Blazer question / gm question

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I wrote too much when I made the post. I was really just asking if I should try to get one of these blazer transmissions from a 96-00 but I was trying to eliminate the computer at same time b/c of security system & I don't like how the car has no temp gauge etc. I thought they are 700r4 w/o the computer but you all have clarified it's not. Also, there are plenty of 2wd blazer floating around why would I choose 4x4 trans for rebuild that doesnt make any sense...

I was not going to 'build' the trans myself anyway I was going to send it to a shop through someone else. I just said earlier in the post I dont have a garage right now - where would I build the trans anyway, outside?

Here is a pic of the car. I'm a little confused about the criticism over the 10w-30. I only mentioned the oil cap / viscosity bc I thought it'd help identify which specific setup I have right now. Are you guys really telling me this mechanic was dead wrong and I should have been using 5w30 the whole time? That would really make me mad if so...
The donor car was a 93 Brougham, it had the L05 not the Lt1.
352mz6a.jpg
 
pencero said:
I'm a little confused about the criticism over the 10w-30. I only mentioned the oil cap / viscosity bc I thought it'd help identify which specific setup I have right now. Are you guys really telling me this mechanic was dead wrong and I should have been using 5w30 the whole time? That would really make me mad if so...

Well that depends, are you trying to put it in the transmission? Because you said you "know" you have a 4l60E because it takes 10w30. Or are you tryin to say you "know" it has the 4l60E because the engine takes 10w30 instead of 5w30. Because whatever oil the engine takes does not dictate what transmission you have. Is there a TV/Detent cable going to the throttle body?

pencero said:
I bought 5w30 and went to top it off one day, and the new cap said 10w30 so I said 'Wtf?' to myself and called my mechanic right away to make sure it wasn't just a spare cap that he had put on there and I was ready to put the 5w30 in on that assumption and he said 'no that particular trans just happens to take 10w30'
pencero said:
*Btw, Yes my car originally had the 700r4 but was switched to 4l60e later and I'm sure bc it takes 10w30

See these two quotes really make it sound like you are putting oil in the transmission. Is that the case?
Now you still have said anything else about the "manual valave body" the original 700r4 supposedly had. What makes you think it had one? On another note, you don't need to ditch the computer to put in any antitheft devices or aftermarket guages.
 
The first S-10/S-15 Blazer/ Jimmy (aka the small SUV) to have the 4L60E was the 1993 model. The 83-92 Blazer/Jimmy had the THM-7004R from 83-89 and then the 700R4 was renamed 4L60 for the 1990 year. There is no change or difference between the 700R4 and the 4L60 other then the name which was changed simply to reflect GM's new naming scheme(4L60 means 4speed auto/Longitudinal/Torque Value(in this case 60)

The 4L60E is a different beast.

Can you take a pic of the engine

If the tech changed out the engine for a later 1993 engine for no reason then he is a idiot as there was no better engine or improved engine for the later model year in 1993. The TBI 350 V8 was the only engine and since GM was due to put the Corvette derived LT1 350 into the Roadmaster/Caprice/ Fleetwood starting in 1994 so they were not going to waste the time and money improving that 350 TBI

Unless the tech stuffed a LT1 engine in then that is cool since those suckers got some awesome power in them. The TBI(Throttle body injection) 350 would have have a plastic aircleaner over the intake which has V8 on it. The LT1 engine has no air cleaner over the intake and the intake looks like airport runway(for lack of a better descriptor) and is completely flat on the top

My guess is he took a TBI engine from a later 1993 model Fleetwood/Roadmaster/ Caprice and went to change the valve cover gaskets and reversed the valve covers which is why the oil cap is on the other side of the engine. The valve covers are interchangeable and the switching them around does not cause an engine issue(whether you pour oil into the left head or right head does not make a difference since the oil goes to the oil pan just as quick) the different oil cap might just be a GM TSB to add heavier oil to combat piston slap or something like that. or the former owner of the car lost the original and bought the wrong one.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vx-apMMMvo

theres the engine @ start for like 12 seconds
Its TBI

The 700r4 was the trans in the very first rwd fleetwoods that rolled off the assembly line - according to wikipedia. I think it shifted smoother before the swap, but I know the tech who did the swap w/ my dad was just trying to help me out and the 4l60e is supposed to hold up a long time. Now I started off this thread trying to figure out if I should work these totaled blazers angle but at this point I'm more concerned about the 10w30 vs 5w30 deal. When I spotted the new cap like I said I called the tech right away and he swore to me it was the cap that was on there when he did the swap, not one he had lying around the shop. Now that I've got you gm heads telling me otherwise I'm worried that I shouldn't have took his word. What can I do under the hood to just manually determine if so?

Btw, I'm not pouring oil down the atf area lol. I'm 24 yr old so pardon my miscommunication on that 1, but no I'm not that dumb.

