Thanks Nick. It’s f n freezing out no garage. That’s a bitcg!! On my way to Fla. providing we don’t get hit with a storm when I arrive home. I will check it out!!
Thanks for all Dez
Thanks for all Dez
Hey Nick! The blower motor is out of the car cleaning as I speak!! Well it was made in Canada!!
So how do we feel about that?
Also when you put it back in the fiber casing??? I noticed silicon glue. Do you recommend a gasket maker or ?? Thanks Dez
PreCovid one of the biggest parts manufacturers for automotive parts in Canada was Magna International. it is/was fairly probable that your blower motor either was made by them as an OEM accepted replacement, or they assembled it and many like it for shipment to the assembly plants in Oshawa and Norwalk, Ohio for first assembly install,.
As for the need to add a gasket, No I don't think so. Any blower motor that I have ever personally dealt with basically just came out when you disconnected the battery and the power and ground wires, and then installation was the reverse of whatever you did to remove it. I did take a peek at the OPGI catalogue they don't show a gasket with their options for that motor.
I would tend to be more concerned about the condition of the flange to which the motor is secured. The heater box is not metal, more sort of a fibre re-inforced composite and it can break from abuse or UV deterioration. Damage can be repairee and there is a two part powder/activator that when used will fuse a damaged piece back to the parent part. It is called "Q-Bond" and you can check it out at www.qbond.net. It is also useful for filling in attaching holes if the screw has wallowed out the threads or if you had to extract a broken screw and damaged the threads when you did it.
As a suggestion, I might give some thought to using a vacuum with a skinny nozzle on it and vacuum out the heater box. Also as a while you're there, in what shape is the heater core?
Nick
As for the need to add a gasket, No I don't think so. Any blower motor that I have ever personally dealt with basically just came out when you disconnected the battery and the power and ground wires, and then installation was the reverse of whatever you did to remove it. I did take a peek at the OPGI catalogue they don't show a gasket with their options for that motor.
I would tend to be more concerned about the condition of the flange to which the motor is secured. The heater box is not metal, more sort of a fibre re-inforced composite and it can break from abuse or UV deterioration. Damage can be repairee and there is a two part powder/activator that when used will fuse a damaged piece back to the parent part. It is called "Q-Bond" and you can check it out at www.qbond.net. It is also useful for filling in attaching holes if the screw has wallowed out the threads or if you had to extract a broken screw and damaged the threads when you did it.
As a suggestion, I might give some thought to using a vacuum with a skinny nozzle on it and vacuum out the heater box. Also as a while you're there, in what shape is the heater core?
Nick
Hey thanks , I can always count on you for a proper answer . Yes the fiber is a bit
Soft around the threads …. I will get the Q-Bond and get that secured!! Funny how this was on the top of my mind as you mentioned it . I’m looking for the power wire clip as that has cracked in half.
I can’t seem to find one in my tool box.
Do you know the proper name for this as I hood replacement would not hurt. I have also looked around for blower motor wire etc they are not showing like the one on the car ?
Here’s a link to the video
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Going to be a disappointment to you here as I don't apple anything and I-cloud and I are not on electronic speaking terms. As for the electrical connector, any G-Body hulk in a nearby salvage yard ought to have the harness for the motor still resident. Of course there is always the yard guy who is fast on the draw with his/her side cutters or box cutter knife.
As me swagging it here, maybe
or
if this is what you are looking for.
If you do happen to go the yard route and get one that has been clipped, the wires with their connector ends can be slipped out of the shell or connector body if you use a fine tip removal tool like is used for the metripack generation of connectors. Check an electonics or tool shop for them. After that, the end itself ought to be just a spade female but do be aware that the generic version of that end may or may not work and that electronics shop you buy the tool at ought to have the correct version of the ends as well. Bought mine by the dozen in a roll.
Nick
As me swagging it here, maybe
HVAC Blower Motor Connector For 1977-1981 Chevy Malibu 1978 1979 1980 X442MP | eBay
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www.googleadservices.com
or
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www.stockwiseauto.com
if this is what you are looking for.
If you do happen to go the yard route and get one that has been clipped, the wires with their connector ends can be slipped out of the shell or connector body if you use a fine tip removal tool like is used for the metripack generation of connectors. Check an electonics or tool shop for them. After that, the end itself ought to be just a spade female but do be aware that the generic version of that end may or may not work and that electronics shop you buy the tool at ought to have the correct version of the ends as well. Bought mine by the dozen in a roll.
Nick
Great again. As we are expected a snow storm 🌨️ ugh. I will get on it. Thanks for the advice. Your great!! DezGoing to be a disappointment to you here as I don't apple anything and I-cloud and I are not on electronic speaking terms. As for the electrical connector, any G-Body hulk in a nearby salvage yard ought to have the harness for the motor still resident. Of course there is always the yard guy who is fast on the draw with his/her side cutters or box cutter knife.
As me swagging it here, maybe
HVAC Blower Motor Connector For 1977-1981 Chevy Malibu 1978 1979 1980 X442MP | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HVAC Blower Motor Connector For 1977-1981 Chevy Malibu 1978 1979 1980 X442MP at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.googleadservices.com
or
Loading…
www.stockwiseauto.com
if this is what you are looking for.
If you do happen to go the yard route and get one that has been clipped, the wires with their connector ends can be slipped out of the shell or connector body if you use a fine tip removal tool like is used for the metripack generation of connectors. Check an electonics or tool shop for them. After that, the end itself ought to be just a spade female but do be aware that the generic version of that end may or may not work and that electronics shop you buy the tool at ought to have the correct version of the ends as well. Bought mine by the dozen in a roll.
Nick
