9" rear for my G-Body

[Cary Scott]

Btw, semi floater on a 9" with 4:10s on my 86 SS, 700r4, 383 pump gas with 600/520 on a full roller setup.

 

[Cary Scott]

Another side note, we can't run pro mod because we can't afford a full floater! Lol. That, and we can only run low 6's.

 

[lilbowtie]

Just because you go with a nine inch don't think your going to be bullet proof. There is still a lot to consider - type of case, bearing size, gears, spines, pinion, and yoke.

 

[bracketchev1221]

I can understand based on cost to upgrade yours and the benefits of a 9" with changing gears changing it. But based on strength you can build an 8.5 to live in your car. People were hitting them and going low 9's high 8's 30 years ago. I ran a 12 bolt in my 3200lbs when everybody said I needed at 9". I hit it with 800 Ftlbs of torque and a trans brake.

 

[michmalibuman]

I envy your setup. That 5th gear in the 600 I believe is a .64 ratio? If so, your gear choices are expanded. What diameter tire are you running? Anything over a 27 inch rear tire, I'd go with a 4.10. I would even consider a 4.30 or 4.56. I know those sound radical, but that thing would be a 'blast' on the street. Yet, it would still give livable revs on the highway using 5th gear.

I have a friend that just put a Currie in his old '65 Chevy, looks really nice. I'm confident most any of the 9 inch builders are a safe bet. Moser and Currie are names that have been doing it for years and can't go wrong with either one.

Yes, the 5th gear is a.64 and 1st is a 2.87 so I'm thinking with a 28" tire a 4.10 would be the best of both worlds. Thanks

 

[michmalibuman]

Full floating axles are typically for full on race applications, whereas semi floaters are better and cheaper for street use. Semis mate to a wheel flange of some sort and are designed to carry the weight of the vehicle where fulls are usually splined on both ends and are dedicated only to applying torque to the wheel. You'll need additional suspension upgrades to carry vehicle weight. Hope that helps.

Yes it does thanks, I had a Quick Change like that once. When you get old you some times forget. Thanks

 

[michmalibuman]

Just because you go with a nine inch don't think your going to be bullet proof. There is still a lot to consider - type of case, bearing size, gears, spines, pinion, and yoke.

Yes, you're right and that's why I'm asking for info. Thinking N case, big bearings, 31 spines, pinion support, billet yoke, and 11 " Disc W/PB. What else do I need to look at?

 

[michmalibuman]

I can understand based on cost to upgrade yours and the benefits of a 9" with changing gears changing it. But based on strength you can build an 8.5 to live in your car. People were hitting them and going low 9's high 8's 30 years ago. I ran a 12 bolt in my 3200lbs when everybody said I needed at 9". I hit it with 800 Ftlbs of torque and a trans brake.

I thought about building the 81/2 and then I thought sell it and use the money to offset the cost of the built 9". Thanks for you're input.

 

[michmalibuman]

Lots of good info and I want think everyone for chiming in. I want to build my car right. Any advice is good advice.

 

[Wraith]

The one thing(well not just one) I hate about the G-body is that a "real" rear end is big bucks. Have you considered the Strange S60? I've been looking at it after spec'ing out a 9" full floater.