This upgrade made a HUGE difference for me. My old hardware was only 2 years old on the calipers, rotators, and pads.
i am going to have my alignment looked at in a few weeks. But for now it is parked till it gets nicer out.
I just wanted to post an easy to do, bolt-on upgrade for our g-bodies braking system. This can be done with all GM parts, in just a few hours, and is a worthwhile upgrade for anyone looking to upgrade to a dual caliper braking system.
The thickness of the blazer rotator was 1.20" and the G-body was 1.0” the diameter is 10.5 in for the G-body and 10.78 for the blazer
To upgrade stock G-body brakes, you will be using 1998 ~ 2005 blazer / Jimmy Knuckles (2WD ONLY!)
Blazers allso came stock with 14" rims so stock seel rims will work
The 4wd might work but you would have to install the lower ball joint upside down. but that would not work any how because the 4wd ball joints are not pressed in there bolted in. and the 2wd and G-body ball joints are not made to install like that and would fall out, when you hit a bump... here is 2 pics comparing the two
4WD
VS
2WD
In my case I used spacers on my GTA rims to move them out so that is the only added setep here that you can ignore.
Here is where you start! Ugly rusty brakes wave bye bye :wavey:
Make sure to put a jack 1" under the lower arm to catch it, during removal. I just use a hamer to hit the lower control arm if it pops out good! If not, time to use the pickle fork.
Here is the knuckle installed. I recommend using a paper thin coat of RTV on the setting surface of the dust cover and the bearing/knuckle and filling the gap in the dust cover. If you don't do this it can let water in and trap it behind the hub bearing. That can lead to premature failure. Most after-market Hub bearings will give you a O-Ring for this purpose.
Hub bearing installed. The gap I mentioned is behind the ABS Sensor.
An important thing to note, is you will be using the stock G-body brake hose here. However, you will have to cut off the rubber boot on it so it can flex right. It’s not a big deal I just put some wire loom over. Just dont nick the F*ing brake hose!!!!
Here it is installed
You're all done just put your tire in and drive!
Thats it!!!
here are some shots comparing the 2 calapers
Torque Specs
Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts 77 ft.lb
Ball Joint (Lower) 79 ft.lb
Ball Joint (Upper) 61 ft.lb
Ball Joint (Upper Replacement Joint Bolts) 17 ft.lb
Here's some part number help.
Brake Caliper “Passanger side C599 & driver side C598” $45.00 new core $25 each
Brake Pad Caliper Bracket PN# 14-1105 and 14-1106 $11 each on Rockauto
Brake Rotor PN# (55047) $20~$40 each
Brake Pads PN# (726) $20.00~$60.00
Bearing Hub assembly PN# (513200) $50.00~$200.00 each
The knuckles I used came from the junkyard and cost me $50 each for the yard to pull for me, and also came with the Hub bearings. You can get Hub bearings cheep on line for $50~$60 new
and my 1 man bleeder system 😀 click for the video
i am going to have my alignment looked at in a few weeks. But for now it is parked till it gets nicer out.
I just wanted to post an easy to do, bolt-on upgrade for our g-bodies braking system. This can be done with all GM parts, in just a few hours, and is a worthwhile upgrade for anyone looking to upgrade to a dual caliper braking system.
The thickness of the blazer rotator was 1.20" and the G-body was 1.0” the diameter is 10.5 in for the G-body and 10.78 for the blazer
To upgrade stock G-body brakes, you will be using 1998 ~ 2005 blazer / Jimmy Knuckles (2WD ONLY!)
Blazers allso came stock with 14" rims so stock seel rims will work
The 4wd might work but you would have to install the lower ball joint upside down. but that would not work any how because the 4wd ball joints are not pressed in there bolted in. and the 2wd and G-body ball joints are not made to install like that and would fall out, when you hit a bump... here is 2 pics comparing the two
4WD
VS
2WD
In my case I used spacers on my GTA rims to move them out so that is the only added setep here that you can ignore.
Here is where you start! Ugly rusty brakes wave bye bye :wavey:
Make sure to put a jack 1" under the lower arm to catch it, during removal. I just use a hamer to hit the lower control arm if it pops out good! If not, time to use the pickle fork.
Here is the knuckle installed. I recommend using a paper thin coat of RTV on the setting surface of the dust cover and the bearing/knuckle and filling the gap in the dust cover. If you don't do this it can let water in and trap it behind the hub bearing. That can lead to premature failure. Most after-market Hub bearings will give you a O-Ring for this purpose.
Hub bearing installed. The gap I mentioned is behind the ABS Sensor.
An important thing to note, is you will be using the stock G-body brake hose here. However, you will have to cut off the rubber boot on it so it can flex right. It’s not a big deal I just put some wire loom over. Just dont nick the F*ing brake hose!!!!
Here it is installed
You're all done just put your tire in and drive!
Thats it!!!
here are some shots comparing the 2 calapers
Torque Specs
Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts 77 ft.lb
Ball Joint (Lower) 79 ft.lb
Ball Joint (Upper) 61 ft.lb
Ball Joint (Upper Replacement Joint Bolts) 17 ft.lb
Here's some part number help.
Brake Caliper “Passanger side C599 & driver side C598” $45.00 new core $25 each
Brake Pad Caliper Bracket PN# 14-1105 and 14-1106 $11 each on Rockauto
Brake Rotor PN# (55047) $20~$40 each
Brake Pads PN# (726) $20.00~$60.00
Bearing Hub assembly PN# (513200) $50.00~$200.00 each
The knuckles I used came from the junkyard and cost me $50 each for the yard to pull for me, and also came with the Hub bearings. You can get Hub bearings cheep on line for $50~$60 new
and my 1 man bleeder system 😀 click for the video
