Well I noticed today that my combination/ proportioning valve is leaking unfortunately. I have already had it rebuilt twice and it sure looks like it's time to find another option. I was originally going to replace it but there are way way way to many horror stories and bad reviews of the replacement brass ones. Doesn't seem to matter where they are purchased. ( I'm sure they are all the same.) Has anybody found a good quality replacement one?
Anyone find a good replacement proportioning valve?
- Thread starter mc1984ss
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Raybestos makes one, RockAuto has it in stock for $80 PN:MC39849PV or you might just wanna try to find an original NOS on eBay
The one I have on my Regal (disc/drum) is from Inline Tube and has been on there since 2015 with no issues.
Also all of my brake lines are NiCopp, which is really easy to work with.
Also all of my brake lines are NiCopp, which is really easy to work with.
78-88 G-Body Disc Drum Brake Line Proportioning Valve Combo 5Port Non Adjustable | eBay
PR100 Brass Proportional valve for disc in the front and drum in the rear. <br>Application 74-86 Fits Jeep CJ5 CJ6 CJ7 CJ8 and all full size Cherokee, Wagoneer, j10-j20 truck also used to convert early jeeps over to disc brakes. <br>This is the standard valve made by delco that fits hundreds of...
www.ebay.com
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Yup. Inline Tube does their ebay sales through this seller. Much cheaper than buying it directly from them. I have two of these. Bought them at the same time for my wagon and my coupe.The one I have on my Regal (disc/drum) is from Inline Tube and has been on there since 2015 with no issues.
Also all of my brake lines are NiCopp, which is really easy to work with.
78-88 G-Body Disc Drum Brake Line Proportioning Valve Combo 5Port Non Adjustable | eBay
PR100 Brass Proportional valve for disc in the front and drum in the rear. <br>Application 74-86 Fits Jeep CJ5 CJ6 CJ7 CJ8 and all full size Cherokee, Wagoneer, j10-j20 truck also used to convert early jeeps over to disc brakes. <br>This is the standard valve made by delco that fits hundreds of...www.ebay.com
I put in a Disc/Disc one back in 2016 when I did my C5Z06 Front Disc Brakes swap. It's brass and I've not had any issues with it. Where is yours leaking from? Not much to them.
Sample size of one,
but my aftermarket brass disk-disk prop valve failed the first time I pressed the pedal. All the aftermarket ones look the same at a wide range in price difference. There are 2 options, either all of them are made by the same company and reboxed under different names and various different price points, or there are 2+ places making them and they just so happen to use an identical design.
Are you looking for an OEM replacement or a disk-disk setup?
Summit/willwood has an adjustable one available for about the same price as a high price point brass one.
I'd look for an OEM cast iron one off a parted out car or a willwood before going with a brass one.
but my aftermarket brass disk-disk prop valve failed the first time I pressed the pedal. All the aftermarket ones look the same at a wide range in price difference. There are 2 options, either all of them are made by the same company and reboxed under different names and various different price points, or there are 2+ places making them and they just so happen to use an identical design.
Are you looking for an OEM replacement or a disk-disk setup?
Summit/willwood has an adjustable one available for about the same price as a high price point brass one.
I'd look for an OEM cast iron one off a parted out car or a willwood before going with a brass one.
This is the aftermarket adjustable one I mentioned. If I swapped from an OEM cast iron one, that's one of the few I would consider. I ended up putting my OEM cast iron one back on (with the residual pressure valve removed) and reinstalled on my 2+2 after the brass one failed for my rear disk swap. The front/rear bias was fine even though it was 'wrong' and a disk/drum one.
The reason I am against all brass ones, regardless of mfg, is that it's a brake related component that can fail at any time and you can loose ALL of your brakes. There are wide reports of their being 'bad' ones in circulation. Because they all look the same, I am not confident if you pay $80 for a quality one that you aren't getting a counterfeit or if there is any benefit.
The reason I am against all brass ones, regardless of mfg, is that it's a brake related component that can fail at any time and you can loose ALL of your brakes. There are wide reports of their being 'bad' ones in circulation. Because they all look the same, I am not confident if you pay $80 for a quality one that you aren't getting a counterfeit or if there is any benefit.
I was talking about disk/disk proportioning valve and MC swap with father of son's friend. He's got some 565 BBC '70 Nova racecar; I was surprised how much of a heavy hitter he is.... anyway, he said he went with no combination valve (like 1971 corvette?) and just runs the front and rear brake circuits directly from the master cylinder. Mind blown.
I've had no problem with my $50-$60 inline tube disk/drum proportioning valve in the Oldsmobile. The Chevrolet will eventually get the disk/disk Built6spdMCSS shows in the palm of his hands. I do my business with inline tube.... haven't been disappointed.
I've had no problem with my $50-$60 inline tube disk/drum proportioning valve in the Oldsmobile. The Chevrolet will eventually get the disk/disk Built6spdMCSS shows in the palm of his hands. I do my business with inline tube.... haven't been disappointed.
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