after market guage problem

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wonderboy24

Royal Smart Person
Jul 10, 2012
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Davenport, Iowa
okay guys need some input. trying to hook up a electric temp gauge. there is a sensor i installed in the intake. there is one wire that runs from that to the (s) probe on my gauge. there is (I) for ignition i hook that to a ignition source. (G) that is for the ground. i have inline fuse wich it calls for and when i hook the power to the gauge it blows the ignition fuse and not the inline fuse. i removed the gauge from my cluster (aluminum) and re hook everything up (not in the cluster) and it dont blow the fuse. i am lost at this point temp gauge is the only one that is giving me problems. ANY IDEAS ? here is the install instructions.
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It should run just like a factory gauge the "S" would be the tan or green (depending on year) circuit #35 sender to gauge, "I" would be the pink circuit #39 ignition on/crank , "G" would be the black circuit #150 ground. Keep the "S" direct sender to gauge, "I" should be plugged into one of the "IGN" ports fused off the 20 amp gauges fuse, "G" tied into one of the body grounds under the dash. The engine block should ground the sender.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Injectedcutty
thats how i have it. so it makes no sense why it is blowing fuse's. i ran new wires for the gauges. wondering is i have a bad gauge. still wondering why it dont blow the in line fuse
 
if you have a multi meter you can check the gauge for a short. I used the power feed that was for the stock gauges to power my 4 aftermarket gauges that uses the fuse for the gauges in the fuse block.
 
Sounds to me like it's shorting out. You said it only does it when the gauge is installed in the aluminum cluster, right? Is that cluster grounded? I think the gauge may be faulty and it's shorting out through the cluster. Check for that and see if that's the problem.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Texas82GP
i was thinking it is the gauge as well because,volt,gas,oil all work hooked as they are supposed and they dont blow the fuse. how do i check to see if the gauge is shorting out.
 
with a multimeter gauge check for continuity between the body of the gauge and I spade, if there is none there check the G spade and I spade for continuity. You can use the OHM measurement and it should be open, if there is any resistance that is a short.
 
I would probably also check it while it's in the cluster. Check for continuity between the power wire and the cluster body with no power on the circuit.
 
I mean the connection that the 12V power goes to and the body of the cluster with the gauge installed. Also follow pontiacgp's instructions.
 
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