Pontiacgp, did you put the piston BDC then fill the cylinder with cord and rotate the motor by hand to compress the cord a little bit?
Almost dropped a valve. Need input.
- Thread starter Tad Farmer
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I have one ready and standing by. As far as adjusting lash once I have the valve train assembled again. I am going to set all the rockers at 0 lash, start the motor and then adjust each rocker while the motor is running. Back the nut off till it starts tapping, tighten down till it stops then I was thinking of going 1/2 turn and seeing how it does. That is what I have been reading and watching videos in last couple of days. Correct me if i am wrong or if there is a better way.
Greetings Tad & all; You got some good advice here. Since I usually spent all my hot rod money on going faster I didn't get a compressor until just a few years ago so I used the rope method & still prefer it to a compressor. As I don't like listening to the noise of the compressor. Also if I get distracted the rope will hold the valves up until it rots. Just a recap, remove spark plug, stuff the cylinder full of rope (I like cotton close line), turn engine by HAND until it locks. Do valve work, back crank off just a bit to remove rope. And for adjusting valves you're on a good path, but be warned that if you don't set the push rod into the lifter plunger at least a 1/4 turn you risk the retaining clip-spring popping out of the lifter, I've seen it happen. As we use to set Hyd lifters to 0 or just a 1/4 turn to reduce pump up valve float. Way back when a hyd lifter would pump up & float the valves at anything above 5500-6000 RPM. Things have changed now days as many hyd lifters will go 7000! For many years I used Rhoads zero lash hyds in place of a solid cam. A pain in the butt to adjust but they worked very well. Now days (2004 build) I run solid rollers designed for street use. But cam & lifter technology has surpassed that thought now. Good luck, Ole' Bob.
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