Battery cable lugs: solder or crimp?

[mikester]

When it came time for me to buy cables for both of my cars my original plan was to have them made at the local auto parts. Then I found CE Auto Electric out in AR. Owners a car guy and drag racer. His cables are extremely well made. Not cheap but in my opinion worth every penny. Take a look at his website. Even if you have a set already. Great guy to deal with and I had them a few days after I ordered them.

Good stuff.

 

[joesregalproject]

I always crimp lugs on big cables. I have a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper that works great although the sizes that are marked on the jaws are not accurate.

Sometimes I'll tin around the connection with solder after crimping, but that isn't really based on any science, it just seems like it's maybe a good idea.

 

[64nailhead]

Air in the joint is the issue. Properly soldering the cable into the lug resolves this. But you guys are correct, an extensive heat source can melt the solder. I've never seen it happen, but it seems logical. I can safely say though, crimping and then using a non-adhesive lined piece of heat shrink is expediting the next replacement.

Personally, I do both and use adhesive lined heat shrink 🤷‍♂️

 

[bracketchev1221]

I have a manual crimper plier from harbor freight and have used it on all my battery cables.

 

[403Olds]

I like to solder them, but yes, they are subject to brittleness and vibration failure. One thing I do on either connector is to use the marine heatshrink. That has the sealer on the inside and helps to protect the connection from moisture.

 

[Rocknrod]

I have a hydraulic crimper. When making battery cables I put the solder slug in the terminal heat it with a small torch to melt the solder. Then stick the copper strands into the terminal. Then take it over to hydraulic crimper and giver er.

 

[69hurstolds]

Have any of y'all actually SEEN factory GM G-body battery cables? Anything the aftermarket can bring is likely larger than the heavy duty "speaker wire" they seemingly made them from. If you're not worried about originality, then go with the fatter stuff on the cables.

 

[86LK]

Have any of y'all actually SEEN factory GM G-body battery cables? Anything the aftermarket can bring is likely larger than the heavy duty "speaker wire" they seemingly made them from. If you're not worried about originality, then go with the fatter stuff on the cables.

View attachment 233864

if you still want to make your own, goto the junkyard, find a ~2000 BMW with trunk mounted battery, pull the 20-25' of cable that runs to the engine bay. think I paid $1/ft for copper cable as big around as my thumb

 

[Bonnewagon]

With this project I am constrained by the hardware. I was so focused on getting the wire gauge and post diameter right, I ordered lugs forgetting that they were blind, so I can't solder them easily. No biggie. I got a very nice TEMco hammer crimper direct from TEMco, for the best price and free shipping to boot. I was a bit skeptical but after just one crimp, I am a believer. I pulled on it as hard as I could and it is a pretty stout crimp. Some shrink wrapping to finish it off and I think it is as good as it can get. Testing showed zero resistance added by the crimp. See pics. Crimped, before shrink, and after shrink. Then the TEMco hammer crimper. I thought I might need to use a vise or press, but just a few good shots with a small sledge did the trick.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Have any of y'all actually SEEN factory GM G-body battery cables? Anything the aftermarket can bring is likely larger than the heavy duty "speaker wire" they seemingly made them from. If you're not worried about originality, then go with the fatter stuff on the cables.

View attachment 233864

Keep in mind that stock powerplants for these cars don't have as big of an electrical demand like modern cars do. Most G bodies lack electric fuel pumps and / or electric fans which both are electric power hogs.