Battery keeps dying.

[Clone TIE Pilot]

I already performed this test as stated before.

I do not think it is #2 but likely #1 with #3 compounding the problem. The starter is over a decade old.

 

[64nailhead]

Starter Current Draw Test: Testing Starter Motor

If a vehicle dispays no starting or slow starting conditions a starter current draw test may be in order. How to perform a starter current draw test. What is a starter current draw test? No start and slow start troubleshooting resulting from starter problems

www.freeasestudyguides.com

This is a standard test we use on big truck starters. If the battery cables are in question then we power the starter with an additional set of cables from a single, in good condition, 950 amp battery. Anything over 500 amps for a 13-15liter is definitely a problem.

We have a super crazy expensive tool that is an OEM essential tool from Midtronics. It will do everything except put the sugar in your bowl of Wheaties every morning. But a budget amp clamp with a range of 1000amps will get it done.

Also, I have a local starter/alternator shop near me that will test any starter or alternator for free. If you had one near you that did the same, then it wouldn’t be a waste of your money to get your starter tested.

 

[g0thiac]

So lets see what we have figured out so far.

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Your alternator puts out only 13v, rather than over 14 like normal.

You’ve used multiple batteries with no change from what I can see.

And you are having more drains of power than what’s considered regular.

---

So…

Be simple. You can remove the battery connections, after parking. Measure that voltage. With that said, compare it to what it’s like connected when you drive next.

Becuase this way, you know if it’s from the starter or something thats drawing power after the car is done being used for the day.

Let me know what happens after you have finished both comparing, thanks.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

So lets see what we have figured out so far.

---

Your alternator puts out only 13v, rather than over 14 like normal.

You’ve used multiple batteries with no change from what I can see.

And you are having more drains of power than what’s considered regular.

---

So…

Be simple. You can remove the battery connections, after parking. Measure that voltage. With that said, compare it to what it’s like connected when you drive next.

Becuase this way, you know if it’s from the starter or something thats drawing power after the car is done being used for the day.

Let me know what happens after you have finished both comparing, thanks.

I didn't test the voltage while the engine was running. I disabled the ignition while I cranked the starter over to measure the starter voltage drop so the 13 volts is the battery alone.

Normally the engine will start and run fine. But if I shut it down and restart, the starter is weak even if I only run the engine for a few minutes. Not long enough for a heat soak.

 

[Rt Jam]

The paralistic draw is not your problem here. Not saying you don't have a draw but think of it like leaving the interior light on.

After a battery charge. You start engine and restart. The restart is the problem. A super slow low drain will not prevent you from a second start.

 

[86LK]

The paralistic draw is not your problem here. Not saying you don't have a draw but think of it like leaving the interior light on.

After a battery charge. You start engine and restart. The restart is the problem. A super slow low drain will not prevent you from a second start.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Just to update this thread, I found in the GM factory service manual that starter voltage drop should be no less than 9.6 volts. So the 9.5 drop is a little too low. Also used the carbon pile tester on the two cable leads. No voltage drop on the original positive with pos lead on the starter loop and neg lead on the neg battery terminal. Did the similar test on the negative cable and found a .80 volt loss. Its a replacement cable too, figures.

 

[REZREGAL13]

It doesn't seem to be a parasitic drain. Even right after fully recrarging the battery the starter will drain it in a few cranks.

Traded for my 87 regal with this problem initially guy couldnt figure it I had the same sh*t happening even after 3 NEW batteries and 2 NEW alternators i went to tint the rear window and disconnected the brake light to remove the housing for the tint job seemed my rear window brake light(or "Rear center windshield stopper lamp post pre trunk area illuminator whatever") was burnt out i didnt realize it and even just having it in the system was draining especially with lights running at nighttime i thought it was some brake booster x over nonsense but as soon as i disconnected the light altogether it did absolutely fine so go through check your interior lights and signal/ID lamps and bulbs and such. I wouldve saved myself alot of angry nights if i had someone offer it up to me

 

[CopperNick]

You want the first tester. That is a load pile tester that is used to apply a momentary load on the battery to determine if it is still able to take and hold a charge. A typical battery charger can bring the voltage up to the proper value, about 13.5 volts more or less but that does not tell you if, internally, the plates and cells are in working order and can absorb and hold that charge. Thing here is that the more plates that get stuffed into a battery case, the thinner they are and the closer to each other they are set at the factory. This makes them fragile internally and prone to suffering damage from having the plates shift and bang into each other. You can't see the damage but it cripples the ability of the battery to hold its charge. Hence the need for the load test.

The other thing is that there are actually only a few companies that do manufacture batteries; they just do it for a lot of brand names.



Nick

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Traded for my 87 regal with this problem initially guy couldnt figure it I had the same sh*t happening even after 3 NEW batteries and 2 NEW alternators i went to tint the rear window and disconnected the brake light to remove the housing for the tint job seemed my rear window brake light(or "Rear center windshield stopper lamp post pre trunk area illuminator whatever") was burnt out i didnt realize it and even just having it in the system was draining especially with lights running at nighttime i thought it was some brake booster x over nonsense but as soon as i disconnected the light altogether it did absolutely fine so go through check your interior lights and signal/ID lamps and bulbs and such. I wouldve saved myself alot of angry nights if i had someone offer it up to me

I converted my 3rd brake light and dome light to LED.

I think I have fixed the issue. The alternator mounts were dirty as well as the various mounting brackets and spacers. Took the time to take them all a part to clean them. Seems to be working fine now.