Also I'm aware that I don't have to eliminate the computer to run some gauges. I would kind of prefer my electronics to be secondary anyway. I am not going to do all the work to make it so unless I can come up w parts to redo everything. It will be a long term project if so. There is no emission test here, so I was hoping to take advantage of that since I really don't use the car much anymore. I know to do the LT1 swap from the 94-on I need the computer, but I most likely won't be able to replace the engine & trans both so I was just looking at the trans only for right now; the engine runs well.

I am only trying to plan ahead, I have seen too many Roadmaster/Fleetwoods in town that won't shift out of 2nd gear and become 'around town cars' Im hoping for the best but plan for the worst know what I mean? If I have a trans being built or just finished on the side I should be able to put the car back in service fast if the unit ever fails thats all Im trying to do.
 
You can not replace a 700R4 with a 4L60E without having the computer and wiring that goes along with it. It will NOT shift.
Can you use a Blazer transmission (2wd 700R4) to replace yours? (Sorry I assumed 4x4. 2wds are pretty rare in my area.)
-Probably. A Caprice, Roadmaster, van or pickup would be a more appropriate swap.
Is there a big difference between 5w30 and 10w30?
-Not enough to matter. I would suggest 10w30 - especially if the engine has over 100K on it.
Should you start eliminating electronics and computer controlled functions on your car?
-I sure wouldn't. It will destroy any resale value and make it harder to diagnose/repair in the future. I would suggest keeping the factory functions intact. They are reliable systems.
 
Ya that /\. My biggest question is what transmission does it have now. Sorry I cant understand why having a different oil cap would lead you to believe it has a different transmission than original. Does it have a detent cable? I've asked before and you still havent answered. That video doesn't help since I cant see through the air cleaner. If it doesn't, i'd find a 4l60E especially since you say thet are so readily available to you, throw it in and be done with it. If it does then you need to find a 700r4, (you can't just throw in a 4l60E), then throw it end and again be done with it.
 
well I was just basing that it had a 700r4 first of all on the wikipedia article since mine is an early 93, and secondly bc it used to shift silky smooth but the new trans shifts heavy and reminds me of how my 98 Silverado shifted - or my dad's 98 durango shifts like that too which is cool for a truck but the caddy is so aerodynamic. W/ the trans throwing the occasional late shift I'd just assume the 700r4 bc it felt more Cadillac like before, as a matter of fact it was definitely a little faster before the trans swap. I'm not really going to rebuild for 'speed' per se (5,000 lb car lol) but performance I guess is a better word for it. I'm sure it's obvious to you guys that I should just get the convo w/ the dude who smashed his blazer over w/ cut to the chase and I could have it rebuilt and sitting in the car w/in like 2-3 months at a cost of less than $1,500 if I played my cards right - this is obvious to me too.

I think what you all are misunderstanding is that I got over the car when I put it up for sale bc I just assumed it would sell immediately and some dude like me w/ more money than me would buy it & get to work fixing all the little bs like a couple dents and the exhaust is starting to look rusty + time for a new undercoat etc. and I'd see it around town looking better than ever and feel good about letting it go, but I just can't believe it never sold... bc I really don't even drive it right now. I got a 'windows too tinted' ticket and I will absolutely not rip my tints off to please that cop I refuse bc plenty of other ppl w/ tints like mine didnt get bothered about it & still driving past my house every day so that's bs and I will not give the local police that pleasure. So the real reason I wanted the 700r4 instead and take out the computer was bc it'll be my 'if Chicago ever gets nuked' or an E.m.p. ever goes off car and it can sit there for all I care then and I'm just not going to drive it then and put some high octane + some sta-bil in it and I'll be one of the only people who gets away if that ever happens. That might sound ridiculous but IDK if you all heard about the super high radiation reading levels story in S. Michigan near the border of Indiana a few months back and the gov never gave an explanation for it but they had hundreds of helicopters and personel out there in suits and stuff doing big things. I heard some people couldn't get their cars started - but that's not even in the news story so ID if that is actually true, but all I know is if something like that happens again esp. closer to me I'm not going to just sit in a cloud of radiation bc my car doesnt work wtf I'd like to be able to get in my escape hatch and just leave the area until everything gets resolved since the gov not even being honest about their **** ups these days I don't trust them to evacuate me thats cool though I think a guy shouldn't depend on his gov if he can do for himself. Now the car wastes a lot of gas so yeah its kind of a stupid car for that purpose w/ only like 300 mi. range but it's better than nothing right?

Anyway I went way off topic. I probably can't afford to be doing all that extra stuff and might just get the 4L60E for the low and just have it sitting here for a sec til I make up my mind. I'll get a pic of the car wo the air cleaner on too, sry J R I'm not as knowledgeable as I should be I didn't even know what a detent cable actually is lol I'm so useless under the hood but I really appreciate you guys taking the time to give me detailed answers n help me out thats y I'm a member on here I appreciate it more than you guys probably think I do, Thanks for all this help! pic coming later
 
Need a good shot of the driver side of the throttle body.
 
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