if you want to remove the drag of the alternator from the engine some circle track racers have it mounted near the differential
...Just don't get stuck in traffic... at night 🙂
Anyone Feel Like Running a Mechanical Fan?
- Thread starter motorheadmike
- Start date
- Status
...Just don't get stuck in traffic... at night 🙂
um... a G-body charges the battery when idling. If it didn't you'd kill batteries pretty quickly especially with an electric fuel pump, fan, etc. My jag made it all of 17 minutes without an alternator and it has a huge battery. My Diesel ram made it 2 hours and it has 2 huge batteries. Both were in the daytime. Take off another 30% at night.
Greetings Guys; This is one reason why this forum is so good. Everyones circumstances are a little different, but on doubt electric wins in the end. Simply because of mass (less for electric) & control (no need to spin it 6500 RPM when the car is moving at speed). Now enter the UNDER drive pulleys for the accessory's (water pump, alt & PS) & put yourself in Power Tour traffic on a hot day, raining with wipers, headlights & AC on, Oh did I forget the Fuel pump! Now add another 30 amp draw for electric cooling fans. I can tell you from experience that combo won't work with a 100 amp alternator. So now not only do you need the electric cooling fans, you also need a higher amp alternator and better consider a serpentine belt system. Because a V belt will not like all that additional loading. Then you will have to replace the power steering pump & I believe all the brackets. And at that point maybe a new water pump because it may want to turn the other direction. So the $30 at the junk yard electric cooling fans went from a can of worms to a pale of snakes (used stuff a few $ hundred) to a barrel of octopus (all new Hi end stuff) & a couple of grand ($2000.00). All that cost to gain 6 to 8 Lbs Ft of Torque. My $.02 cents, if your starting from scratch electric of course, but if you already have a V belts & a CLUTCH fan combo think this through very carefully. Ole' Bob.
Attachments
Okay, so not trying to hijack this thread, but wow that video and subsequent discussion blew what little of my mind is left.
Now I am all fired up to switch out to electric.. I have fully drank this Kool Aid.
But before I run off in all directions to get this done, what are the recommends for an electric set up?
Taurus or Intrepid fan set up seems to be the budget option. Relay and switches too.
Any recommends or best set ups?
While I am at it I am now also thinking of going electric water and fuel pump too. Any recommends for these as well?
I figure should be okay with an Optima YellowTop battery.
Now I am all fired up to switch out to electric.. I have fully drank this Kool Aid.
But before I run off in all directions to get this done, what are the recommends for an electric set up?
Taurus or Intrepid fan set up seems to be the budget option. Relay and switches too.
Any recommends or best set ups?
While I am at it I am now also thinking of going electric water and fuel pump too. Any recommends for these as well?
I figure should be okay with an Optima YellowTop battery.
The easiest/most prevalent dual fans at the junkyard are the in 300M's. Early Intrepids/concords/eagles/LHS's have a fan with one long motor and one short motor, but all 300M's have dual short motors. Stratus and other cars have a similar fan, but 300M's are easy to spot and junkyards are full of them in 2017.
The 300M fan has dual relays mounted on the fan. These are "5 wire" relays, but only have 4 wires, but its easy to add another wire to make them 5 wire relays.
I made this diagram as a potential wiring option:
With this setup, the fans come on in series when the key is on (low speed) in Series, the fans share 12 volts and the whole system draws less than 6 Amps. When the water temp sensor switches the fans to parallel (at say 200 degrees), each fan gets 12 volts and the system draws about 20 amps total.
When the fans transition between low and high, since they already moving at 1/2 speed, the amp spike is much less than turning on/off of a single speed setup (which could spike amps close to 30 until the fans reach full speed).
The 300M fan has dual relays mounted on the fan. These are "5 wire" relays, but only have 4 wires, but its easy to add another wire to make them 5 wire relays.
I made this diagram as a potential wiring option:
With this setup, the fans come on in series when the key is on (low speed) in Series, the fans share 12 volts and the whole system draws less than 6 Amps. When the water temp sensor switches the fans to parallel (at say 200 degrees), each fan gets 12 volts and the system draws about 20 amps total.
When the fans transition between low and high, since they already moving at 1/2 speed, the amp spike is much less than turning on/off of a single speed setup (which could spike amps close to 30 until the fans reach full speed).
An electric fan is a no brainer, I would activate it off of water temp. Unless it's a drag car your not going to see any great gains from the electric water pump, the hp loss is at high rpm - an under-drive would be a good bet. As far as the fuel you won't see anything.
One more beating of the dead horse:
All of the thermal clutching fan tests were run behind a fake, "cold" radiator. Put a 200 degree radiator in front of a thermo clutching fan and its going to cost you 25-30 HP and not "7 HP".
With a clutching fan, my 2+2 above 4000 RPM sounded like a P-51 Mustang when it got hot. That noise was the sound of lost HP.
All of the thermal clutching fan tests were run behind a fake, "cold" radiator. Put a 200 degree radiator in front of a thermo clutching fan and its going to cost you 25-30 HP and not "7 HP".
With a clutching fan, my 2+2 above 4000 RPM sounded like a P-51 Mustang when it got hot. That noise was the sound of lost HP.
- Status
Similar threads
