Bit By the Bug

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I am a fan of doing the lowers and double adjustable uppers. There is no downside. Set your pinion angle so that the car plants the tires instead of lifting the rear and unloading the tires. Somebody on here just posted on here tonight about picking up an 8.5 and saying that they were going to have the support cover for there 7.5 to sell. You are a long way from needing a ford 9. A ford 9 will soak up more power that assuming the same traction would slow your time a little and eat up a little more fuel. Drag radials would help but are not needed yet. Do you have an air bag for your right rear spring? It will help pre load the suspension for best traction. ie two even flat black marks from a burnout that does not involve brakes.

I bought my GN new. I remember going the GS Nationals back in 88 the first time I had ever been to a dragstrip. Got to do some test and tune passes. Car was box stock and I had no idea what I was doing. But by the end of the day with a little coaching I ran a couple 13.9s & 14.0s at 99mph. Box stock suspension and little 215/65/15 eagle GTs. 23 years ago and I still like the dragstrip. Pat you probably should have stayed out. :lol:
 
That cam is pretty decent ran it in m 400 and loved it going solid now though according to the guy that designed both cams the new cam should pick up everywhere. Your compression does seem a bit low for that cam they recommend about 9.75 or better.What heads are you running? What head gaskets? I know the site recommends a 2400 rpm converter but the designer himself said a 3000rpm stall is way better suited. For carb I would recommend a holley 750 vs. with quickfuel screw adjustable secondary box So you can fine tune it easily how you want. Dont worry about rappin out that cam I shift at 6200 with it in my vortec headed 400 but I have a th350for better gear spread.
 
patmckinneyracing said:
Let me get an honest opinion from you guys then. If I put in tubular control arms (fixed lowers, adjustable uppers) combined with a differential girdle cover, you think it would be worth slicks or drag radials?

with what power you are running i agree with the others to ditch the 9" Dorf axle, it will eat the power. I would get a good set of adjustable upper control arms and square stock lower arms with the girdle, plus a set of drag radials. i would get a comparable size tire in height as you have now but just as wide as you can get to fit on the rim and in the wheel well.

oh and the rear you have no is it a posi? since alot of the monte ss rears were not posi???

if you dont have a posi get a locker before the slicks
 
When I talked to Harold, the designer, over on teamchevelle, he said that anything higher that 9.5 compression would be too high for the cam I'm running. The heads I have are an old set of 882's with 2.02/1.60 valves and port work done. Head gaskets are just standard felpros, pretty thin. I have a 2500 stall in this 700r4 but am considering possibly later going to a 3000.

I just bought a diff girdle cover and a set of tubular control arms, adjustable uppers, with accomodations for the rear sway bar. Yes the rear end has the auburn posi from the factory and I already had the rear end rebuilt about 3 years ago with new Yukon Gears.
 
I would recommend a 750 Holley dp. Many say that this is too much for a 350 but you will be surprised by how it performs at WOT.

I would also recommend upping your stall. Somewhere around 3,000+ should give you better strip performance.

For upgrading the rear I sort of look at it as even if you beef up the 7.5", there is still a good chance it will break and then you're still going to need a new rearend. Also, there are many different options that you can take to upgrade. You can find a cheapish 8.5". There are 12-bolt A-body rears that bolt in with special upper control arms. Also, there are decently priced ways to upgrade to a 9". You can find a fair priced housing like:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Grand-Nat ... ,6587.html

http://www.quickperformance.com/Products/housings.htm

and can then find a center section from ebay, craigslist, a swap meet, local circle track racers/drag racer, etc. and brakes off a junkyard donor and all together spend ~1,500.

So, if you can swing it, I think that is your best option long term even if you're not making that much power now.
 
this is what i found for cfm calculation
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