery voltage at your injectors with the car running.
