A Fabricobbler's Guide to the Turbo Buick Galaxy- Cutlass Rehash

Bought a set of 255/60 drag radials and mounted them on my 8.5" vectors. Pro they fit the wheel and frame great, con the backspace is a bit small and they are closer to the quarter than I'm comfortable with. I've gotta roll the lip and get some more clearance.
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The headliner I redid in 2010 fell down so picked up some fabric and replaced it. Kinda a bummer that it only lasted 14 years but it's an easy replacement and only cost $75 for glue and fabric.
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Got the other drag radial mounted and rolled both fender lips. A baseball bat works better then the actual tool.

Bought an e85 chip from turbo tweak, I plan on going with a Holley ECU but I don't have the time to rewire the car this summer so just a stop gap measure for drag weekend in September

Also got my passenger window to go up all the way, it was a manual window car and I put electric regulators in but for some reason they didn't have enough travel and the window was always 1/4 down even though it was adjusted right

I also got the torque converter lockup wired in, just never got the power wire connected.

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E85 chip from TT came in and I swapped the injectors over to the 60lb'ers

Took it for a drive last night (probably the most aggressive I've ever launched the setup) as the trans can actually take the power and I don't have to worry about knock retard. I actually trust this chip vs. the old 42lb injector Reds chip I had with 91 and GTP 37lb injectors cranked to 4 bar so it made them into 42lbers.

-Makes about 12-13psi so far, I got the chip burned for up to 20 psi and the stock turbo will allegedly run high 11's at 22ish psi before it runs out of breath. I don't expect it to make it that far as I have another 20 cubic inch of displacement over the 3.8. I already have an adjustable wastegate so adding boost is easy, I'll probably bump it to 15psi for now and take it to the track, if it runs good on day 2 or 3 of drag weekend I might turn the boost to 18 and see what it does
-Fueling is pretty decent, I have a Wideband and scanmaster with the stock ECU and chip with a MAF translator so 1994's best tech haha. It's 11.8-13.0 in boost according to my wideband at the 12psi setting. 130F intake air temp with the temp sensor relocated in the manifold runner. The knock sensor never sees any detonation where it used to see regular detonation in the 2-4 degree range even on 91.
-Makes about 3psi brake boosting before it spins the street tires. From an off-idle launch it squwaks the tires pretty good at about a 5mph roll. The extra displacement, good converter and 3.73's mean there is almost no turbo lag and definitely needs the drag radials.

I'm happy overall. I need to change the fluids and take it to the track for a test pass before drag weekend next month. If it runs high/mid 12's I'd be happy. I fully expect to find some issue(s). I think this setup will max out at high 11's with the stock turbo and intercooler in good air and a good track. Considering the car has never been to the track, test and tune night track prep is almost always a crap shoot, and it's August so the air is likely hot, I don't expect anything in the 11's this year.


Trying to keep the engine from detonating itself apart. It's got good spark with the LS coil on plug setup, a reliable MAF, good 525 walbro fuel pump, a decent chip, flow'ed and cleaned injectors, relatively fresh valve springs, so I basically am giving it everything I can (minus a powerlogger to monitor data) to keep it healthy.

Biggest concern I have is just overloading the pistons from boost. They are mismatched early 90's era 30 over TRW replacements. 4 came out of this engine and 2 came out of the engine that the crank came out of. It makes no significant vibration so I don't think it's out of balance but 20psi is a lot on a basic parts store replacement piston from 30 years ago. Reportedly OEM 3.8 GN pistons are really good hypereutectic AL, I can't image these TRW's are anything special. Forged 4.1 replacement pistons are basically all custom and $$$ so when I put this setup together in 2017 I was 1 year out of college and cheap/broke. I am less broke but still cheap so living with my past self haha.

Either way I am happy it runs as good as it does.
 
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Drove the 150 mile round trip to the 1/8 mile last night for some test passes.

My goals were to make the trip without a trailer, not break, make sure the trans shifts under full power, make sure it can do a sub 2.0 60ft without wheel hop or tire shudder.

If I ran in the 12's (1/4 equivalent) I'd call it a win.

Did the drive without issue, trans shifts good and got a best of 1.9 60ft smoothly with only 2psi on the launch.

Ran a best of 8.70 at 79mph which is like a 13.55 at 100ish in the 1/4. I thought it was a bit slow but it's faster than a bone stock GN and the DA was 3750ft so it corrected to a 13.00ish.

Problems, the boost flutters a lot in WOT, could be a cheap gage. Brakes are weak and I can only make 2psi on the line before it pushes through the beams.

I need to identify if the boost gage flutter is real or just bad data from a old cheap gage and get better front brakes on the thing.

If I can brake boost launch it to maybe 5-7psi and get the boost consistent to 18-20psi at the top end of the track in decent air I think a low 12 is feasible which is all I expect for a stock turbo and intercooler.

Video of boost flutter

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