Think you've got problems, gimme a minute.
Okay, that solitary green wire that is hanging in the wind all by its lonesome may prove to be the harness wire for the temperature sending unit, The default location depends on a few things but typically the sender was screwed into the driver's side cylinder head between 1 and 3. Alternatively there could have been a boss for it on the original intake on the original motor. Third choice could have been one of the bosses that were part of the water neck.
The computer being connected to the 3/8ths stud on the starter solenoid is both normal and typical. Being connected there gives it direct access to power from the battery + terminal; no power drop due to distance.
One of other greens in that multiple harness may have ended up at the oil pressure switch-idiot light version. The default convention for ground is usually the black wire. DO NOT quote me on that as you might easily find that all the wires in your headlight harness at the rad cradle look to be black. They aren't but can appear that way.
Now, since all this is about wiring, that is exactly what I have been buried in for the last week!! You think classic car harnesses are bad, try a vintage one where all the wires were covered in cotton wrap and some kind of waterproofing goop. As installed they were all kinds of pretty colors;' after ?? decades, pretty much all black and burnt and stench and cracked and broken and field fixed and left. This project was one that I originally started over Five years ago. And back then it was a rehash of a wiring project that had been done in the late 70's early 80's?? None of the diagrams match what is currently present in the subsystems. Physically I can only work on it for about 2-3 hours before my back goes into spasm mode and I have to quit. Where a wiring diagram can appear as a single page, I now have 4 pages of notes detailing what goes where and the colors of the wires involved. And i am not done yet. Why bother with the updates? As cars have evolved, their various subsystems have become more complicated and the wiring harnesses have grown more spaghettied to match. As has been pointed out by several respondees to this thread, a good manual is almost an absolute necessity when it comes time to deal with old.
Given what you appear to be dealing with and the damage that seems to be apparent, it is possible that the simplest fix might be to locate a same year/same model car in a dead yard some place and see if the engine bay/rad cradle wiring harness is intact from the firewall bulkhead connection forward. You may hear this being called C100. It is located on the driver's side behind the inner wheel well and below where the wiper motor is supposed to be. To remove it there is a big centre bolt through the middle of the plug that you unscrew and then GENTLY prise the plug asssembly off its base. This is a definite patience moment because that plug will almost be glued in place with sealer so be gentle. After. or before that, you need to trace the wires that come off that plug and detach them carefully from their locations. Masking tape and a pen or pencil will be your friend as each wire needs to be tagged as to what it was attached to. Cell phone to take pictures also helps. Take the whole thing all the way to the headlights and horn. You can't easily piecemeal a newer one to gether with your current lump so a complete swap out and replacement may deliver the least amount of stress.
Nick
Okay, that solitary green wire that is hanging in the wind all by its lonesome may prove to be the harness wire for the temperature sending unit, The default location depends on a few things but typically the sender was screwed into the driver's side cylinder head between 1 and 3. Alternatively there could have been a boss for it on the original intake on the original motor. Third choice could have been one of the bosses that were part of the water neck.
The computer being connected to the 3/8ths stud on the starter solenoid is both normal and typical. Being connected there gives it direct access to power from the battery + terminal; no power drop due to distance.
One of other greens in that multiple harness may have ended up at the oil pressure switch-idiot light version. The default convention for ground is usually the black wire. DO NOT quote me on that as you might easily find that all the wires in your headlight harness at the rad cradle look to be black. They aren't but can appear that way.
Now, since all this is about wiring, that is exactly what I have been buried in for the last week!! You think classic car harnesses are bad, try a vintage one where all the wires were covered in cotton wrap and some kind of waterproofing goop. As installed they were all kinds of pretty colors;' after ?? decades, pretty much all black and burnt and stench and cracked and broken and field fixed and left. This project was one that I originally started over Five years ago. And back then it was a rehash of a wiring project that had been done in the late 70's early 80's?? None of the diagrams match what is currently present in the subsystems. Physically I can only work on it for about 2-3 hours before my back goes into spasm mode and I have to quit. Where a wiring diagram can appear as a single page, I now have 4 pages of notes detailing what goes where and the colors of the wires involved. And i am not done yet. Why bother with the updates? As cars have evolved, their various subsystems have become more complicated and the wiring harnesses have grown more spaghettied to match. As has been pointed out by several respondees to this thread, a good manual is almost an absolute necessity when it comes time to deal with old.
Given what you appear to be dealing with and the damage that seems to be apparent, it is possible that the simplest fix might be to locate a same year/same model car in a dead yard some place and see if the engine bay/rad cradle wiring harness is intact from the firewall bulkhead connection forward. You may hear this being called C100. It is located on the driver's side behind the inner wheel well and below where the wiper motor is supposed to be. To remove it there is a big centre bolt through the middle of the plug that you unscrew and then GENTLY prise the plug asssembly off its base. This is a definite patience moment because that plug will almost be glued in place with sealer so be gentle. After. or before that, you need to trace the wires that come off that plug and detach them carefully from their locations. Masking tape and a pen or pencil will be your friend as each wire needs to be tagged as to what it was attached to. Cell phone to take pictures also helps. Take the whole thing all the way to the headlights and horn. You can't easily piecemeal a newer one to gether with your current lump so a complete swap out and replacement may deliver the least amount of stress.
Nick
