At a loss......

[rubio9800]

The fusible link is a special wire that goes from the regular red 12AWG to the ring terminal at the starter. Its the black wire in the picture. Link wire had to be 2 sizes smaller than the wire its protecting. Thats why its 16AWG. Its not hard to replace. If yours are bad, measure the length from the ring terminal to the center of the factory barrel connector. Cut the link wire to the same length. Use a crimp butt connector with the built in shrink tubing and splice it in. I used regular shrink tubing on top just to give it a little extra protection.

got it, i see that fuseable link is a specific type of wire

 

[rubio9800]

You can buy fusible link wire at Napa. The gauge is specific to an amperage rating. If you google it, then you'll find an amp rating chart. It's very popular in metric measurements.

learn something new everyday 🙂

 

[mikester]

learn something new everyday 🙂

Its usually different colors for different sizes. Black would be for 12AWG and blue for 10AWG. You'll need black.

 

[rubio9800]

alright folks , i think i did it right.

I took off alternator belt , left everything else on.

-battery before start 12.45v
-12.24v engine running
-distributor 12.05v

it did not remain ON though, i was able to restart it few times with same result.

Engine did sputter once on the last one, couldn’t restart it after


fusible links next?

 

[fleming442]

Hook up a battery charger, disconnect the fuel line at the carb, crank the engine to see if the fuel pump is working. Use a catch can!

 

[mikester]

alright folks , i think i did it right.

I took off alternator belt , left everything else on.

-battery before start 12.45v
-12.24v engine running
-distributor 12.05v

it did not remain ON though, i was able to restart it few times with same result.

Engine did sputter once on the last one, couldn’t restart it after


fusible links next?

Did you check the fuel filter ?

 

[rubio9800]

Did you check the fuel filter ?

yes, i changed it when i first got the car.

 

[rubio9800]

Hook up a battery charger, disconnect the fuel line at the carb, crank the engine to see if the fuel pump is working. Use a catch can!

sounds messy , how difficult would be to replace the fuel pump? i see it’s a cheap part, don’t mind changing as a test.

 

[g0thiac]

sorry for the vagueness , this is the most i’ve done on a car lol, i’m more of a computer guy

the engine does not sputter when it dies, the lights work, stereo works.

i did replace the ignition module and applied the paste it came with. the paste was not white, was clear. don’t know how to tell if the ignition module could be bad?

when it starts i wouldn’t say it’s running rough, not too confident in being able to tell .

Same, my skillset is I.T. more than being a mechanic.

But tbh, you can rule out a fusible link. Because those WILL burn up, if there is too much current flowing into them.

From what I've gathered so far, your vehicle has the engine shut off, after running for a bit of time.

To me, that seems like either the following.

1. Grounding issue.
2. Distributor issue.
3. Fuel issue.

However, given the fact your voltages are spiking, it's a good idea to check your grounds like I said, but also your wiring harness too. Shorts can cause issues like that.

And also, check your fusebox, for bad contacts and fuses. Now do you see anything labelled ECM or BCM there?

If so, you may want to disconnect the computer completely and use a distributor that isn't dependent on the CCC.

 

[pagrunt]

I'd say try another coil since I didn't notice that you said it was replaced. With the fuel side also check for kinks in the line too. When I first put my '72 Monte together back in the '90's I put a too long rubber line at the gas tank that ended up starving the carb when I put my foot in it causing it to stall due to a kink in that line.