Blocking off EGR ports? 350 Buick.

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I had a Poston 350 S-divider intake for sale several months back. I would have approached you about it, but I thought you were leaning towards using a stock cast iron 4-bbl intake.
I did have it listed for sale on the site with a pair of Poston aluminum valve covers.
I've since sold it all.
 
Dang. Oh well. Wouldn't have had the money for all that anyway, especially not now lol. And yeah I'm using a stock cast iron 4 barrel one I found here in Iowa.
 
I think you might be confusing the EFE crossover with EGR. That passageway is there to heat the underside of the carb so it gets to operating temp faster. It is absolutely necessary in the winter time for good fuel atomization. You get winter in Iowa, yes? IIRC, Buick used a passage in the intake manifold to route EGR gas to the intake ports. Where is your stock EGR valve located? At the rear of the intake? If so, just changing to the TA manifold will eliminate the EGR. Some early Buick EGR systems were weird. I had a '74 350 that had holes drilled in the heads and the intake, that passed EGR gas from the exhaust crossover to each individual intake port. I used those heads on a '68 350 so the holes had to be plugged.
 
I think you might be confusing the EFE crossover with EGR. That passageway is there to heat the underside of the carb so it gets to operating temp faster. It is absolutely necessary in the winter time for good fuel atomization. You get winter in Iowa, yes? IIRC, Buick used a passage in the intake manifold to route EGR gas to the intake ports. Where is your stock EGR valve located? At the rear of the intake? If so, just changing to the TA manifold will eliminate the EGR. Some early Buick EGR systems were weird. I had a '74 350 that had holes drilled in the heads and the intake, that passed EGR gas from the exhaust crossover to each individual intake port. I used those heads on a '68 350 so the holes had to be plugged.
Hmmm, I guess the holes can stay. No extra EGR holes i could see, and yeah the actual EGR valve sat in the back of the intake manifold.
 
Ummm, why do you want 10 to 1 compression? Do you have access to race gas? I had a '68 350 that came 10 to 1 stock and it pinged like crazy. That's why I swapped the '74 low compression 350 motor into my '68 LeSabre. It ran great on whatever was cheapest. It was a 2 barrel motor so that's why I had to swap the '68 intake over so I could use the stock Q-jet. (forget what I said before- I only swapped the '68 4 barrel intake and that's why I had to plug the EGR holes in the '74 heads. I have CRS- can't remember sh*t). Buick adjusted compression by dishing the pistons. The heads don't change anything. And being an under-square motor (more stroke than bore) it makes gobs of torque in the lower rpm range. That is why the intake is designed the way it is, not for high rpm. If you really want to wake that Buick up- change the rear end to better gears and hang on.
 
Hmmh, my big block runs fine on 92 at 10/1. I am running Edelbrock Aluminum heads on it but it actually runs fine on 91, I just run 92.
 
The 1970 Thunderbird I had with the 429 with 11:1 compression and I ran it on 87 octane and it never pinged or knocked or detonated or anything. I might try and shoot for 9.5 or 9:1 or something more reasonable. Compression is easy power.
 
All motors are different, and the combustion chamber shape, piston dome shape, cam profile, timing, etc, all determine what octane is required for non-detonation operation. Hot Rod magazine did an exhaustive series of articles all about how to build a high compression motor that will live on today's gas. Unless you are going to enlist the services of a professional engine builder/machinist who knows what he is doing, I doubt you could do what they did. As a general rule, aluminum heads can stand a couple of points more compression because they dissipate heat much better than cast iron. Also know that back during the horsepower wars the factories were a bit over generous when it came to advertised compression ratio and horsepower. What I do know is that a stock 1968 Buick 350 could not handle the cat piss gas available in the 90's. The advertised compression was 10.25 to1. Timing for that motor was zero degrees before TDC. I got best performance by hooking the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum so that the timing went away under acceleration. It still pinged so I changed motors. All I am saying is that once you build your expensive motor, there is no going back cheaply. Right now you have a low compression motor that will run on whatever gas is available, anywhere. It will respond to all the traditional hot rod tricks such as timing advance, carburation, and exhaust modifications. Most importantly, the Buick 350 is a low rpm torque monster. Better to capitalize on that than to waste money trying to make it do what it wasn't designed for.
 
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